There wasn't any sparks

gregsons · Dec 15, 2009

Oh after a long ordeal i dragged my tractor back from the shop where it sat for over three months. i drove it in and draged it back, so you know how im feeling right now. I put a new starter on it today finished hooking up the carb and choke but it would not fire up. no spark. this is not my strong point, the guy working on it was to fix the carb andfix some of the wiring and it looks like he at least changed some wires and put son tape on them but not sure of something happened there or not .
This is a 67 ford 3000 gas. how are they wired Battery - regualter - starter- ground. regulator - coil- distrib. generator? i checked some wires. not sure where to start any ideas?

mostly_gas · Dec 15, 2009

I would start at the distributor. Check for voltage to the distributor and points opening and closing (dwell meter is best to check points). Work your way back to the ignition switch, checking coil and ballast resistor along the way. Also make sure there is still voltage to the ignition in the start position.

Soundguy · Dec 16, 2009

ford gasser, 3 cyl, fire order 1-2-3

Make sure you have power at the points when they are open.. this system usually uses a resistor wire and 6v coil, and has ignition bypass on the solenoid.

if no power at the distrib , check to make sure points have not closed up.. if not, use a jumper wire in case ignition switch is bad. can also check continuity of coil primary, screw post to screw post.. should be low ohms.. but not short.. and not open.. say 1.5-2.5 .. secondary ohms could be 4k to 8k or so.. depends..

soundguy

gregsons · Dec 17, 2009

thanks for the help ill try this tomarrow if its not too cold

massey driver · Dec 19, 2009

My neighbour has a ford 8n[ he's not mechanically inclined] he couldn't get his tractor running no spark I tried to give as good advice to him as I could over the phone but he wasn't able to get it going.Finally he towed it to my place and left it for me to try to get it going.Anyway after many different attempts It still wouldn't start.Checked everything out with ohm meters test lights everything checked out good.In the end it turned out that the points themselves would self ground through the spring strap.Stranges thing I've ever seen so changed points and still going today.

Larry

BWBrown · Dec 20, 2009

I had a several year long running argument with a distributor complete with totally unpredictable erratic, usually non-existent, or very weak spark. Drove me NUTS!
Did a search for add on electronic ignition systems, found a system on ebay, under 100 bucks. Four days later I spent 30 minutes installing it - narry a hiccup since. Starts up first touch of the key in even the coldest weather.
Essentially it replaced the points, used its own replacement resistor and coil. The seller provided a new cap, rotor and plug wires.
This was on my IH 2500, but it might be worth looking into for your Ford.
Bob

gregsons · Dec 20, 2009

ok i fiured it out! i kept ckecking everything over and over again coil good points good wires on , but still nothing when to dealer for advice they had no ideas. went back took the distrib. cap off and found the prob. cear as day. the metal tab broke off the rotar. $8 later fired up better then it ever has i think the tractors running better now then it did in "68. thanks for the help guys.

mostly_gas · Dec 20, 2009

gregsons said:
ok i fiured it out! i kept ckecking everything over and over again coil good points good wires on , but still nothing when to dealer for advice they had no ideas. went back took the distrib. cap off and found the prob. cear as day. the metal tab broke off the rotar. $8 later fired up better then it ever has i think the tractors running better now then it did in "68. thanks for the help guys.

Gregsons you might want to see if there is excessive play in the distributer shaft ie it is ok to feel some play but if you can measure it with a scale it is excessive. If there is too much play, you will continue to break rotors.

gregsons · Dec 21, 2009

mostly_gas said:
Gregsons you might want to see if there is excessive play in the distributer shaft ie it is ok to feel some play but if you can measure it with a scale it is excessive. If there is too much play, you will continue to break rotors.

Thanks ill check it out,