TC34DA -- PTO won't disengage

amarlow · May 30, 2013

Thank you, Jinman. I would say "yes, engagement lever pivot points lubricated!" except I did not disassemble the lever, but simply sprayed with Fluid Film. good stuff, usually penetrates well, but based on what you say, I couldn't guarantee it made it down to the shaft. I'll do a better job of that this weekend.

What I wonder, though, is could a gummed up, somewhat corroded pivot or shaft be the direct, primary cause of a splined coupling or gear or shaft NOT coming apart, NOT becoming completely disengaged.

So, I will pursue. And when I know, and have repaired, I will report back, so as to spread the love (of tractors, via the net).

Again, thanks everyone.

~Allen

jinman · May 31, 2013

Allen, if you disconnect the link to the transmission, you should be able to move the lever and gage whether it is binding or not. If it is still stiff, the tranny ain't your problem. If it is loose, keep investigating the tranny. BTW: The levers we have can bend easily and then never work properly. For example, if you go to disengage and pull too hard on the lever, it bends. Then, when you do finally get it to move, it hits the end of cutout before it has rotated the shaft far enough inside the transmission. Of course, when you go to engage the lever, it would not travel all the way to the other end of the slot as normal. See what I mean?

amarlow · May 31, 2013

Jim, I think I may have already (effectively) done the "binding or not" test. In my original post, I mentioned I had adjusted the length of the lower linkage arm (#19 in your diagram) by moving the threaded yoke (#27) up and down the arm a few threads each way, then reassembling and testing. While doing this, I "dropped" the upper lever arm (#17) a few times, then picked it up and moved it to realign the pin (#24) that connects the two arms. The upper lever arm moved very freely and smoothly.

When I first read your "disconnect the link" suggestion, I thought, "Yeah! Maybe it's just a binding lever pivot. Hey, this sounds like a good idea. Easy to test, I already know how. Have done it, even. And I wiggled the lever then..... Wait..... Dang!"

Yes, I understand how a bent lever can affect proper movement (range of motion) in the cutout. But wouldn't that be corrected by the threaded yoke adjustment?

If it is the transmission, then I am at a loss. I just don't have enough knowledge re. how to "investigate the tranny," what things I could wiggle, knobs I could turn, noises to listen for.

Last thing, one specific question: if the PTO is "engaged" (because I am not able to "disengage" it), and I put the parking brake on, and shift the HST into Neutral, then turn off the ignition.... can I re-start the engine if I push in the clutch? What I'm wondering is: can I use the mower deck over the weekend, turning the tractor on and off now and then as described, so I can get my hip deep grass cut. Then I could take the tractor to the dealer down in Toledo next week. That make sense?

Thanks again,
~Allen

jinman · May 31, 2013

Allen, I just don't know your PTO engaged safety logic. This is where you need somebody to help who has a similar tractor or a manual downloaded from the site I sent you. Operating your tractor without a manual is just asking for more trouble. They really are invaluable and most of them even have a very good electrical schematic so you don't have to buy a repair manual to troubleshoot.

amarlow · Jun 1, 2013

Jim, I do own a copy of the Operator's Manual; I just didn't have it with me at work yesterday afternoon, when I wrote my last post. You are right, it's well written and very helpful. It states clearly --> "Both the rear PTO and mid PTO must be disengaged to start the tractor engine."

It has been raining here for a few days, with a long, noisy thunderstorm overnight. I'm headed out to the property as soon as it dries up a bit. I have a couple more ideas to try. I'll keep you posted. (I'm afraid the grass is going to be hip deep by now.)

~Allen