The little tractor that could.

   / The little tractor that could. #1  

Marlowe

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
313
Location
Goose Creek, S.C.
Tractor
Mitsubishi 1801
When I first bought my little tractor I thought I'd made a mistake. It couldn't get out of it's own way if It had a load in the front bucket. It was, after all, only an eighteen hundred pound tractor with a FEL added. That makes for one front heavy little sucker. But just like any other piece of equipment we may own, I had to learn how to work it. I may not know tractors, but I'm learning.

I started adding weight to the rear end. My first stab at it was to slide a shaft in the three point hitch lift arms, and add weight to it. I totalled about three hundred and fifty pounds in there and it made a new tractor out of the little guy. That was fine untill I bought a box blade and needed to remove the weights to install the box. No problem, as long as the box blade was hanging in mid air, but soon as I dropped the blade, the wheels spun with the slightest load. 'Gotta find somewhere else to hang some weight', I thought.

Brainstorm. I drilled and bolted seventy five pounds to each rear wheel. That oughta do it, I hoped.

Nope. Still, when I dropped the box blade, the wheels spun with the slightest resistance.

So I added fifty pounds bolted to the rear hitch. That helped, but still the box blade was almost useless for anything other than a counterweight for the FEL.

Finally, last night, I filled the rear tires with liquid. I experimented with several methods of doing so before I came up with a working plan. It took a while, but was worth the effort.

Today I went to my lot to work on the foundation for my new house. I dug the foundation footers with a track hoe but had to leave for a business trip before I could clean up the residual clay that fell back into the ditches. As we could expect, monsoon season set in before I could get back to it. My footer ditches were filled with wet, heavy, sticky, mud. The kind you have to pry the shovel from the sucking action, then beat the mud off the shovel. My tractor was useless for this process, but I did need to rest now and then. So, I let the tractor work while I rested. I did need to try out the newly weighted rear tires, after all.

The place was a muddy mess, in general. Everything I did with the tractor was a challenge, but everything was a bit easier now. The proof, though, was when I dropped the box blade to drag. Worked like a champ. In fact, it worked so good I was able to rest up quite nicely from all that mud shoveling. I just set the RPM's around sixteen hundred and drove while I feathered the lift lever to level things off. Instead of digging holes, the rear wheels pulled without slipping.

Bottom line. Liquid filled rear tires make a big difference.

Tom
 
   / The little tractor that could. #2  
I think I am reliving your experience to the letter. I too have a lighter tractor and my box blade is almost useless. So... A few questions.

You say you drilled and added tire weights. What did you drill and what did you use for weights?

What method did you use for adding the liquid?

Do you think it was the liquid alone that did it, or was that just the last thing that finally brought your tire weight up to where it needed to be? In other words...if you had it to do again would you just add the liquid, or would you still add all of the other weight too?
 
   / The little tractor that could. #3  
What did you put in for liquid - it freezes in S. C., doesn't it?
 
   / The little tractor that could.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
If I had it to do again, I'd still add the weights, but I'd put the liquid in the tires sooner. I had some workout weights that I drilled to match holes that were already in the wheels and used 1/2" bolts to attach them. The workout weights weren't being used anymore since I bought one of those tension type workout machines. I used a 50 lb and a 25 lb weight on each wheel. Then I bolted two 25 lb weights to the hitch. That got some weight down low and behind the axle where it does a bit more good.

It does freeze in S.C., but barely. I put straight water in the tires. It worries me a bit to use straight water but we seldom have a cold spell long enough to freeze that much mass. Before that happens I'll put some anitfreeze in the wheels.

To put the water in I used an extension hose that screws onto the valve stem and simply screwed it onto the valve stem, removed the valve stem core in the extension, then adapted it to a water hose. Then I turned on the water and filled them about two thirds. I did let the air out first and stopped about half way through the fill to let more air out. To put the anit freeze in I'll use a pressure container that I use to spray the lawn with and the same valve stem extension. I can't get over how much the water helped my traction. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Tom, happy to be of some help.
 
   / The little tractor that could. #5  
I was thinking about antifreeze for the anti rust effects on the steel wheels.
David from jax
 
   / The little tractor that could. #6  
The story I've heard is that if you blow out that rear tire then you will have a whole lot of leaking fluid that animals want to drink but will kill them. So maybe AF is not the best choice, maybe it's fine.
 
   / The little tractor that could. #7  
"Red Beet Juice" is what my dealer put in my rear tires. It is apparently non toxic, doesn't freeze and is commercially available. I have no idea if it is really related to beets!

Ed
 
   / The little tractor that could. #8  
RV antifreeze is supposedly non toxic. I dont know if its ecologically or economically friendly though.
 
   / The little tractor that could. #9  
"Beet Juice" aka Rim Guard is heavier than other solutions and is a very popular solution used to load tires. Do a search here on TBN for Rim Guard and you will et plenty of information.
 
   / The little tractor that could. #10  
Ah, RV antifreeze. Good idea. I've used a few gallons in RVs but never in a tire. Cool.
 

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