Tecumseh 7HP Snowblower carb problem

[wolfden793]

Photo #4 shows the float blow vent tube being kinked right at the exit of the carb. You need to change this. Where does the other end of the vent tube go ?
On Photo #7, on the left side of the cover, what does the part that has the sheet metal screw sticking thru it do ?

Can you show photo of the shield installed and look to see if the shield is interfering with the governor arm in that area.

Is this carb an exact replacement part ? For example, did the throttle linkage fit without any bending of the linkage ?

OK, the kinked vent tube is the primer tube. The other end fits into the primer bulb. The screw you mentioned doesn't appear to do anything. It's just screwed through the cover and is far from any contact with the engine itself. I put the cover back on and there is no binding anywhere that I can see. Carb is aftermarket and attached without issue or bending of any linkage.

 

[RandyT]

The primer tube is also the bowl vent, so if it kinks can cause richening of the fuel mix due to a siphoning effect. If completely plugged off can even cause it to siphon the contents of the fuel tank.

 

[wolfden793]

Wow! Didn't know that. Well, I replaced that tube and took it outside just now and it started right up and idled nicely, but if you try and accelerate too quickly, it stalls out. If you try slowly, it's fine. Gotta be a fine adjustment maybe in the governor adjusting screw?

 

[Richard001]

Nope, has nothing to do with the governor. Your idle adjustment screw needs to be set a little richer as well as the main fuel adjustment screw.

 

[RandyT]

Could be running a tad lean. Try turning the screw out on the side of the carb close to the muffler a small amount and see what happens. If that doesn't correct it then turn the screw out a tad on the bottom of the fuel bowl. From your description it's not getting enough fuel to transition from idle to full speed quickly.

 

[wolfden793]

Hi Richard,

Thanks for all your help! I adjusted the main jet and idle accordingly and it runs great! I think that kinked tube was the main culprit. Take care and thanks again!

Jim

 

[Richard001]

Jim,
Glad that it worked out for you. Now when that snow comes around, you will be able to blow it away!

One other thing, that little hole in the primer button must be kept open. This allows the air pressure on top of the fuel in the carb to stay constant.

Richard

 

[wolfden793]

Hi Richard,

I hope you don't mind another Tecumseh related question. I have an HS50 I'm painting and restoring and as many have found, timing one is a pain. I don't have a dial indicator, but do have a digital caliper. The specs say .080 BTDC, and I measured this distance carefully. I bought a battery powered timing light, but instead of lighting when I reach this point, it just lights to indicate continuity. I've seen several videos online, but they show the light only glows when the "sweet spot" is found. Is my light malfunctioning or am I doing something wrong? Do I need to invest in a dial indicator? New points and condenser, gone through the engine completely. Great compression. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Jim

 

[tomplum]

Well, I'm not Richard. But your life would be easier if you used a ohmmeter /continuity tester rather than a timing light. If you know your gap is .020 at the points and the spec of .080 is correct you should be fine.

 

[wolfden793]

Hi Randy,
Thanks very much for your message. OK, I'll try and see what I can do with my ohmmeter. I saw a video online where the one used had a tone when the spot was reached and mine doesn't, so I'll just have to experiment and see what happens. Thanks again!

Jim