TC35D joystick problem

BigOaks · Feb 19, 2003

After recently getting my broken joystick replaced on my TC35D under warranty, I decided to purchase an extra just to have on hand because my dealers are so far away. I purchased a new metal shaft, New Holland Part #86400437 which was $24.08 plus tax. I figured it will probably break again when I need it most, so having one on hand can`t hurt. New. Holland engineers really messed up when designing /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gifthis one!

jinman · Feb 22, 2003

Since you've spent almost $25 already, I think I'd take the new part down to my local welding shop and see if they could "beef up" the extension that is prone to breaking. If you explain the problem, I'm sure even a rookie welder could come up with a better design than the stock NH part. I hate that you had to buy an extra part, but you'd hate it a lot more if you replaced the broken joystick and it broke yet again. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

thcri · Feb 22, 2003

Does any body know if this problem exist on the TC29D also? If so I will go out and get on fixed up also. I have a 7308 loader with a joystick.

Murph

BigOaks · Feb 22, 2003

I believe the problem is only with the new deluxe joystick that is orange and black in color. It also contains the hi-lo switch aka rabbit /turtle switch which is encompassed within it. The poor design is on the metal shaft which is screwed together with two screws from the outside. When the joystick gets a lot of usage stress is created at the upper screw causing it to break. I do not weld, but I am sure " beefing" it up wouldnt hurt. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

thcri · Feb 22, 2003

Then I should be ok. Great

Thanks
Murph

jlong · Feb 22, 2003

Hi all,

I just went through the replacement process, and figured why replace it with something that will only break at the worst possible time. I figured I could do a better job at a replacement, So-- I went to the local hardware store and matched up some all thread 7/16" x20 thread, and small 4" long pipe and made my new one. I took the piece of pipe and welded the nut which matched the all-thread that I used. I then drilled three holes in the pipe. I matched the holes from the joystick handle and drilled the pipe. I also drilled a hole in the pipe near the bottom, to pass the control cable through the pipe. (I needed to cut the control cable at the bottom to make it small enough to pass through the pipe. I then soldered it back together once it was fed through the pipe.) I then drilled the joysick holes all the way through the other side. After bending the all-thread to match the original part, it turned out great. The joystick is now attached to a complete piece of pipe, with two 1/4" nuts/bolts. Although I made two of them, since I had the material, I doubt that it will EVER break!!

markie61 · Feb 28, 2003

Any possibility of a picture?

I'm just waiting for mine to break....

Mark

Never Mind - just found the pics under the "no-joy joystick" thread... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

jlong · Mar 1, 2003

markie61,

Check out the 3 posts that I did on the "no joy joystick" title. It has pictures. Good Luck.

RickB · Mar 2, 2003

A mechanic\'s view

Here's my take on the "No Joy Joystick".
Is the part underdesigned? Definitely.
Will everyone have a problem? No.
At least 90% of owners hav no trouble with the Deluxe joystick. Those that do have breakage are almost guaranteed to continue to have failures because the part can't handle the heavy handed tactics of some operators. These parts were recently on 'backorder' due to demand. We took a couple broken ones and welded them back together, completely filling the lower screw hole with weld. None of these has failed (yet). Of course, we are relying on only one screw to hold the handle. Clearly, a redesign is in order.