tapping in to power beyond

[case685]

Hi I have small tractor that I plan to hook a front blade hyd. valve to. I want to tap into this valve's power beyond to add a valve to run a hyd. toplink and then hook into the second valve's PB to run a log splitter valve.
Is this a good way to do this or will I lose strength/flow by by time it gets to the last valve. Thanks. Gerry

 

[RickB]

Hi I have small tractor that I plan to hook a front blade hyd. valve to. I want to tap into this valve's power beyond to add a valve to run a hyd. toplink and then hook into the second valve's PB to run a log splitter valve.
Is this a good way to do this or will I lose strength/flow by by time it gets to the last valve. Thanks. Gerry

Given the limited information you provide, the flow diagram you outline will work so long as each valve is set up as a power beyond valve and all valves are connected in series with only the tank returns in parallel. In general "small" tractors have insufficient hydraulic flow to efficiently run a log splitter with the typical 4" diameter cylinder.

 

[case685]

Rick, thanks for the reply. In searching the this forum I did read about the drawbacks of using the tractor hydraulics to run a splitter. I thought I would try it and if its too slow I could always add a PTO pump later. Gerry

 

[3RRL]

Rick said it as simply as I've ever heard it and like he said, your set up will work like that.
His point about running the tank returns parallel means you can "T" into the them if that makes your hose connections easier. In other words, all the valves tank returns can be hooked up to the same return to tank or sump line. If you have a lot of valves, a manifold to receive all the return to sump lines for ease of connection and reduction of hose routing would be good. Especially if the valves are in fairly close proximity.

You should not lose any power on the valves down the line except perhaps a tiny amount due to minor restrictions flowing from valve to valve, but for all practical purposes, it is immeasurable. The flow required to run a log splitter is just that...if your tractor makes enough that's great. Otherwise the splitter will just run slower than optimum speed. Your force or power will be the same though, determined by your tractor's hydraulic psi.

 

[case685]

Rob, thanks for clearing up the return line situation. After reading Rick's post I did start wondering about the best way to run them. I've also been considering what cylinder to use- I have a couple on hand, one is 32" stroke with a 2.5" bore and a 1.375" shaft ( its the one I'd like to use, it came off an old loader). The other one is 20" stroke with a 3.5" bore and a 2.5" shaft ( but its one of a pair and was hoping to save it for another project ). I guess I should ask this: does a cylinder have to reach the end of its stroke for a logsplitter(kick-off) valve to work properly?

 

[RickB]

2.5" bore will come up quite short on splitting force given a typical 2200-2800 PSI system. More typical to see 4" bore on log splitters.

 

[3RRL]

Rob, thanks for clearing up the return line situation. After reading Rick's post I did start wondering about the best way to run them. I've also been considering what cylinder to use- I have a couple on hand, one is 32" stroke with a 2.5" bore and a 1.375" shaft ( its the one I'd like to use, it came off an old loader). The other one is 20" stroke with a 3.5" bore and a 2.5" shaft ( but its one of a pair and was hoping to save it for another project ). I guess I should ask this: does a cylinder have to reach the end of its stroke for a logsplitter(kick-off) valve to work properly?

Not sure how the kick off works. I just bought one but haven't put it together yet. What is the psi on your hydraulics? You can calculate the tonnage exerted from those cylinders you listed. For example, the 3.5" bore cylinder could produce over 11.5 tons if you have a 2400psi system. Is that enough for your needs?

 

[case685]

Rob I don't know my tractor hydraulics psi, I'm not too sure about the gpm either since its a grey market (Kubota L2402). I honestly have no idea how much splitting force I need. I have no problem with splitting the lighter stuff by hand, I'm just getting tired of doing battle with the big stuff. As a result I figured I didn't need a fast splitter but if larger bore means more splitting force then I guess I would be wise to look for a 4" bore cylinder. Gerry

 

[wedge40]

Rob I don't know my tractor hydraulics psi, I'm not too sure about the gpm either since its a grey market (Kubota L2402). I honestly have no idea how much splitting force I need. I have no problem with splitting the lighter stuff by hand, I'm just getting tired of doing battle with the big stuff. As a result I figured I didn't need a fast splitter but if larger bore means more splitting force then I guess I would be wise to look for a 4" bore cylinder. Gerry

For hydraulic supplies I look at surpluscenter first. Burden Sales Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More

Wedge

 

[dfkrug]

Rob I don't know my tractor hydraulics psi, I'm not too sure about the gpm either since its a grey market (Kubota L2402). I honestly have no idea how much splitting force I need. I have no problem with splitting the lighter stuff by hand, I'm just getting tired of doing battle with the big stuff. As a result I figured I didn't need a fast splitter but if larger bore means more splitting force then I guess I would be wise to look for a 4" bore cylinder. Gerry

I do not know your grey mkt Kub model, but I suspect it delivers at best 5-6GPM at 2000psi at full RPM.

I have a log splitter valve that I am trying to repair and it is the detented type that causes the handle to spring out of detent when it goes to relief. That happens at end of stroke or when the log round is too tough.

BTW a complete replacement cyl for this larger Harbor Fright log splitter is only $150 from their parts dept. 4.6" ID as I recall.