TCC (link to pics)

MadDog · May 19, 2004

It does LOOK like a thermos bottle, doesn't it? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

...but it isn't. The stuff I like to drink doesn't really need to be chilled anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think that the black plastic cylinder is for storing the owner's manual, but I keep all the manuals in a large ring binder.

In the case of the boxblade there isn't much useful info in it; just a bunch of warnings like "if you put your head under the BB when it's raised, and the hydraulics let loose and drop the whole thing on your head, you're gonna have a headache." /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ....stuff that they think isn't obvious with a 500# BB, so you really need to be told /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Bucky4 · May 19, 2004

MadDog,

What's the purpose of the brass colored rods running the length of the cylinders?

bucky4

Inspector507 · May 19, 2004

Those are the position indicators

Bucky4 · May 19, 2004

I'm assuming they would be analagous to the FEL leveling rod? Which, btw, I have yet to figure out it's usefullness!! Guess I need a Tractor 101 class!

jmc · May 19, 2004

Nice post, Mad dog. Thanks for your trouble. One question and one nitpic:
Will the remote valves (two?) that were included in the $1250 perform the same general purpose as remote valves mounted conventionally in the rear with the exception that you control them with the joystick rather than individual handles by the fender wall? Say you want to use just one remote for a single cylinder on a BB tilt, would the joystick cooperate?

From what I read, many small cylinders use a flow restrictor to slow down the cylinder speed for better fine adjustment. I wonder why they don't use smaller hose diameter as well. It seems like the more flexible hose would route a little neater and out of the way.

Thanks,

John

MadReferee · May 19, 2004

( From what I read, many small cylinders use a flow restrictor to slow down the cylinder speed for better fine adjustment. I wonder why they don't use smaller hose diameter as well. It seems like the more flexible hose would route a little neater and out of the way.)

I used 1/4" hoses from the spool work ports to the cylinders on my TNT setup and they do slow down the movement without using additional restrictors. I can get a fairly slow even movement, like feathering.

On the other hand, my snowblower chute rotator uses 3/8" hose and it really moves fast, too fast. You have to be quick on the lever to get a small movement.

MadDog · May 19, 2004

jmc: I'm glad that MadRef took a crack at responding because I'm not sure that I understand enough about the hydraulics to answer your question. I do know that Jim says that you can control additional cylinders through the same valve by means of an electric joystick and "diverter valves", but I really don't understand how this works. I'm hopful that if Jim sees this, he will post something that enlightens all of us.

PineRidge · May 19, 2004

What's the purpose of the brass colored rods running the length of the cylinders 

I think the position indicator rods are overkill. You can't see them from the tractor seat and no one is going to get off the tractor to see what angle they are running their box-blade at regardless. They were removed from my two cylinders even before the cylinders were mounted on my TC-40D. I do however like the TnT system.

hammer1995 · Jun 4, 2004

Don't even waste your time trying to store your manuals in the Woods container. It's not even remotely waterproof. I just threw my waterlogged GB60 manual in the trash last weekend.

jinman · Jun 17, 2004

( You can't see them from the tractor seat )

One of the things I miss about our tractors is the rear visibility and access I had on my Ford Jubilee. I could actually sit in the seat and adjust the toplink or sidelink manually by simply leaning back and making the adjustment. I think your comment is absolutely true for our Boomers, but some folks may have a clear view of toplink and use the guage to find their favorite "sweet spots" for blade operation. I think it's a nice feature even though I would probably have done the same as you and removed it.

I also see that you and I have a common issue with the Kubota guys (some of them) on the hydraulic sidelink being so long that the adjustable link is adjusted near it's maximum length. I may shorten my hydraulic link by taking some of the extra rod length off the cylinder. there is about 5" of extra rod sticking out when my cylinder is fully retracted. I'd feel more comfortable if I could put the cylinder in the middle of its throw and have the adjustable side in the middle of the threads.

That settles it! I need to buy me a welder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Also... Thanks to everyone who has posted so far. This thread is turning out to be just exactly what I wanted. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif