tc35 safe degree of tilt?
- Thread starter Parfleche
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daTeacha
Veteran Member
According to the Goodyear Farm Tire Handbook, any tilt of more than about 11 degrees, about 20% grade, is something of concern for farm machinery. That's not to say that you'll roll at 12 degrees, but that you should be extra cautious. Unlike a riding mower, using your body as a counter weight is basically useless on a tractor since it's so much heavier than you are. This is a much discussed topic here, so you might want to use the search feature to see several hundred posts on the topic.
There is no hard and fast rule due to so many variables. If you're near the rollover point, something like a rock or log on the high side or a groundhog hole on the low side can put you beyond the point of no return.
If you will consistently have the same side low, Goodyear suggests putting an extra 4 lb. of air pressure on the low side of a "hillside combine". You could also hang a counterweight on the high side, put something wide on the 3 point hitch, widen your wheel spacing if possible, add weight low, etc. Unfortunately, our little compacts have a high roll center and high center of gravity. They will easily go up slopes that, in traverse, will cause them to roll over. A basic rule is to avoid crossing slopes if possible. If you have to cross them, be slow, carry things low, and pay close attention to how firmly the wheels seem to be in contact with the ground on the high side. If the uphill rear starts spinning, you are on the verge of rolling, so back off.
There is no hard and fast rule due to so many variables. If you're near the rollover point, something like a rock or log on the high side or a groundhog hole on the low side can put you beyond the point of no return.
If you will consistently have the same side low, Goodyear suggests putting an extra 4 lb. of air pressure on the low side of a "hillside combine". You could also hang a counterweight on the high side, put something wide on the 3 point hitch, widen your wheel spacing if possible, add weight low, etc. Unfortunately, our little compacts have a high roll center and high center of gravity. They will easily go up slopes that, in traverse, will cause them to roll over. A basic rule is to avoid crossing slopes if possible. If you have to cross them, be slow, carry things low, and pay close attention to how firmly the wheels seem to be in contact with the ground on the high side. If the uphill rear starts spinning, you are on the verge of rolling, so back off.
jbrumberg
Elite Member
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Parfleche: Welcome to TBN. I purchased a Lev-O-Gage clinonmeter from West Marine for ~$12.00 and mounted it to one of the FEL upright mounts on my NH TC29DA. I works pretty well; and gives a relatively "objective" measure of "pucker power". Roll overs when they occur happen rapidly (the gauge won't help)- I saw a fork lift roll when its over-raised load ran over a small rock. Be careful and listen to daTeacher! Jay
Mosey
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- Conifer, Colorado
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- 2000 New Holland TC29D with 7308 FEL, and top & tilt. 1950 John Deere B. 1940 Farmall A.
I drive on a side hill of a about 20 degrees all the time when I'm mowing. I don't like it! The tractor will slide sideways if the ground is real wet or if it's real dry and hardpacked (so the tires can't dig into the ground at all and get traction). I don't worry about tipping at 20 degrees, but I worry about sliding sideways and then hitting a hole or bump, then tipping from the sudden stop. If over 20 degrees, I go straight up and down.
jbrumberg
Elite Member
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Parfleche: I agree with Mosey as to the 20 degree angle when traversing slopes. Because of the possibility of sliding and tipping for all the reasons Danny stated I tend to go up and down my slope whenever possible when mowing due to the unevenness of my terrain. I am an even bigger chicken moving material in my FEL on my property (~10 degrees). Mow slow and keep your FEL low 
. Jay
. Jaydrm
Silver Member
Safe is relative and depends on tractor, equipment, speed, surface, etc. For me finish mowing with a TC33DA with wheels dished out and tires filled half way +/- I can travel in mid range up to 10 degrees and feel good, 15 degrees and I am moving a lot slower. I use a MMM and take off the loader to keep the CG as low as possible. I can go to 20 degrees crawling with FWD engaged if the ground surface is absolutely even with enough but not too much moisture for traction. I am very nervous at that slope but some areas this is the only way to go. If conditions are not right I will skip those areas. If I can I back up slopes over 15 degrees for mowing.
I had a neighbor, whose family farms our land and a couple of hundred acres more, mow for me while we were on vacation. This is a guy that grew up on farm equipment and has a 100 times more experience. Some of the steepest areas of our land I have been on with a 4x4 truck and been nervous and they farm it. He used my machine and cross mowed (at an upward angle and across I believe) areas that are a bit over 20 degrees maybe 25 degrees. The one hill I will slide down going up and down if I forget to engage FWD and the grass is wet or too dry.
I DO NOT recommend trying this just wanted to point out that what scares the crap out of me is within the limits of an experienced operator with a properly equipped machine. When I spoke to him about it he felt that using his body weight on the up hill side helped and he did go slowly. I have since tried to mow the 20 degree areas that I dislike and practically sat on the up hill fender, with the belt buckled, and leaning up hill and at least felt better. I still crawl and use FWD and know every bump in this area. It may have been a false sense of security but it felt better.
With a loader be sure to use a ballast weight on the TPH and keep the bucket just above the ground. I limit loader work to the flatter areas and pay extra attention to obstacles. I have teetered on slopes less than 10 degrees when I have run a rear tire over some dumped material I was moving. I would not try to move anything on slopes anywhere near 15 degrees but that is me.
With the brush hog use front weights or a loader to balance it and use the same precautions as above. I have the most amount of time with the mower and next the loader and finally the brush hog. The balance of each of my implements is totally different and requires differing limits and operating procedures. I try to utilize patience, practice and caution for each of these as I learn them.
If you have not yet dishing out your wheel and loading your tires will help with stability. Admittedly I am still a rookie but trying to learn the limits of my machine on a relatively sloped plot of land. Be safe and if it does not feel good then back off. There is a reason we pucker up – to keep our butts safe.
I had a neighbor, whose family farms our land and a couple of hundred acres more, mow for me while we were on vacation. This is a guy that grew up on farm equipment and has a 100 times more experience. Some of the steepest areas of our land I have been on with a 4x4 truck and been nervous and they farm it. He used my machine and cross mowed (at an upward angle and across I believe) areas that are a bit over 20 degrees maybe 25 degrees. The one hill I will slide down going up and down if I forget to engage FWD and the grass is wet or too dry.
I DO NOT recommend trying this just wanted to point out that what scares the crap out of me is within the limits of an experienced operator with a properly equipped machine. When I spoke to him about it he felt that using his body weight on the up hill side helped and he did go slowly. I have since tried to mow the 20 degree areas that I dislike and practically sat on the up hill fender, with the belt buckled, and leaning up hill and at least felt better. I still crawl and use FWD and know every bump in this area. It may have been a false sense of security but it felt better.
With a loader be sure to use a ballast weight on the TPH and keep the bucket just above the ground. I limit loader work to the flatter areas and pay extra attention to obstacles. I have teetered on slopes less than 10 degrees when I have run a rear tire over some dumped material I was moving. I would not try to move anything on slopes anywhere near 15 degrees but that is me.
With the brush hog use front weights or a loader to balance it and use the same precautions as above. I have the most amount of time with the mower and next the loader and finally the brush hog. The balance of each of my implements is totally different and requires differing limits and operating procedures. I try to utilize patience, practice and caution for each of these as I learn them.
If you have not yet dishing out your wheel and loading your tires will help with stability. Admittedly I am still a rookie but trying to learn the limits of my machine on a relatively sloped plot of land. Be safe and if it does not feel good then back off. There is a reason we pucker up – to keep our butts safe.