3-Point Hitch TC45S TnT

[Hootis]

I'm new....be nice. ;-)

I've been lurking here for a while now. Great forum. Great advise, great ideas, and one of the most civil groups on the net.

I know it's been done to death...I have read many threads, but I have a few specific top and tilt questions.

I have an 03 TC45S with a 16LA FEL and one set of rear remotes. I have priced the NH second remote kit at $550, and the dealer quoted about $500 each for the top and tilt cylinders, and another $150 or so for lines and fittings. And more for labor....I didn't stick around to see what that was going to cost... Seems like I should be able to install TnT for a lot less. If I just go with tilt and use my existing remote, I could just buy a CCM tilt cylinder for $250 and be done. Adding top will be an additional $550 for a new Holland remote and $185 for the CCM top cylinder.

My questions are:

1. Anyone have advise about the factory remote kit vs a loader valve like this? http://www.haytools.com/public_html/images/Hyd-Valve_drawings.pdf Because the factory remote kit is so expensive ($550) I was thinking about adding this valve and an electric solenoid valve for a planned grapple or 4 way bucket. Does my tractor have a power beyond port at the FEL joystick?

2. I think the nicest TnT cylinders I've seen online seem to be the CCM cylinders with the lock valves. I've heard they are hard to get ahold of during hay season.... Any thoughts?

3. I'm planning on buying or building a log splitter....I was thinking about a 3 point splitter using the tractor hydraulics. Any thoughts on the best way to connect it? The counter guy at the dealer told me the 'usual way' was to connect the splitter to the remote valve and bungie the lever. Huh??? Really? Is there a Power Beyond kit for my tractor?

4. Dealer priced manuals at more than $500. Holy cow!! Really? Any suggestions?

That's it for now. Any help appreciated.

-Hootis

 

[jinman]

Hootis :welcome: to TBN.

I'll try to answer your questions with my opinion included. You'll have to decide for yourself if my reasoning makes any real sense to you. In the end, of course, it's you that has to be pleased with your tractor and what you pay.

Questions answered by no.

1. Yes, you can get a joystick or two spool valve and connect to the power beyond port on the loader valve. However, the 3PH and your single remote operate as power beyond already. You can prove that by lifting the 3PH and the loader at the same time. The loader will take priority and the 3PH will stop working. Also, if you are using your remote, it stops 3PH operation. Finally, if you go with the factory remote, you will raise the value of your tractor, but if you go with your own setup, there's a chance you may actually decrease the value and certainly it won't look as nice and match the tractor like the factory kits do. Since you are only adding one remote, I'd suggest you go with the factory remote. Anytiime you might have a problem or need service at a dealer, they won't blink an eye if you have the factory remote. If it's your design, you might find they are not so helpful or want to blame everything on your addition. ...just food for thought.

2. CCM is out of business as it was structured before. I'm not sure how they have decided to continue or if they still have the TnT setups as before, but they seem to be the victims of the economy and slow sales. However, Surplus Center sells almost an exact copy of the toplink cylinder for $199 and you can order hoses from them for your entire job. That leaves you with the sidelink cylinder. There's a TBNer who sells whole TnT setups, but he doesn't have the DPOCV lock valve that was on the CCM models. I will tell you that my toplink is a CCM model and I love its operation and the locking feature. My sidelink does not have the lock and it's not a big problem because the 3PH lift arms actually float all the time. I can correct any drop that occurs over time by a touch of the remote lever, so it has not been a big issue with me. You might buy the toplink from Surplus Center and the sidelink from someone else or get a cylinder and fabricate your own. Either of these will get you cylinders and hoses for far less than the $500 each you were quoted.

3. What your dealer told you about the 3PH log splitter is completely correct. You bungee the remote lever while using the log splitter. It's such an easy thing to do that you really wouldn't want to fool with power beyond for that application if you have the remote available. BTW: You can also run a log splitter from your FEL Quick Connects if you buy longer hoses. Use the lift circuit and bungee the joystick instead of the remote lever.

4. You can buy manuals on CD online from New Holland for about half the printed manual prices. You can also get manuals for the early TC45S online at tradebit.com as pdf files. I'll give you a better link if you are interested. (EDIT: Actually, only the illustrated parts manual is available at tradbit.com. That's available free online, so there's nothing to be gained by buying it. . . sorry for the bum info.)

 

[barbqranch]

Hoses you can most likely get made locally. Many or all NAPA stores do so, as well as any hydraulic shop and some machine shops. Personally, I like to be able to walk in and talk to the guy that will be running the machine, they often can make suggestions. An old machinist taught me (by example) to not ask for what I wanted, but explain what I wanted to accomplish and how I though it could be done, but how would he do it, since he had more experience than I did. I learned a lot from him.

 

[Hootis]

Jinman,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I agree with your analysis. I later stumbled on one of your threads where you added a total of three remotes to your tc45. A few days ago I asked the kid at the dealer about that and he said only one more was available. He mentioned something about new part numbers? Anybody know if the third remote kit is still available and it's part number?

Who is the TBNer who has the sidelink? I'd like to get one. I'll take your advise and order the factory remote kit from the dealer and the toplink from Surplus Hydraulics.


Barbqranch,

Thanks for the advise...I'll try to do more listening than talking. I have a Napa in town....and they make hoses. That should make things much nicer.



You guys are great! Thanks for the help.


-Hootis

 

[jinman]

Who is the TBNer who has the sidelink? I'd like to get one. I'll take your advise and order the factory remote kit from the dealer and the toplink from Surplus Hydraulics.

His user name is MtnViewRanch. You can send him a PM. I will tell you that he thinks the toplinks without the lock valve are fine, but many of us who have had both types think the one with the lock valve is superior in control and rigidity. Again, your decision.

EDIT: I believe the TC45S model tractor can only have two remotes. I guess you could put a third remote on there like the TC45D models do, but I don't know where you would put the lever or if it would just get in the way of something else. On the D-model tractor, there is a slot cut out in the plastic side panel to support the third lever. As far as I know that's the only limitation of your tractor. It was designed to have no more than two factory remote valves.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nothing wrong with the DPOCVs, just not needed for top and tilt cylinders in my opinion or John Deere's, or Kubota's or Case or Caterpillar, etc. None of these manufacturers have check valves on their top and tilt cylinders. As has been discussed many times before, in all reality the reason to have the check valve is so that the cylinder does not leak down (drift) and in most cases the cylinder leaks down not because of the seals in the hydraulic cylinder, but in the actual control valve itself. So if you have a control valve that does not leak, you most likely will not have a cylinder that leaks down or (drifts). Now many of the valves that are used on our CUT and Utility tractors are not of the best quality and therefore many people end up with top and tilt cylinder drift.

There are pluses and minuses to having the check valves, A lot depends on what type of control valve you have, what type of side link lower clevis you have, what implements you are using and how they get used. Lots of things to be considered and many simply are not a concern for the novice.

I personally have never needed the check valves, maybe I am lucky and have good control valves. I do a lot of grading and am always adjusting my implement to match the conditions at the moment anyway.

If you want a side link from me (Fit Rite Hydraulics) the 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod is $275 and a hose kit with 36" long hoses and 1/2" male quick disconnects is $40. This cost plus shipping is what it would cost you to get a side link from me. Usually takes 1-2 weeks to have it at your door. If you want a side link with a check valve, then I believe that Haytools.com, Hay Equipment Headquarters would be the place to go.

 

[nickel plate]

I'm new....be nice. ;-)

My questions are:

13. I'm planning on buying or building a log splitter....I was thinking about a 3 point splitter using the tractor hydraulics. Any thoughts on the best way to connect it? The counter guy at the dealer told me the 'usual way' was to connect the splitter to the remote valve and bungie the lever. Huh??? Really? Is there a Power Beyond kit for my tractor?

-Hootis

A nice feature about running the splitter off of your 3pt hitch and existing set of rear remotes is that you can adjust the splitter's log deck height in accordance to your back's working comfort level. Do this with the 3pt up/down lever before you tie back the remote lever as the 3pt up/down travel is nullified until you release the remote lever back to center. I usually change out the log deck height a couple of times during a splitting session due to the weight of the rounds and the condition of my back.
With a top link and another set of remotes you can further adjust the log deck angle but that is not as important as the above mentioned height adjustment. Just something else to play with.
Get some colored quick ties and once you have established which hose goes to which remote to make the splitter's detent work in the proper direction (for me it's lever locked, cylinder rod retracts), color code them-no more 50/50 chance of right or wrong.
I have two sets of remotes on my TC40S and with a minute or two of hose switching I can run a TnT box scraper, wood splitter or a bucket grapple.