3-Point Hitch TC - 3 point hitch

marty · Nov 11, 2000

Has anyone ever used a hydraulic ram as the top - three point hitch? I was thinking that this would be a good way to quickly adjust the box scraper - any thoughts!!

Bird · Nov 11, 2000

Marty, search for hydraulic top link; lots of folks are using them (and I will too when I have a little spare money to do it). There's been a great deal of discussion in the past about them, so you should find even more than you want to read.

Bird

Anonymous Poster · Nov 11, 2000

YES MARTY, I HAVE ONE. IT IS GREAT FOR ADJUSTING A BOX SCRAPER. ALSO....WHEN I USE IT ON MY BUSHHOG I CAN RAISE THE REAR END HIGH ENOUGH TO SHARPEN THE BLADES. ALSO WORKS ON 3PT FINISHING MOWER. WE HAVE A POST DRIVER. IT WORKS GREAT ALIGNING THE POST SQUARE TO GROUND. IT IS ALSO A GREAT ASSIST IN HOOKING UP EQUIPMENT. YOU CAN ADJUST THE LENGTH INSTEAD OF HAVING TO MOVE THE EQUIPMENT.

marty · Nov 11, 2000

Is the hydraulic top link a dealer item or is it cheaper to get it from a hyraulic shop? What size ram is needed for a TC 33D?

TomG · Nov 12, 2000

To Bird's note, I'll add that MarkC posted a detailed description of cylinder dimensions etc.. A dealer should be able to come up with a package, but if you want to do it yourself, Mark's post should give you enough details.

I'll also add that I don't consider a hydraulic top link 'useful' with a box scraper, I consider them almost indispensable. For example, you want to move material from a high to a low spot. You shorten the link so the scraper cuts and pick up a box of material, lengthen it a bit so the cut is fairly neutral and drag the material to a low spot, and then lengthen it some more to spread the material. It's an incredible pain if you can't do that on the fly with a hydraulic link.

Bird · Nov 12, 2000

Marty, you ought to ask your dealer about them, although I've found that most dealers in my area don't have or know much about them. Tisco has a category I top link, part number HTL2102; 20 inch retracted length and an 8 inch stroke, Baileynet.com has a couple of category II top links listed on their site, or you can buy a double acting hydraulic cylinder and add the category I ends to it (whoever does that better know what he's doing to weld it strong enough, not damage seals in the cylinder, etc.). But then of course, if you don't already have hydraulic couplings at the back of the tractor, you'll need a valve and hoses. There are kits available for some of the bigger tractors, but so far I haven't found such for the smaller ones like we have.

Bird

JATO_RaT · Nov 12, 2000

TomG, isn't that the truth regarding the top link. When I started reading your response and it said you did not find the top link useful I was about to call you the most naive (stupid even) person on this board, reading further and you said you find it indispensable I quickly realized the error in my thinking, please excuse my judgemental thoughts (albeit short lived) without having read the whole story, I was wrong and for that I apologize. If I had to have a choice between top or tilt, I would choose top link adjustment first. Of course both are wonderful. Once you have the ability to hydraulicly control your boxscrapers angles of cut, it becomes an incredible tool and not just ballast for the loader. Sincerely, Rat...

marty · Nov 12, 2000

Tom,
Thanks for the advice and where could I find the Mark C message regarding cylinder dementions?

Bird · Nov 12, 2000

Marty, as for the size of cylinders, that depends on the tractor. You need to measure your current top link adjusted as short as it'll get and as long as it'll get. The difference will tell you how long a stroke you need.

I think you can find some of Mark's discussion (or reply to me) at http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.pl?1339/2001 and in that same thread there was a message by RobertN that he had seen a B20 with tip and tilt that used Gannon "Power Link" cylinders; top link part #13-1046 and side link part #13-1056.

In fact, you probably ought to just read that entire thread and that may get you the information you want. I had intended to only go with a hydraulic top link, which would be cheaper and less trouble to mount since you can use a single spool valve, but have decided to wait until I can do both tip and tilt.

Bird