thoughts on oil-spitting 1920?

[dsutt]

I've got a ~1990 Ford 1920 with around 1700 hours on it. This past summer, I've done some 6 ft bush hogging that taxed it pretty good, but no problems experienced. This past couple of months, I've used it to do light stuff: piling sawdust...etc that really does not even move the temp needle off 0. Yesterday I ran the hog again for maybe half an hour and noticed it smoking more than normal and oil leaking down from the stack (and then smoking off when the stack got hot).
Can oil build up on top of valve guides during short runs and then leak through when they get hot....or maybe a valve guide broke loose on me....???
Any others out there with similar experience? It sounded normal and ran fine so I don't think I broke a valve.

 

[Dusty]

Oil can run down the valve guides, but usually this is insignificant compared to what you are describing. Oil running down the valve guides usually only causes some mild smoking of the engine. To have oil spewing out the exhaust, would have to be getting past the rings somehow. A large volume of oil wouldn't be able to be burned off in the combustion chamber, so it is blown out the exhaust along with the burned gasses. A broken oil ring will cause this type of problem. You don't mention if it is a gasoline or diesel engine, so there are a lot of variables. All of my experience with these types of oil burning problems are with gasoline engines.
Dusty

 

[AndyMA]

The 1920 is a disel. I have a 1987 2120 which is slightly larger. I don't have the oil drip down problem, but the engine definately smokes more now than it used to. Power is still good. Are you sure it is oil or perhaps is it unburnt diesel fuel? Do you get the feeling all cylinders are firing? If one cylinder is missing, then perhaps we are looking at unburnt diesel fuel. How much oil are we talking about. It would seem a compression test would let you know about things like valves and broken rings.

Andy

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto what Andy said. Check the slobber out and see if it is soot/water// oil / fuel.. etc..

Also.. hows your engine oil? Changed at correct intervals? Is she 'making' any oil?

Soundguy

 

[dsutt]

While running, I did stick my hand in front of the exhaust a couple times, expecting to have my hand sprinkled with oil, but it came back clean (and hot!). I have to go through it soon, meaning oil, filters, etc. I bought it last year and have not changed the oil yet, just check it every so often.
I don't have the Op manual - have to order that - so I really don't know what the oil change interval is.
There was no drop in power, so I think I've still got compression.

 

[Soundguy]

Wait.. say that again?.. You bought the tractor LAST YEAR and have not changed the oil?!?!

I change all fluids in any used tractor i buy cause I don't know what the previous owner put in.

Plus.. you tractor .. at a minimum.. should be getting a yearly oil change anyway...

So.. what if the prev owner just dumped some 80 cent 30w non detergent "S" rated oil int he engine before selling it? That''d mean that you ran on junk for a year... Yipes!

Good luck!

Soundguy

 

[RickB]

It is wet-stacking unburnt fuel. Not from the bush hogging but from the low RPM low operating temperature putting around you did before that. Another couple hours of actual work and it should clear up. Maybe you need a new thermostat. 10 minutes at medium engine speeds should make the temp gauge move a fair bit; even at little or no load. Do get a manual and do service it.

 

[Dusty]

While running, I did stick my hand in front of the exhaust a couple times, expecting to have my hand sprinkled with oil, but it came back clean (and hot!). I have to go through it soon, meaning oil, filters, etc. I bought it last year and have not changed the oil yet, just check it every so often. I don't have the Op manual - have to order that - so I really don't know what the oil change interval is.
There was no drop in power, so I think I've still got compression.

The cost of a filter and a few quarts of oil will go a long way to keeping your investment running. You should always change oil on any equipment that you don't know the service history of and then start keeping good records for the future.
Dusty

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Make sure you take the serial number with you for your 1920 when you get your filters. There are two different hydraulic filters for this tractor, they both appear the same size but the gasket is a different size on them. If you get the wrong one you will have air entering your hydraulic system making the loader jerk baddly when you try to use it.

I will second what Soundguy said, anytime you buy a used tractor you should check and replace the fluids and filters immediately. The only time I don't do this is if I buy from a dealer I know and trust but I do check the levels still to make sure. Also, buy a manual for this tractor and make sure you read it. There is a lot of useful information in them.

 

[Doc_Bob]

does not even move the temp needle off 0.

Not off of 0?? That would concern me if my tractor did not warm up under any condition. Cold engine=excess wear. I would check my thermostat.
Bob