Thoughts on hydraulic top link..

[kw22614]

I know nothing about them, but it's quite a chore continually adjusting the top link manually. I have a BX1860 and use a fixed box blade. How would I install a hyd top link and would I need to add another hyd fitting to hook it to? Would I need to drain the entire HST, more hoses? What's a good brand for my small hp tractor? About how much of a financial investment? Sorry - I'm completely green on this so I guess I'm looking for a step-by-step.

 

[ovrszd]

You came to the right place. You'll get more opinions about TnT here than you can digest.

I built mine. We have a local vendor here on TBN that sells them, Brian, at Fit Rite Hydraulics. He'll be on here shortly.

Yes you need rear remotes to run the cylinder. Brian can answer any specific questions about that too.

You might want to consider a tilt cylinder as well. This would require a second rear remote. But it allows you to change the 3pt side to side as well.

Top link allows you to do this.




Side link allows you to do this.

 

[k0ua]

I know nothing about them, but it's quite a chore continually adjusting the top link manually. I have a BX1860 and use a fixed box blade. How would I install a hyd top link and would I need to add another hyd fitting to hook it to? Would I need to drain the entire HST, more hoses? What's a good brand for my small hp tractor? About how much of a financial investment? Sorry - I'm completely green on this so I guess I'm looking for a step-by-step.

You of course will need a set (2) hydraulic Quick Connects installed on your tractor with a control valve to operate them installed on your tractor in the power beyond circuit, then you purchase they hydraulic cylinder and run the hoses to the hydraulic Quick connects. That is one way.

Another way would be to put an Electric/hydraulic diverter valve on your Curl/Dump circuit on your existing Front End Loader. and use the existing valve to control the hydraulic flow when you need it by switching the electric switch to divert the flow to the rear outlets and controlling it with the curl/dump then switching the switch back to make the hydraulic circuit back to the normal loader curl/dump function. You can either do it yourself, with lots of reading or you can contact Brian at Fit Right Hydraulics and he will fix you up. Brian is on this forum all the time as MtViewRanch. The easiest path is just talk to Brian, But if you want to "know more" I will try to help you, and there are some hydraulic professionals lurking around here too. I am not, one of them but a lot of it has "soaked in" thru the years, (kinda like hydraulic fluid) Below is the link for Brians web site,

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

 

[murphy1244]

I have the Top link and I would not like to do with out it.

 

[ovrszd]

I'll also add, Brian will help you with advice and ideas and it's all free. If you want to purchase, then he'll help you with that as well.

A very good source for technical Hydaulic knowledge is "JJ". He'll find this thread shortly as well.

 

[DFB]

I have had my hyd toplink setup for at least 12 years now. Couldn't imagine any other way!

Not that I have forgotten though...we have 3 tractors at the orchard that don't have them

 

[kw22614]

thanks ovrszd, kOua & Murph. Just checked out Fit Rite site - I understand a lot more now. Been a 'self-proclaimed' mechanic for many a year and catch on quick. I see he has almost complete kits for tnt, but way out of my budget - at least for now (still a great wish!). Guess I'll be hopefully getting good at manual adjusting for quite a while. Thanks guys! KW

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I know nothing about them, but it's quite a chore continually adjusting the top link manually. I have a BX1860 and use a fixed box blade. How would I install a hyd top link and would I need to add another hyd fitting to hook it to? Would I need to drain the entire HST, more hoses? What's a good brand for my small hp tractor? About how much of a financial investment? Sorry - I'm completely green on this so I guess I'm looking for a step-by-step.

The best way to determine exactly what length top link you should have is to get the true mid stroke pin-pin length. The best way to get that distance is to have your box blade on the ground, level front-back and side-side. (both front and rear cutting edges touching the ground equally) With that distance the best working length of your hydraulic top link can be determined.

Depending on just what you want to do will determine what will be the best route for you to go. Costs will vary depending on what type of controls you want to use. I typically recommend a minimum or 2 sets of rear remotes, but what people want and end up with can vary quite a bit. Last year a sold a set with 4 sets of rear remotes, about a month later we ended up adding a fifth.

Best to really think about what you have planned to do.

 

[ovrszd]

Where ya been Brian????

 

[k0ua]

thanks ovrszd, kOua & Murph. Just checked out Fit Rite site - I understand a lot more now. Been a 'self-proclaimed' mechanic for many a year and catch on quick. I see he has almost complete kits for tnt, but way out of my budget - at least for now (still a great wish!). Guess I'll be hopefully getting good at manual adjusting for quite a while. Thanks guys! KW

KW, where you really start your mouth watering for a TNT kit is when you start doing a lot of blading. It is not just the hooking up, it is the constant need to adjust blade angles of attack, and side to side angle, and or hydraulic angle of a scrape blade too.. Then the constant getting on and off of the tractor gets old after while. You either get good at estimating the angles you need and get them set manually, or you wear your axe out getting on and off the tractor.