TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work

   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work #1  

sweep

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2007
Messages
472
Location
Ohio hill country
Tractor
2006 TC45A
Plowed the garden several weeks back. I have an old Dearborn 10-8 12" 2 bottom plow and many told me this plow would not work well with this tractor but it did just fine. After experimenting with different plow angles the first row or two, the furrows came out great. Every so often a dirt furrow would not flip over completely but the hillside is somewhat steeper than portrayed in the photos and I think If if I add those moldboard extender tabs that will help the situation.

BTW: I normally keep the ROPS up but I keep the tractor in the basement under the house in the winter and had to lower it for door clearance.
 

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   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work #2  
Looks like your plow works just fine, nice place you have. What are the chains with the rings on hanging from the plow for?
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work #3  
Very nice!! I can't wait to get my plows in the ground.
I am waiting for a set of points as I broke one off last year and the other is really wore. I got one of them ferguson 12-AO-28 plows that they stopped making points for and the only place I have found so far cost $180 a piece.
Plus its still a little wet yet.

What ya planning on planting?
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Looks like your plow works just fine, nice place you have. What are the chains with the rings on hanging from the plow for?


The chains are for the missing jointer arms that scrape the coulters. I chained up the right front coulter so it would not hit the tire.

The horse fence belongs to the neighbor. Wish I owned his place
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Very nice!! I can't wait to get my plows in the ground.
I am waiting for a set of points as I broke one off last year and the other is really wore. I got one of them ferguson 12-AO-28 plows that they stopped making points for and the only place I have found so far cost $180 a piece.
Plus its still a little wet yet.

What ya planning on planting?[/QUOTE

If you look at my shares real close you can see where someone had welded on new points at some time. On another board somone said a company makes generic points you can have welded on but I have not seen them.

New shares are available for my plow but they are very expensive. $90 each for cast iron and $200 + for steel. I figure the shares I have will last the rest of my life.

Both of our plows are antiques.

Planted a row of 'tater's yesterday. Will plan the generic crops: green beans, lima's, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions-that sort of thing.
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work #6  
Plowed the garden several weeks back. I have an old Dearborn 10-8 12" 2 bottom plow and many told me this plow would not work well with this tractor but it did just fine.

I don't understand why someone would say the plow would not work well with that tractor. It seems you have more than enough power. I'd bet that tractor could pull a 3-bottom, especially with the Ag tires. What did you do after plowing to smooth out the soil? Anything? Plowing is normally just the first step. Discing or tilling will leave you with the perfect seedbed.
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I don't understand why someone would say the plow would not work well with that tractor. It seems you have more than enough power. I'd bet that tractor could pull a 3-bottom, especially with the Ag tires. What did you do after plowing to smooth out the soil? Anything? Plowing is normally just the first step. Discing or tilling will leave you with the perfect seedbed.


A couple local (and internet) "old timers" swore it would not work because the tractor's wheelbase was too wide for "that old 12' plow"- "Those old 12" plows are worthless" that sort of thing. All I did was hook it up, level it up and went at it. Did some fine tuning after the first pass and it worked great.

I just used a Toro 5 hp rototiller to smooth up the seedbed. The garden has been plowed 6-7 times before so the ground was pretty soft. I waited a couple weeks and a few rains after plowing and it went fine.
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work #8  
A couple local (and internet) "old timers" swore it would not work because the tractor's wheelbase was too wide for "that old 12' plow"- "Those old 12" plows are worthless" that sort of thing. All I did was hook it up, level it up and went at it. Did some fine tuning after the first pass and it worked great.

I just used a Toro 5 hp rototiller to smooth up the seedbed. The garden has been plowed 6-7 times before so the ground was pretty soft. I waited a couple weeks and a few rains after plowing and it went fine.

I think tilling with a walk behind is way to much work. I think someone is in need of a 3pt hitch tiller to put behind that tractor:D
 
   / TC45A At Play..er I Mean Work #9  
A couple local (and internet) "old timers" swore it would not work because the tractor's wheelbase was too wide for "that old 12' plow"- "Those old 12" plows are worthless" that sort of thing. All I did was hook it up, level it up and went at it. Did some fine tuning after the first pass and it worked great.
QUOTE]

I don't see anything wrong with the wheelbase of your tractor. In fact, if anything, I think you could go even wider. The right moldboard/share looks as if it covers some of the right wheel, which tells me the wheels could be further out or possibly you could slide the plow slightly to the left on the lower bar, and accomplish a little more efficient plowing.

I see you said you did some leveling, but it looks like it is TOO level. In other words, when sitting on level ground (not in the furrow) the plow should be very unlevel, that is the right side of the plow should be much higher (6-8") or more than the left, so that when you are in the furrow, it truly is running level. If you already know this, or the picture is just giving me the wrong impression, please ignore.
 

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