TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING

   / TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING #1  

downslope

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
642
Location
NY
Tractor
MF TO-35, Ford(s) 2000, 8N, 9N, White 2-70, NH TD75D, JD 5045D
I have a TD75D that's about 5 years old/450 hours. It has a NH loader on it.

This past winter I had 2 or 3 occasions when going out to plow snow where I could not shift either the range selector or the gear selector. This was after the tractor had set in an unheated barn for several days/weeks when outside was 10 degrees F or less. You could just not move either shifter. The forward/reverse synchro shifter moved OK and the 3-point was working, though. The first time I let it run for about an hour and it finally freed up. The second time I turned the heater on in the barn for a while and made sure to park it in 2nd gear/II range with the shuttle in neutral after that.

When this was occurring the loader joystick also was acting stiff and sluggish, ie. wouldn't return to center, hard to move etc.

Do you think I have water in the oil? I've changed the hydraulic filter once or twice since I've owned it, but not all the oil in the common sump. I guess I'll do that now, although it takes over 13 gallons ($$$). NH only specifies a change at 1,200 hours but they do add OR every 2 years.

The tractor is garaged 90% of the time but that's not to say it hasn't sat out in one or two rainstorms. This is the first winter I've evidenced this problem, although I only tend to run it after a winter storm during cold months.
 
   / TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING #2  
try warming it up completely to melt the ICE , then carefully remove the drain plug, drain out 1 quart or so from the bottom of the sump, and put the plug back in, then top off the fluid .....

water settles to the bottom, if there is any in the oil you should get most of it ...

joystick may have water in the unit .... in the spring area. .... heat with a hair dryer to confirm .
 
   / TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING
  • Thread Starter
#3  
try warming it up completely to melt the ICE , then carefully remove the drain plug, drain out 1 quart or so from the bottom of the sump, and put the plug back in, then top off the fluid .....

water settles to the bottom, if there is any in the oil you should get most of it ...

joystick may have water in the unit .... in the spring area. .... heat with a hair dryer to confirm .
Well, the problems were in JAN and FEB 2014, but no freezing weather now in April. But I will try what you said and see if I can crack the drain plug and look for water coming out. I have a feeling I'll end up draining and refilling. Thanks for the ideas.
 
   / TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING #4  
I have a 2007 TD95D with a 820TL loader with 300 hrs and in the -20F weather the hydraulics were slow til they warmed up but the shifting was never a problem. The shuttle worked smoothly and the gears worked smoothly. I would check for water in the fluid
 
   / TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I have a 2007 TD95D with a 820TL loader with 300 hrs and in the -20F weather the hydraulics were slow til they warmed up but the shifting was never a problem. The shuttle worked smoothly and the gears worked smoothly. I would check for water in the fluid
Do you still have the original fluid in it? The Ambra they specify is a multi-weight, I think 10-30, so that should help with the cold weather hydraulic operation. If you have changed it, what did you use? I haven't found any generic brand that is multi-weight, but haven't looked too much yet. Will have to decide if to use the Ambra or something else.
 
   / TD75D COLD WEATHER SHIFTING
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I've decided to change the fluid in the TD75D. Can someone suggest a good way to transfer the new oil from the 5 gallon buckets (almost 3 pails) thru the small ~1/2 inch plug at the rear of the tractor?

Also, are there 3 drain plugs to remove to get it all out? Should I first try pumping some out thru a remote before pulling the plugs? I guess drain it when it's hot, right?

I loosened two of the plugs and let a quart or so out to check for water. It didn't really see any water or milkiness, but not perfectly clear like new either. But the fluid in the loader hoses definitely looks milky. Do I have to purge oil from the loader cylinders/hoses before reconnecting and how would you do this? I can't believe you would need a shop manual to see what drain plugs should be removed; no mention in operators manual, just the service intervals.
 

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