jml755
Silver Member
My TC45 (2001) started spraying diesel fuel out of the pump at the junction where the lines to the injectors attach. First, it was the leftmost and then the second one started spraying fuel. At first, I thought the plates holding the pieces to the pump were loose. After discovering these were "security" nuts with 5 sides, I bought a socket to fit ($15) but found all nuts were tight. I started getting tired of losing diesel fuel and making a mess on my barn floor. Looking at a parts diagram, I figured it was the double o-rings at the bottom of each plunger. Parts figured to be over $100 to do all 4 ports. I called a diesel shop I've used before and they estimated around $350 for the job. So, I pulled the pump, took a little over an hour. You don't have to worry about injection pump timing. There is no gear. Each plunger rides on the cam. You can feel the spring pressure from them when removing/installing the pump. Timing is done by a shim under the pump. Don't remove it or mess it up.
Couple of tips.
- There is a spring clip holding the internal throttle lever to the rack that is a little tough to get to. I couldn't find my forceps so I tried needle nose pliers and ended up dropping the clip into the block. It' now sitting somewhere at the bottom of the oilpan. Probably see it next oil change. HINT: Make sure you use forceps or some other method of keeping hold of it for removal/installation.
- The solenoid for fuel shutoff has a rod that pushes on the rack. With power off, the rod is extended. Didn't notice it when I pulled the pump but during re-install I noticed the rod was bent. I was able to remove the solenoid and straighten the rod, got it moving pretty straight and smoothly. Worse case I'd have to replace the solenoid which can be had for under $50 online. New Holland price is scary. HINT: Either keep the key on (solenoid energized, rod retracted) or remove the solenoid when pulling/installing the pump. The solenoid removes easily, just pull wire (spade terminal) off the end and unscrew it. Still not sure if I bent it during removal or during re-install.
- I opted to not remove the lines at the injectors which would have required a lot more work but instead, removed the clamps holding them together and carefully bent each line up and out of the way, just enough to get the pump out. It WILL come out with a little maneuvering but make sure you remove the hydraulic line retaining clamps which WILL prevent the pump from coming out. Trust me, I know. Spent a fair amount of time trying to wiggle it out with that clamp in place.
After 2 days in the shop, I got the pump back, completely rebuilt. They said they lapped internal components, replaced all o-rings and gaskets. Sand blasted the casting, it looks brand new. Final bill was $381. Money well spent instead of buying the parts and trying to do it myself. I'm no pump specialist.
You'll need 10mm socket for the fuel bayonet, 12mm for the pump bolts/nuts, 17mm for the injector lines. BTW, I bought a replacement spring clip at NH for about a buck, don't try and use any hardware store type, most common sizes are too big or too small. I used a standard 17mm open end and removed the outside injector line fittings first, then inner two second. Install: Tighten the inner lines first and then the outboard ones second. Just gives more room for an open end access to the fittings.
Hope this helps someone someday. Here are some pics.
Pre-removal:
rebuilt pump showing spring clip:
Post removal, showing lever that goes over the rack pin and the solenoid with the rod retracted (power switch ON)
Pump re-installed, ready to hook up lines, bleed the pump (bolt inline with the ports to the right) and fire it up.
Pic showing the solenoid extended, power off.
Pic showing the view during removal of the lever with the clip installed. As you can see, it's inserted so you have to PUSH it to get it out, which contributed to the "losing it". I reinstalled from the other direction so removal in the future will be easier.
Couple of tips.
- There is a spring clip holding the internal throttle lever to the rack that is a little tough to get to. I couldn't find my forceps so I tried needle nose pliers and ended up dropping the clip into the block. It' now sitting somewhere at the bottom of the oilpan. Probably see it next oil change. HINT: Make sure you use forceps or some other method of keeping hold of it for removal/installation.
- The solenoid for fuel shutoff has a rod that pushes on the rack. With power off, the rod is extended. Didn't notice it when I pulled the pump but during re-install I noticed the rod was bent. I was able to remove the solenoid and straighten the rod, got it moving pretty straight and smoothly. Worse case I'd have to replace the solenoid which can be had for under $50 online. New Holland price is scary. HINT: Either keep the key on (solenoid energized, rod retracted) or remove the solenoid when pulling/installing the pump. The solenoid removes easily, just pull wire (spade terminal) off the end and unscrew it. Still not sure if I bent it during removal or during re-install.
- I opted to not remove the lines at the injectors which would have required a lot more work but instead, removed the clamps holding them together and carefully bent each line up and out of the way, just enough to get the pump out. It WILL come out with a little maneuvering but make sure you remove the hydraulic line retaining clamps which WILL prevent the pump from coming out. Trust me, I know. Spent a fair amount of time trying to wiggle it out with that clamp in place.
After 2 days in the shop, I got the pump back, completely rebuilt. They said they lapped internal components, replaced all o-rings and gaskets. Sand blasted the casting, it looks brand new. Final bill was $381. Money well spent instead of buying the parts and trying to do it myself. I'm no pump specialist.
You'll need 10mm socket for the fuel bayonet, 12mm for the pump bolts/nuts, 17mm for the injector lines. BTW, I bought a replacement spring clip at NH for about a buck, don't try and use any hardware store type, most common sizes are too big or too small. I used a standard 17mm open end and removed the outside injector line fittings first, then inner two second. Install: Tighten the inner lines first and then the outboard ones second. Just gives more room for an open end access to the fittings.
Hope this helps someone someday. Here are some pics.
Pre-removal:
rebuilt pump showing spring clip:
Post removal, showing lever that goes over the rack pin and the solenoid with the rod retracted (power switch ON)
Pump re-installed, ready to hook up lines, bleed the pump (bolt inline with the ports to the right) and fire it up.
Pic showing the solenoid extended, power off.
Pic showing the view during removal of the lever with the clip installed. As you can see, it's inserted so you have to PUSH it to get it out, which contributed to the "losing it". I reinstalled from the other direction so removal in the future will be easier.
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