tach drive/ PS filter chg.

445A · May 5, 2016

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My father in law got the Ford 445A running, finished up the grading, and decided to give me the tractor. Had it shipped on a flat bed trailer from Idaho to central valley of California. I am repairing and servicing everything that needs attention. The short tach drive cable was twisted in half. (The long cable was crimped and also got replaced.) The first 2 pictures are showing the angle that the short cable runs at. (I believe.) I need to get the other broken part of the short cable out so the new one will go into the drive. I can't get my head in close enough to see the place it goes in. I don't see how the aluminum piece comes off to access the lower guts. Do I need to remove the oil pan and pump to get to it?
The last 2 pictures are the power steering pump assy. There is a filter inside of the can/reservoir just under the fill cap. Which line is pressure and which is return? Also can I take the line on the reservoir side off, and then drop the can, or does the whole thing need to come off by removing the cover in the front of the pump. I should drop the $350 for a repair manual, but the parts man at the dealership said it may not even be available anymore. (1986 Ford 445A) Any answers, ideas, comments, or even jokes are appreciated :thumbs up:.:laughing::confused2

joecdeere · May 6, 2016

for the power steering -

445A · May 6, 2016

joecdeere:
Thanks for the information, (with pictures). I couldn't find anything on Google and the service manual I have is for the C series, not the A, but has no info on the power steering, under hydraulics or steering. I really admire your collection of old iron. You must spend a bunch of time locating parts for those vintages! Thanks again for your time to help me out.:thumbsup:

445A · May 10, 2016

DO YOU GET FRUSTRATED WITH NON CONCLUSIVE POSTS? Ain't gunna happen here. joecdeere helped me with the first half and after a weekend, I decided to visit my Ford/ New Holland service department. I told them it was a 1986 Ford 445a. Neither of them said a word. So I looked the older one right in the eyes and said "Come on, put on your thinking cap. 30 years ago you probably worked on a bunch of these!" I asked my questions and between the both of them, were answered thoroughly. Sooo, here we go. The aluminum piece can be removed from the top. Pick out the rubber s4s o ring. Then push down on the alum. and it will get loose and may be pulled out. The broke off part of the tach drive cable was below the surface. Pick and magnet attempts all failed. Went to Ace, bought a #4 x 1 1/2" wood screw. Screw it into the end of the cable tightly, then unscrew it until it gets easy. now put some sideways bind on the screw and pull out the part being careful not to drop it inside the engine. Install the new short cable into the tach drive cap/housing. This assembly uses a taper lock to secure it. The aluminum piece has a 45 and so does the split steel ring. As downward pressure increases the steel ring expands and locks into the engine. Now the tricky part. Put the steel ring on the alum. PUT THE ORING ON NOW! Unless you want to do it twice, too. :duh: Fish the short cable through the alum. With the whole assembly complete, hold it at an angle to start the cable into the tach drive gear. Once the cable starts in let the alum. and steel drop down into the engine bore. I was able to reuse my o ring and had previously noticed a bump on it. this goes down and seats in the steel ring gap. Chase it down to the steel ring, a pain because the cap/housing keeps wanting to install itself. Gravity. Index the alum. and the cap, drop the bolt in the hole , push down while tightening. Install long tach cable to the cap and reinstall oil filter. Done. :thumbsup: It's beer thirty! :drink: Thanks to Mike at Garton Tractor in Stockton Ca. and yes I did call him and thank him personally.