TC35DA Flasher and turn lights not working

[gmason]

Not that i use them too often, but they are handly when taking a road trip.

They must be somehow connected to the same relay or wiring.

I've got the wiring diagram from the OM, but can't quite follow the wire from the 10A fuse through the wiring bundle. After wiping a lot of dust/dirt from the wires i see they have the letters/number stamped on them.

Would both lights be controlled from the same relay? Would make sense.

Could this be a grounding issue?

thanks
gary

 

[cardenharry]

My DX33 did this. Simple fix. Blown fuse. My fuse box is under the hood and I think it was a 15 amp. I don't remember which one but the owners manual shows the box and what the fuses are for. If necessary pull them out one by one and see if the wire is broken in the fuse.

 

[jinman]

Gary, there are two relays and a switch that control your flashers. Since you said neither the hazard flasher nor blinkers work, I'm going to rule out the switch being the problem. Also, your lights are grounded by the black wire in the connector going to the lights, so you can check that to see if your lights have a good ground. Just disconnect the connector and check the tractor side to see if the black wire is ground (pin C).

The later model DA tractors have changed electrical relays from the earlier tractors like mine. They combined a regular flasher and separate NASO converter into one module now. It's shown highlighted in red. You have to remove the side cover and it is down under the main relay module near the rear of the starter. Here's the bad news. If it is this module, it's price is over $151. That's the price from Messicks.com. Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to hear.

EDIT: Cardenharry raises a good point, if your turn signals or flashers are not working at all, it might be fuses #3 or #6. My diagram for the older TCs shows two separate fuses for turn signals and hazard flashers, so if both don't work, it's probably not a fuse problem, but it's worth a check.

 

[cardenharry]

Another thing. I remember that the fuse I replaced on mine was not the one I thought the owners manual showed for the flasher/turn signal. I would suggest you pull more than one before giving up on the fuse problem.

 

[gmason]

Thanks for the posts, i pulled all 6-7 main fuses under the dash and checked each one on my meter and all showed green/good.

BTW mine is a older Boomer TC35DA, 2-3 years after they came out.

I followed(i thought) a larger red wire coming out of the fuse for the flasher down to the right most square Bosch relay, and i replaced that with a new one for ~$7. Didn't help.

I saw Jinman's post about the round silver relay about the sauare ones maybe being the one for the flashers and where someone used one from a car that worked.
I'm going to pull the sliver one out and examine it closer to see if anything is visibly wrong.

gary

 

[rayikeo2]

It could be as simple as operating the switch about 25 times on and off. Those seldom used switches seem to get a little corroded.

 

[jinman]

Gary, if you have the older relay setup, your relays will look like the illustration below with Item 7 being the flasher relay. In this setup, that is K6. K7, the NASO flash converter relay, is the rectangular module next to the flasher.

 

[gmason]

I pulled my relay off just now and found a very interest issue. See the picture and see all the rust. Probably a good thing that i pulled it out now otherwise the prongs would have been in the socket for good.

Also, on the top of the part it reads LITTELFUSE 12v-32CP-MAX6 and in the middle it has these numbers 552-536 dot

This relay is very light like it's almost hollow.

gary

 

[jinman]

Gary, if you get the rust off, that relay may work perfectly. All those old flasher relays (even the ones in cars) were light as a feather. There's nothing to them. I think you'll be able to find a generic replacement at your local auto parts store. What worries me is if that relay is in that condition, what else is the same in that area? While everything is open might be a good time to do a check and cleaning.

Edit: I think that the switch contact is just a bimetal reed that heats up and flexs, causing it to open its contacts. That's why they would flash slower if you have a blinker light burn out. How fast they flash is completely dependent on the amount of current going through them.

 

[gmason]

Well i just took a wire brush to the terminals and put some wd-40 on them and stuck it back in and after a little wigging it started to work. My turn signal I worked it back and forth for about 1 minute and it seemed to work too. But is just ordered another online for like 9 bucks just from the same manfacture LittelFuse.

What it looks like is that there must have been water running down the wires that come in the back and the water then just came into the fuse and the 2 plugs. I put my hand behind thre panel and could feel the wires coming into the fuse.

Maybe when the day light and the sun is good then i might be able to see what's going on.

thanks again for the diagram

gary