TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem

   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem #1  

duckfarmer27

New member
Joined
Jun 28, 2006
Messages
9
Bear with me on this long epistle. 2004 machine with 700 hours.

Saturday before Easter I did a hundred hour service. Had taken the loader off, when done went out to hook it back up. Turned off tractor but was not quite close enough to hook up hoses - went to start it, heard starter solenoid click and nothing. Totally dead electrically - not even the four way flashers would work.

Dug out the repair manuals and started going through things. This was after doing the obvious checking of battery and ground connections. Analysis led me to test the operator safety module. Using the test procedure in the NH manual it tested bad. Was doubting things a bit, as this component should have no impact whatsoever on the four way flashers. Went and discussed with dealer I bought machine from back in 2005 (who is no longer a NH dealer but does get parts for me - real good guys). Since the safety module tested bad ordered one. Installed it and tried the 4 ways - they worked. So tried starter. Solenoid clicked and then nothing.

In testing the new safety module it is defective per the manual - but as I will note later it works. I believe the NH manual has an error in that test procedure. Once I get this thing solved I will be contacting NH concerning that - and some labeling errors in the manual schematic.

Could only work on the machine sporadically. Basically tore apart the entire electrical system tracing things out. Tested every relay, etc. Wrung out every wire. Was getting what appeared to be intermittent results. At that point realized the ignition switch had a problem from time to time. After reading on here about switch problems, popped apart the switch. Design is what I would expect in a garden tractor from Lowes, so that will get replaced. To continue testing have used jumper and starter switch. My best friend was amused with my problem so has helped for a couple days. We are both retired engineers - and he has more electrical trouble shooting experience than me. It has us stumped.

I have separated the wiring loom enough to verify that the splices in the harness under the steering wheel look good. Yesterday we were wondering if perhaps the starter solenoid could have an internal problem. Was still an intermittent problem with low voltage. Removed the starter and the battery, went to the local rebuild shop. Both test out fine. So continued trying to trace wiring, thinking the problem might be some bad connection. Jumpered ground wire lug attached to starter stud directly to battery to make sure good ground, no change in status,

Here is current status. I have disconnected the headlight harness, fuel shut off solenoid wire and glow plug wire in the main harness. Thinking we might have a high impedance in the positive battery cable, dropped the alternator cable out. Then disconnected the plug for the two wires going to the main fuse and pulled the cable off the battery. In testing the cable from starter lug to battery terminal got a reading of .1 ohm, so OK. At this point I hooked the battery cable back up. But then wired directly from battery to the connector for the main fuse. All relays and diodes installed. With ignition set to on getting 12.3 volts all places on the fuse block as well as the starter lug. Closing ignition switch (and holding it closed) picks the starter solenoid - the starter does not engage and the voltage at the starter lug drops to .4 volts. After about 2 seconds the PTO Safety Relay unlatches, dropping the solenoid. Releasing the starter switch allows things to reset and can then be repeated.

At that point I reconnected the connector going to the main fuse and tried the process again. When jumpering the ignition switch to on, nothing happened. Voltage was low, about 4 volts - and then climbed as if a capacitor was charging, taking a good long time to get up to the 12.3 volts.

Maybe we are missing something, but this has us stumped but good. Thanks for any ideas on what the issue might be.

Dale
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem #2  
Where was your negative lead of your DMM connected to during the tests? Also did you verify the 12v on both terminals on the starter dropping down to 4V? To me, if the high current line from the starter to the battery goes down to 4V, then you have a ground or a positive issue closer to the battery. Maybe that inline main fuse is bad. Jump the starter with a screwdriver or jumper wire, in order to force it on. If that doesn't yield nothing put a set of booster cables from the starter direct to the battery and force the starter on again with a jumper wire etc.
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Where was your negative lead of your DMM connected to during the tests? Also did you verify the 12v on both terminals on the starter dropping down to 4V? To me, if the high current line from the starter to the battery goes down to 4V, then you have a ground or a positive issue closer to the battery. Maybe that inline main fuse is bad. Jump the starter with a screwdriver or jumper wire, in order to force it on. If that doesn't yield nothing put a set of booster cables from the starter direct to the battery and force the starter on again with a jumper wire etc.
1. Negative lead was to battery post.
2. Only took reading on the big lug; other had to have the 12V to pick the solenoid, then when the PTO relay dropped the solenoid released also so would think they had the same .4V (not 4 V)
3. Agree that one would think bad cable or ground. Cables look fine, no swelling, etc. Not saying it might not be the issue but does not look or test like it is.
4. Starter is only thing on the cable from battery. Alternator connection removed and connector to main fuse disconnected. I then jumpered to the other side of the connector to power the main fuse and on to the switch, fuses, etc.
5. About only thing left to do is a hard jumper to the starter - but almost impossible to reach due to loader mount. But about only thing left to do.

Thanks for the input.

Dale
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem #4  
Did you remove the ground cable from the frame and clean the connection there? I have had some problems there before.
Gary
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Did you remove the ground cable from the frame and clean the connection there? I have had some problems there before.
Gary

Gary -

Yep, first thing I did was clean all cable ends/posts. It was bright and shiny when I took it apart but it got cleaned anyway.

Thanks.

Dale
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Well, went out this morning and rigged up a connection system to bypass the cable from battery to starter. Was a bit of a challenge with the location of the main lug on the starter. Engine turned over fine. So I removed the cable - cleaned connections and tried it again, from the outside. Same errors as before. So I started cutting off the shrink sleeve, etc. Construction of the cable is with a crimp on the main lug to starter connection, three wires coming out of that. Two feed the main fuse and one goes to alternator output. Process appears to be soldering in addition to the crimp - and the solder job looks like a cold joint. Maybe I'll cut that joint apart later to see if it is that or perhaps contamination. Right now have to worry about tonight's birthday party for a certain 7 year old granddaughter, which is more important! In any event the cable is bad. So went to dealer and ordered a new one.

Dale

Dale
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem #7  
Glad to hear you found the issue.
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Just to further document things a bit - here are pictures of where I think the problem was.

With everything back running fine, did a little investigating of the bad cable. As previously mentioned, I was suspicious of the end going to the starter. Appeared to be a possible cold solder joint. So cut off the lug, then spit the lug. Also 'unstranded' some of the cable. The interior of the cable exhibits greenish corrosion, along with some red dots. Solder does not look right to my eye. I'm going to guess problem was some contamination that through time deteriorated to where it was a high resistance path. Not exactly my area of expertise - I'm a retired mechanical engineer/manager who did military printed wiring product and system integration - manufacturing engineering basically. If still working I could have gotten some experts to look at it, but will have to settle for my own guess at this point.

Cell phone pictures not the best overall, but you can see the problem I believe.

Might be of use to someone else in the future.

Dale

Bad Cable 1.JPGBad Cable 2.JPGBad Cable 3.JPG
 
   / TC-35DA Dead With Electrical Problem #9  
That is exactly what happen to my friend's TC35. He was buying new starters, and we cleaned every connection to the safety interlocks one morning also. He finally traced it to the bad battery cable crimp/solder job from the factory. Go figure.
 

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