Grading Teeth Virsus Blade

   / Teeth Virsus Blade #1  

Whitey

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Messages
254
Location
Slippery Rock, Pennsylvania
Tractor
Kabota B21 TLB
I am going to remove about 4" - 6" of packed material from my irregular shaped driveway this summer and replace it with limestone. My question is......I am torn between buying a tooth bar for my 60" FEL or a 60" RB or a 60" BB for the removal. Price being a factor along with the future usage of the equipment. Backblading with a tooth bar to loosen up the material seems like the logical choice, low price along with future usage. I just don't think I would use a RB or BB as much as a tooth bar. Anyone out there care to weigh in???

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #2  
You are right...but.

Yes, you will get much more use out of the toothbar.

The project you are looking at is much more conducive to a box blade and rippers.
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #3  
I'm in a similar dilema. The problem is that the 770's are not really the best for digging and heavy loader work due to the gear transmission. Low range is low enough to dig and scoop, but then transport speed is way to slow. High range is just to high to did with. The light model 70 loader is good for loose material but really can't handle the hard stuff.

If I were you, I would loosen the material with your backhoe. Thats designed for the heavy digging, then smooth the loose material with the loader. If you have a long driveway, this could mean some serious seat time.

If I had a backhoe for mine, I wouldn't be shopping for a new tractor. But adding to the fact that I need a better digging machine is that I have some serious brush hogging to do to.
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #4  
Whitey said:
I am going to remove about 4" - 6" of packed material from my irregular shaped driveway this summer and replace it with limestone. My question is......I am torn between buying a tooth bar for my 60" FEL or a 60" RB or a 60" BB for the removal. Price being a factor along with the future usage of the equipment. Backblading with a tooth bar to loosen up the material seems like the logical choice, low price along with future usage. I just don't think I would use a RB or BB as much as a tooth bar. Anyone out there care to weigh in???

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP


Be careful Backblading in this position. It can be "very" tough on any loader's bucket cylinders. With the rams fully extended they are exposed and are at a vunerable position. Down pressure from the lift cylinder's can bend the bucket cylinder rams.

I'd agree with RFB - a box blade and ripper may be more efficient depending on the lengh of the drive.
 

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   / Teeth Virsus Blade #5  
My vote would be for a box blade; it will definitely do the job you have described and will continue to come in useful for other tasks. I have not purchased a toothbar yet, but even with a toothbar, I'm not sure we have enough tractor for big jobs with it.

Good luck.
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #6  
For the task you describe, go with the box blade. The scarifers will tear up the road much quicker and will be easier on you equipment. Even the scarifers will have some serious difficulty with the hard packed road. Tear it up, box blade it into a pile and move it with the FEL if needed. If the materiall is loose after ripping it with the box blade, the FEL should be able to move it much easier. Tooth bar just isn't going to work well and will be hard on your loader, for digging up hard packed road. The boxblade for most people will have more uses in the future and makes a great counter weight on the back for loader work. A regular rear blade won't help much at all with this project.
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #7  
As much as I like my toothbar go for the box blade. I tried to use a rear blade with my FEL and toothbar last year and it is slow going.
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #8  
I did forward blading with the toothbar fully down in digging up an area for a rain garden. It tears up the dirt and digs rocks pretty well. I've seen similar toothbars on rear scoops that can be run in the down position to do this, too. Think the back blade on the 3ph is only useful for smoothing. Back blading, too, without the toothbar on the FEL, can be used for smoothing.

Ralph
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade #9  
I'm curious about; "...remove about 4"-6" of packed material..." Why would you not just add Limestone on top of what sounds like a good road bed? Only asking since my road is rough with large and small stones packed pretty good but still is a rough ride. I was thinking about adding a top coat. Why would you remove this material? :confused:
 
   / Teeth Virsus Blade
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks everyone for your experiences and opinions! This is why this site is so great! I never even considered the "Danger Zone" for my FEL cylinders :eek: I am thankful for that post. It looks as if the BB (boxblade) has won out. I forgot to mention that my wife will be doing this so the easier the better. I think that after it's initial useage the box blade may be forced into other projects. :rolleyes: Give my wife enough time and she may reconfigure the entire property.:D

Thanx To All!

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH / BB pending - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP
 

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