This May Get Good !!!

tc35dforme · Apr 20, 2002

OKAY Folks,

I have recently become the owner of a new TC35D. I have been looking into backblades with hydraulic adjustments ( followup post in "attchments" ).

Now the problem...further reading here leads me to wonder....should forget about a deluxe rear blade, go with a simple ( read: cheap ) blade and upgrade to 'TNT' on the 3PT hitch?

I have a single rear hydraulic remote and can add a second for a couple of hundred bucks, plus some hoses and cylinders...hmmmm

What do you folks think ? Is 'TNT' as good as it seems ? Is it crazy to think about swapping back to the fixed OEM hitch side link when I want stable operation ( brush-hoggin' ) ? Is it too much work to switch ? Who runs 'TNT' with a rear blade ? Comments would be appreciated.

Bird · Apr 20, 2002

I've never had a plain rear blade, but sure have used a box blade a lot, and would think there might be some similarities. And for using a box blade, the hydraulic TNT is the best thing since nickle beer./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

EdKing · Apr 20, 2002

TNT is definitly the way to go. I have a box blade as well as a backblade and the TNT makes the operation 200% better. If you go with the hydraulic backblade, that is the only attachment the hydraulics work on. If you go TNT, you will have the hydraulic control no matter what attachment you use. I use the brush hog with the TNT attached as well, haven't noticed any difference in the stability of the operation.

John_Mc · Apr 21, 2002

<font color=blue>Is it crazy to think about swapping back to the fixed OEM hitch side link when I want stable operation ( brush-hoggin' )? Is it too much work to switch?</font color=blue>

I have TNT on my TC33D. Use it with a box blade and love it. I leave it on when bush hogging. My side link does leak down a bit over time, so I have to bump it back up occasionally, but it hasnot been a real problem. I suppose if I were using a rear finish mower, and wanted a perfect cut, I might switch back to the original side link.

John Mc

tc35dforme · Apr 22, 2002

Hey John,

Thanks for the info. I think this site has convinced me that TNT is the way to go.

Did you do yours as OEM or build-it up yourself. If you did it yourself, where did you get cylinders ?? I'm running a TC35D.

Not to offend, but....isn't the leak-down a function of the quality of the cylinder ( seals ) ?? I don't know a lot about hydraulics, but logic tells me that if you can maintain a good seal, the piston should stay put ?!?!

Soundguy · Apr 22, 2002

Valve will also be a concern, besides just the cylinder.

Soundguy

paccorti · Apr 22, 2002

This is exactly the setup that I run. I have a TC35D with a Landpride RB3584 with gauge wheel. I have two remotes and a tilt cylinder. I do experience some leakdown and it is through the valve. It is easy to switch to the solid sidelink. Takes me all of 2 minutes. For me this is a great setup for road grading.

Peter

tc35dforme · Apr 23, 2002

paccorti,

Where did you get your cylinders ?? Are they OEMish or did you build ( weld ) them yourself ?

I assume you like the LP RB3584 ??

paccorti · Apr 23, 2002

I think the tilt cylinder is OEM. It is small about 2" diameter with around 8" of travel. I think it was around $150 to 200. If I did it over again I'd get a larger diameter cylinder. Not so much for increased power (not a problem) but for it to move slower. Also, the increased diameter should lessen shock loads and valve leakdown. Ultimately, I had the dealer install a restricter in the hydraulic line. That slowed the tilt cylinder to a more manageable speed. I can't image road grading without this setup.

Peter