Third cry for help

[davcog]

Would like to fab a belly grader blade for my BX 23. Know JD offers 60 in for 700 series but website pics don't give enough detail as to how it is mounted. Would like pics from JD 700 owner operator to see if it is even feasible to start this project.

 

[DennisFolsom]

I can't help you with the specifics, but the BX 23 seems like an awfully small tractor to mount a grader blade under. I suppose, if the blade is sized appropriately to the machine, it should work.

Good luck!

I just noticed. We're almost neighbors! I live in the southeast corner of Readfield.

 

[bcp]

I once had a "mower" with rear tiller and mid-mount grading blade that did good work, so a BX should be better. I've been thinking about doing the same.

Some of the two-bladed 3-point road graders are less than four feet long at the skids.

Do you plan to pull the blade, like a real road grader; or push it, like these?

Grouser Products, Fargo, North Dakota - Photo Gallery

Bruce

 

[radioman]

whatever you do- just make sure the pushing/pulling of the blade forces goes right to the frame of tractor. I would make sure there is a floating with expansion slot for lifting hooked up to the mower lift so there is nothing pushing on mower lift links.

 

[davcog]

I can't help you with the specifics, but the BX 23 seems like an awfully small tractor to mount a grader blade under. I suppose, if the blade is sized appropriately to the machine, it should work.

Good luck!

I just noticed. We're almost neighbors! I live in the southeast corner of Readfield.

I once had a "mower" with rear tiller and mid-mount grading blade that did good work, so a BX should be better. I've been thinking about doing the same.

Some of the two-bladed 3-point road graders are less than four feet long at the skids.

Do you plan to pull the blade, like a real road grader; or push it, like these?

Bruce

whatever you do- just make sure the pushing/pulling of the blade forces goes right to the frame of tractor. I would make sure there is a floating with expansion slot for lifting hooked up to the mower lift so there is nothing pushing on mower lift links.

Plan to "pull" the blade under load to avoid the issue of pressure on the lift links. Envision frame connection on front to do the hard work and a rear connection just to keep the blade from swaying out from under the tractor. LL would just work as depth control.

JD 700 series is about same size as my BX 23 that is why I was looking for an owner operator that could provide pics of an installed 60 in MM blade that JD offers.

Dennis did garden plot for co-worker in Readfield last year off RT 17.

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmmmmm,,,, tryin to envision this. The BX23 has very limited vertical space under it's belly,,, maybe 12" from bottom of frame rails to ground?? Possibly more like 10",,, not sure. But hey, I'll go with 12". So,, if I could lift the moldboard up until it hits the frame rails, and the moldboard is 8", the cutting edge would only be 4" off the ground. Won't you be high centered all the time?? Even if I shrink the moldboard to 6", I'm only lifting it 6" off the ground assuming I have 12" to work with and that I can lift it all the way to the frame rails. Seems very limiting. But I'd like to see it. :thumbsup:

 

[brinet]

Just came across this link. I have been thinking of the same thing for my BX2200 for almost a decade now. Yes, the BX series have low ground clearance, but would be perfect for leveling cart paths, trails, etc.

I have thought of a two piece blade that is hinged in the middle. As the blade rises, the top half would slide forward under the tractor. This would enhance clearance in addition to preventing dirt/gravel/etc from packing up under the tractor. Furthermore, as the main (lower) blade lifts, the top edge should follow the hinged upper half forward so that the blade would actually be horizontal (facing down) in the top position. This would eliminate the traveling clearance issue and allow the blade to be much taller than the clearance from the frame to the ground.

I would not use the existing lift for blade height adjustment. You would not get any down force other than the weight of the blade. However, with too much downforce, you may actually lift the wheels and loose traction!

Keep me up to date on you progress.

 

[brinet]

Ok, more thoughts:

As I have a BX2200, I had envisioned the subframe as attaching on the front and the sides. The sides have existing (tapped) holes where the FEL option would attach. I believe the BX23 has the loader subframe attached in this area.

A small vertical hydraulic cylinder on each side where the FEL uprights currently are could be used to raise/lower and tilt the blade. Your existing loader valve would work great. I would have to purchase a loader valve or some type of valve.

A small cylinder underneath could swivel the blade left and right.

This would allow full control of height, angle, and tilt. As there is not much room under the BX (as previously discussed) the cylinders would not need to be long, just skillfully placed.

 

[davcog]

Hmmmmmm,,,, tryin to envision this. The BX23 has very limited vertical space under it's belly,,, maybe 12" from bottom of frame rails to ground?? Possibly more like 10",,, not sure. But hey, I'll go with 12". So,, if I could lift the moldboard up until it hits the frame rails, and the moldboard is 8", the cutting edge would only be 4" off the ground. Won't you be high centered all the time?? Even if I shrink the moldboard to 6", I'm only lifting it 6" off the ground assuming I have 12" to work with and that I can lift it all the way to the frame rails. Seems very limiting. But I'd like to see it. :thumbsup:

Just came across this link. I have been thinking of the same thing for my BX2200 for almost a decade now. Yes, the BX series have low ground clearance, but would be perfect for leveling cart paths, trails, etc.

I have thought of a two piece blade that is hinged in the middle. As the blade rises, the top half would slide forward under the tractor. This would enhance clearance in addition to preventing dirt/gravel/etc from packing up under the tractor. Furthermore, as the main (lower) blade lifts, the top edge should follow the hinged upper half forward so that the blade would actually be horizontal (facing down) in the top position. This would eliminate the traveling clearance issue and allow the blade to be much taller than the clearance from the frame to the ground.

I would not use the existing lift for blade height adjustment. You would not get any down force other than the weight of the blade. However, with too much downforce, you may actually lift the wheels and loose traction!

Keep me up to date on you progress.

Thanks for your replies still researching and hoping to get pics of JD 700 series tractor with MM blade. JD 700 is approximately same size as BX 23. Now have a local contact # for a guy that buys and refurbishes smaller model JDs. He may have a JD 60 in MM blade.

Not overly concerned with traveling clearance. No obstacles over 6 in high.

 

[davcog]

Hmmmmmm,,,, tryin to envision this. The BX23 has very limited vertical space under it's belly,,, maybe 12" from bottom of frame rails to ground?? Possibly more like 10",,, not sure. But hey, I'll go with 12". So,, if I could lift the moldboard up until it hits the frame rails, and the moldboard is 8", the cutting edge would only be 4" off the ground. Won't you be high centered all the time?? Even if I shrink the moldboard to 6", I'm only lifting it 6" off the ground assuming I have 12" to work with and that I can lift it all the way to the frame rails. Seems very limiting. But I'd like to see it. :thumbsup:

Just came across this link. I have been thinking of the same thing for my BX2200 for almost a decade now. Yes, the BX series have low ground clearance, but would be perfect for leveling cart paths, trails, etc.

I have thought of a two piece blade that is hinged in the middle. As the blade rises, the top half would slide forward under the tractor. This would enhance clearance in addition to preventing dirt/gravel/etc from packing up under the tractor. Furthermore, as the main (lower) blade lifts, the top edge should follow the hinged upper half forward so that the blade would actually be horizontal (facing down) in the top position. This would eliminate the traveling clearance issue and allow the blade to be much taller than the clearance from the frame to the ground.

I would not use the existing lift for blade height adjustment. You would not get any down force other than the weight of the blade. However, with too much downforce, you may actually lift the wheels and loose traction!

Keep me up to date on you progress.

Thanks for your replies still researching and hoping to get pics of JD 700 series tractor with MM blade. :thumbsup:

JD 700 is approximately same size as BX 23. Now have a local contact # for a guy that buys and refurbishes smaller model JDs. He may have a JD 60 in MM blade.:drool:

Not overly concerned with traveling clearance. No obstacles over 6 in high to scale.:laughing: