TCC (link to pics)

/ TCC (link to pics) #1  

MadDog

Platinum Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2004
Messages
523
Location
Wrentham,Massachusetts
Tractor
Kubota B7800
Herewith a link to my tractor pics. The last eight pics (begining with DSCN0268) show the tractor 3ph hookup and the changes in sidek-to-side and front-to-back implement attitude that can be made w/out leaving the tractor seat:

Kubota Tractor

The single joystick, which controls both cylinders, is mounted (w/ Ubolts - and without drilling /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) to the lower right ROPS just behind the SMV sign, on the right of the operator. The hydraulic lines run from the joystick console under the main frame to the FEL and are well out of harms way since they are pretty well protected by (as well as tied to) the frame itself.

The right lift arm cylinder, even fully retracted, was a bit longer than the adjustable lift arm so that, in order to get both arms level with the cylinder at 1/2 extension, I had to drill a hole in the left lower arm somewhat closer to the tractor, as shown on DSCN0268.

This works OK, but a better permanant solution will be to get a lift arm for the left lower arm that is the right length when it is connected to the equivilent hole on the lower left arm, as the right cylinder is on the right arm. That way, the implement will keep its level or tilt as you raise or lower the attachment throughout its range. (The reason that it doesn't if you have the left lift arm connected at a different point on the lower arm is that the lift is being communicated along an arc with a longer radius.)

You can still get precisely the amount of tilt that you want, but you have make the tilt adjustment with the attachment lowered to the depth at which you are going to use it.

As you can see, it is possible to use the TCC hydraulics to make quite significant adjustments of both side-to-side and front-to-back attitude. I think that this will be a great advantage when using a boxblade, and also more convenient when using a rear blade and, possibly, a post hole digger (as, for example, when the tractor is on a grade, but you want to drill a hole that is vertical).

I started cutting a path into the woods on our back land this past weekend and experimented a bit with the TCC. I think that it will be quite useful for many things, including (1) getting exactly the right relationship for the particular terrain conditions between the scarifiers and the rear blade of the boxblade, (2) cutting into the side of a grade and (3) using a single scarifier at one end or the other to help pry up larger rocks (or cut roots) that would be hard to dislodge with the FEL.

Hope all of this is useful to those interested in TCC/TnT.
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #2  
Just out of curiosity, if you don't mind my asking, what was the complete cost to install the system and how long did it take to install?
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The right lift arm cylinder, even fully retracted, was a bit longer than the adjustable lift arm so that, in order to get both arms level with the cylinder at 1/2 extension, I had to drill a hole in the left lower arm somewhat closer to the tractor, as shown on DSCN0268.

This works OK, but a better permanant solution will be to get a lift arm for the left lower arm that is the right length when it is connected to the equivilent hole on the lower left arm, as the right cylinder is on the right arm. That way, the implement will keep its level or tilt as you raise or lower the attachment throughout its range. (The reason that it doesn't if you have the left lift arm connected at a different point on the lower arm is that the lift is being communicated along an arc with a longer radius.) )</font>

MadDog,

I see you have the same problem with the adjustable link on the left as I am. I cannot get the adjustable link long enough to level the boxblade when the tilt cylinder is half way. I even drilled another hole in the lower fork of the tilt cylinder but that only got me half way there (its nice to have a full machine shop in the basement). I have an extra lower fork for the adjustable link that I am going to lengthen a few inches. This will allow both links to use the holes on the lift arms furthest from the tractor (my B2710 has 2 holes on each arm).
 
/ TCC (link to pics)
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Bob: The complete system (cylinders, joystick and console, remotes and all necessary hoses and connections, etc. cost $1250 plus shipping. I had Jim send it to my dealer who installed it before I took delivery of the tractor. The dealer said that it took about an hour to install and he didn't charge much for it. I did another recent long post on this with the details, including what you do to remove and re-install when switching the 3ph with my subframe mounted backhoe.

Hope this helps.
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #5  
Mad Dog, thanks for the post. I am enjoying using your money to see how things work on "My" tractor. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks for the pics too.

Mike
 
/ TCC (link to pics)
  • Thread Starter
#6  
No worries, mate.

Incidentally, as you doubtless know, you can put in TCC one part at a time and spread out the $ pain. I think that if I were only gonna do one at first, I'd probably put in the hydraulic toplink first, unless I were planning on doing a lot of boxblade work, since it is one of only a few attachments were the tilt capability is useful.

BTW, I thought you and the 'Bota were on your way from Parker to check out the Tiller. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #7  
I have thought about the spreading out the pain concept. The thing is it seems to me that even to get just the hydraulic top-link, I am still going to end up buying most of the whole kit. Actually the only parts I see NOT buying are the cylinder and hoses for the side link. Am I wrong?

I don't know, and right now the question is moot since I am still waiting for the delivery /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. My biggest problem appears to be that I ordered too many implements to go along with the tractor. There is something no one from TBN warned me about. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif As of now, the dealer has the tractor, toothbar, and BB. In fact BB just came in on the truck today /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Still waiting on the Rotary cutter and PHD but hopefully not much longer. Seems that the current state of fuel prices is making it so no one wants to send out a truck that isn't chock full.

Anyway, after she gets here then I will probably spend some more time talking to Jim at TCC to see what my various options are.

Since it was taking so long for the delivery, I was going to jump on the old Ford YT-18 lawn tractor for the trip to the cold, small states to see you. Had a lunch packed and everything but, well as I said before those darn fuel prices pretty much wrecked that idea. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have thought about the spreading out the pain concept. The thing is it seems to me that even to get just the hydraulic top-link, I am still going to end up buying most of the whole kit. Actually the only parts I see NOT buying are the cylinder and hoses for the side link. Am I wrong?)</font>

I paid $253 + $25 shipping for just the tilt/side link cylinder. A hose kit for that cylinder would have been $49 but I had them made locally.
 
/ TCC (link to pics)
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I'm not sure what the cost breakdown is for the various componants. Obviously, you would have to get the toplink cylinder, at least one set of remotes, joystick, console and one set of hoses. You could probably defer both the tilt cylinder and the remotes and hoses that run it, but I'm not sure of that, or of how much that would take off total price, although I think that the valves are probably the big $ item.

Hope you enjoyed the lunch even if you didn't get to eat it while driving a lawn tractor on an Interstate. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

You'd have been in my prayers enroute. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #10  
Speaking of lunches, what do you keep in that thermos bottle on your BB? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
/ TCC (link to pics)
  • Thread Starter
#11  
It does LOOK like a thermos bottle, doesn't it? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

...but it isn't. The stuff I like to drink doesn't really need to be chilled anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think that the black plastic cylinder is for storing the owner's manual, but I keep all the manuals in a large ring binder.

In the case of the boxblade there isn't much useful info in it; just a bunch of warnings like "if you put your head under the BB when it's raised, and the hydraulics let loose and drop the whole thing on your head, you're gonna have a headache." /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ....stuff that they think isn't obvious with a 500# BB, so you really need to be told /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #14  
I'm assuming they would be analagous to the FEL leveling rod? Which, btw, I have yet to figure out it's usefullness!! Guess I need a Tractor 101 class!
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #15  
Nice post, Mad dog. Thanks for your trouble. One question and one nitpic:
Will the remote valves (two?) that were included in the $1250 perform the same general purpose as remote valves mounted conventionally in the rear with the exception that you control them with the joystick rather than individual handles by the fender wall? Say you want to use just one remote for a single cylinder on a BB tilt, would the joystick cooperate?

From what I read, many small cylinders use a flow restrictor to slow down the cylinder speed for better fine adjustment. I wonder why they don't use smaller hose diameter as well. It seems like the more flexible hose would route a little neater and out of the way.

Thanks,

John
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #16  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( From what I read, many small cylinders use a flow restrictor to slow down the cylinder speed for better fine adjustment. I wonder why they don't use smaller hose diameter as well. It seems like the more flexible hose would route a little neater and out of the way.)</font>

I used 1/4" hoses from the spool work ports to the cylinders on my TNT setup and they do slow down the movement without using additional restrictors. I can get a fairly slow even movement, like feathering.

On the other hand, my snowblower chute rotator uses 3/8" hose and it really moves fast, too fast. You have to be quick on the lever to get a small movement.
 
/ TCC (link to pics)
  • Thread Starter
#17  
jmc: I'm glad that MadRef took a crack at responding because I'm not sure that I understand enough about the hydraulics to answer your question. I do know that Jim says that you can control additional cylinders through the same valve by means of an electric joystick and "diverter valves", but I really don't understand how this works. I'm hopful that if Jim sees this, he will post something that enlightens all of us.
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #18  
<font color="blue"> What's the purpose of the brass colored rods running the length of the cylinders </font>

I think the position indicator rods are overkill. You can't see them from the tractor seat and no one is going to get off the tractor to see what angle they are running their box-blade at regardless. They were removed from my two cylinders even before the cylinders were mounted on my TC-40D. I do however like the TnT system.
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #19  
Don't even waste your time trying to store your manuals in the Woods container. It's not even remotely waterproof. I just threw my waterlogged GB60 manual in the trash last weekend.
 
/ TCC (link to pics) #20  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You can't see them from the tractor seat )</font>

One of the things I miss about our tractors is the rear visibility and access I had on my Ford Jubilee. I could actually sit in the seat and adjust the toplink or sidelink manually by simply leaning back and making the adjustment. I think your comment is absolutely true for our Boomers, but some folks may have a clear view of toplink and use the guage to find their favorite "sweet spots" for blade operation. I think it's a nice feature even though I would probably have done the same as you and removed it.

I also see that you and I have a common issue with the Kubota guys (some of them) on the hydraulic sidelink being so long that the adjustable link is adjusted near it's maximum length. I may shorten my hydraulic link by taking some of the extra rod length off the cylinder. there is about 5" of extra rod sticking out when my cylinder is fully retracted. I'd feel more comfortable if I could put the cylinder in the middle of its throw and have the adjustable side in the middle of the threads.

That settles it! I need to buy me a welder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Also... Thanks to everyone who has posted so far. This thread is turning out to be just exactly what I wanted. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
 

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