Welcome to TBN.
1. What should I carefully check out if I go to see it (long distance away)?
a. MOST IMPORTANT! - BIG CONCERN! - NUMBER 1! Read the entire thread:
ARRRRRRGH!!!!!!! Broke my tractor.... Engine Block went SNAP... This was a Class II tractor - but there have been other threads. Check the loader subframe to be sure it is VERY SECURE. Check the bell housing bolts. I have nothing else to add to this thread. I'll probably have nightmares tonight just writing about it.
b. Look for battery corrosion damage.
c. Tractors exposed to a lot of water get corrosion in the tilt wheel mechanism:
Tilt Steering Lever Missing Something
d. The "
No Joy Joystick" isn't too hard of a fix.
e. JInman's hydraulic plate syndrome is well described in
Where the TC45D is NOT deluxe . I think 2004 tractors were built with better welding than Jim's original since my 2003 tractor had a MUCH better welding job.
f. If you are not experienced with Hydrostatic Transmissions, you need to know that you need to run with high enough RPMs to get your pressures up, and that the HST "go pedals" are not accelerators. They are really infinitely adjustable torque adjusters. It you want maximimum torque at the wheels, you must be in the lowest gear range, RPM at ~2600, and the slightest pressure on the pedal - you will move slowly, but you'll be amazed at how much torque you can get. If you reflexly "give it more gas" to try and power your way out of a too-low power state, you will start to get black smoke and lug the diesel. It is not good for diesel engines to be bogged down so much that they "cut out."
g. This is a SuperSteer tractor - difficult to explain, but once you ride on one and see the axle rotate you will understand. Also, the supersteer option does add some increased maneuverability for the tractor, but does come at a cost. Supersteer causes a paradoxical motion of the tractor FEL when turning the steering wheel at rest. This is best learned by trying out a SS tractor with a FEL, and I would not recommend purchasing a SS tractor without doing so. The SS option also requires the 17LA FEL arms to extend out a few more inches further than the 16LA arms to allow for tire clearance.
g. Make sure the Rabbit/Turtle switch on the joystick and the redundant button for the same function on the fender work.
h. Check the cruise control function.
i. The SuperSteer tractors come with automatic 4WD. With the silver metal lever below your left hip (while sitting) pulled up, the tractor will automatically engage the front wheels if a rear wheel slips. Also, with the silver lever down, the automatic 4WD is locked out. There is also a manditory 4WD lever on the left fender that should function.
j. This model tractor has a PTO brake. With the tractor off, you should not be able to rotate the PTO. Also, when shutting down a PTO implement, drop the tractor down to idle, count to four to let the implement slow down, and then turn the PTO lever off. Never suddenly cut off the PTO lever for a high-inertia implement such as a brushhog while running at PTO RPMs - your PTO brake will not be happy.
2. Any way to add or modify so that I can quickly change out bucket to pallet forks?
a. There was a QuikTach option used on the 16 and 17LA loaders that allowed buckets and other skidsteer standard implements to be attached using two levers to drive pins to lock the implement,
3. Can I quickly and easily tell if the loader joystick is joyous (new design that won't break!)?
a. Don't know how to tell, but my 2003 loader control has held up well.
4. General advice/opinions about this model? Use is on a farm. Flat ground, sandy loam soil. Discing, bed shaping, etc.
a. I've run a Landpride FDR2584 Grooming mower, pull a 16" subsoiler through clay, and use a 72" tiller in that same clay without problems. I won't enter the whole ground implement use with Hydro vs. Gear argument. This tractor is GREAT for loader work.