That T&T PO Check Valve Urban Legend...

[Henro]

Urban??? Wait a minute! OK, make that Rural legend. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

In another thread RaT stated that in his experience he has never found a need for pilot operated check valves with the T&T on his tractor. Nixon followed up with similar thoughts.

In theory, check valves that lock cylinder position make a lot of sense. But in practice, do they really make a difference? I MEAN REALLY?

While my mind may find itself in an ideal, theoretical world much of the time, my body never leaves the land of milk and honey. So I now am questioning the practical usefulness of PO check valves with T&T. Is the cost worth it? It could be that they are the greatest thing since sliced bread if one has a control valve with excessive bleed through.

But with control valves that meet manufacturer’s specification, are we fooling ourselves when we spend the money for PO check valves to be used in a T&T setup?

I like to do things right and as good as I can. But I don’t like to waste money on something that really in not needed in a practical world.

Any thoughts/experiences?

Which side of the fence are you on?

I'm balancing on the fence right now. Hope I don’t fall with one leg on each side! (Been there, done that. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif)

 

[JerryG]

Bill,
The pilot really shines when you have a real expensive valve that has mis-stacked tolerances. The valve will act like a well stacked valve, if you use the pilot. In that case, it is well worth the money. Some man lift equipment are required to have pilots for safety.

 

[_RaT_]

Makes sense.

 

[jmc]

Henro,

I'm on the pilot side if you have a valve like mine. The top link is of no consequence for me since it is usually slack for mowing. But the side link droops about 1/4 inch/hr- enough to give a saw tooth cut after a morning of mowing. Then you have to remember to reset the sidelink when you first use the tractor after it sits awhile. Could I tweek the sidelink every so often so it doesn't have a chance to droop too far? Yes, if I remember to. You have to be able to eyeball if the mower is level from the tractor seat or otherwise, stop the PTO, get off the tractor (God forbid) and measure it. To me its a small price for the convenience.

John

I should have mentioned that the 1/4" per hr. leak rate was measured at the link. That would translate to about twice that at the edge of a 6 ft mower.

 

[Gator6x4]

I removed the OEM T&T from my L3830 and added Integration Engineerings cylinders(Jim McCuan)with the dual pilot valves. The OEM cylinders would need constant adjustment when using the tractor to maintain a preset point or location. Have a memory lapse and forget to adjust ever few minutes with the OEM cylinders and get more seat time to correct the "Mess Up."

 

[PineRidge]

Henro I don't have a lot of the cylinders to compare, but the two that I do have both came from Integration Engineering and are both equipped with pilot valves. They stay right where I put them and without any drift whatsoever. Are the pilot valves worth the money, I guess that depends entirely on how much drift that you have without them and the inconvenience of constantly readjusting your implement.

 

[txdon]

<font color="blue"> "...check valves...do they really make a difference?"
</font>

If you use the T&T just for box blading I would say you do not need the check valve because you are constantly adjusting any way. If you are lazy like me and do not want to take it off when you put on the mower, yes they really do make a difference. But if you don't mind an occasional scuff mark from the side of the mower, or the blade cutting at a different angle then they really do NOT make a difference. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jinman]

Don, I'm right there with you on the usefulness of the PO checkvalves. My toplink hoses are so large that they balloon a little and my toplink has some play. My sidelink has smaller hoses and I haven't noticed much drift, but I'm only doing rough blade and rotary cutter work. If I had a finish mower, I'd either remove the TnT when mowing or I'd get the PO checkvalves. I think it's not only the elimination of leaky valves but also the elimination of ballooning hoses.

Also, if you order hydraulic links from IE or CCM they buy them in bulk and you get a price break. If you make your own and have to buy the components as a one-off item. It's going to cost you lots more money in my opinion.

 

[_RaT_]

I was wondering much the same. I am trying to figure out the precision aspect. No question the tilt cylinder will show the biggest issue with drift since the geometry or leverage is so high. A 1/8" drift can mean quite a bit more at the end of a 3 pt lower link. If the cylinder itself leaks, the piloted check valve does nothing to stop that. Not that I am against piloted hydraulics, I'm just not so certain I understand the fuss over non piloted cylinders is. SI with it's considerably smaller hydraulics would not be an advantage for me. I also notice that the extra connections like the banjo fittings and compression fittings could themselves be a source of another leak negating the benefit of the check valve. At any rate, the price for the componets is certainly right and I would also consider them, especially if they could match the bore's.

 

[cmuncy]

OK,

I am in a similar boat. on my TnT, my top link and side link do move, almost an incnh or more when in use. i havent been able to determine if the cylinders are junk ( I hope not ) or if the factory valves are crap ( i hope not too) I have to consistantly adjust bot valves to maintain position. i have considered that my hoses are too big ( ie.. diameter ) and they are ballooning ( currently 36" x 1/2' ) I'm going to have new 1/4" hoses made and see if that helps.

if not, then I seee some check valves in my future.