3-Point Hitch Three point hitch -Basic Question

[speedyvelo]

ref: Kubota L6060
landpride rotary cutter
Land Pride Rear blade (RB2634)

I use the tractor mainly for snow removal. I had previous no experience with tractors. I got initially a Kubota B3350 but I had problems with the DPF and I change it for a Kubota L6060. From the beginning and thanks to this great forum and your advice, it help me from starting the tractor to use it for snow removal and I have to give a big THXS to all of you.

The question now is how do you attach the three point hitch? What I mean is the following: is there a special order like first upper beam etc etc or any tricks that simplify the process?. I know the best is to have a perfect flat surface, but sometimes is not the case and I do it on the field.

I got a Pat's quick attachment but it has been a pain with the bolts bending or getting loose etc so I went back to the basics without any quick attachment. In part some of the problems I have with Pat's may be due to the fact that the road is rocky and you can feel the vibrations all over the tractor, this is not a grass field.

Well it may not be any tricks but jic I post the question.

Guys, thanks again.

-=terry=-

 

[M5farms]

back up square , put lift arms on then hook top link.

 

[52wej]

It is best to get the lower lift arms attached first, then you can attach the top link. Depending upon the size of your implements, it is often helpful to have a 4 or 5 ft length of steel pipe or bar to incrementally move your implement so it attaches easily to the lower lift arms. W JONES

 

[CobyRupert]

One of the problem I had with Pat's is the bolts they supplied are super weak. I don't think the originals even had a grade associated with them, or was lesser than Graded 2. I replaced them with Grade 8 and they've been better. But still had one bend.

(IMHO). Make sure lift arm stabilizers have enough slack in them so they are wide/narrow enough for the implement you're attaching to. Connect a (bottom) draft arm first. Then you can back up or go forward (and lift/lower to some extent) so that other draft arm aligns. Then raise/lower so top link aligns, or adjust top link (screw in/out) so it aligns for connection. Once connected adjust top link so implement is at angle you want it to be when using.

When adjusting top link, make sure both ends don't spin when you're screwing/unscrewing it.

 

[JohnBuffaloMN]

You guys left out the cussing. I weave in at least a few good cuss words to assist in alignment of the pins.

I'm going to post this again - it has some good pictures and maybe some of the information is correct. I use the Pat's qkk htch now and it is a little easier/better, but still, a few cuss words are needed.

https://articles.extension.org/sites/default/files/NSTMOP Task Sheets Section 5 2013.pdf

 

[atitus74]

Don't forget connecting the PTO in there at some point. I found out the hard way that with the grass catcher its so close to the tractor that if you get it on the hitch first you won't have enough space left to connect the PTO... then you end up taking it off and doing it all over again!

 

[M5farms]

Don't forget connecting the PTO in there at some point. I found out the hard way that with the grass catcher its so close to the tractor that if you get it on the hitch first you won't have enough space left to connect the PTO... then you end up taking it off and doing it all over again!

shorten the PTO shaft. It needs to be able to move in or out . If it will not connect when it it lowered it will bottom out when lifted about half way .

 

[atitus74]

shorten the PTO shaft. It needs to be able to move in or out . If it will not connect when it it lowered it will bottom out when lifted about half way .

It moves in and out freely, by an inch and a half two inches or so when installed. The grass catcher sits on collapsible legs that get it to 95% of the operating height, so you don't have to raise it much with the turnbuckles to get the drive completely horizontal. For that reason even with the pto fully collapsed its about 1/2 in too long to get it attached. Its a simple thing once you realize it. just back up close and put the pto on first before attaching it and you are good to go.

 

[jeff9366]

L6060 has deluxe LOWER LINK STABILIZERS pin adjustable for width; latch adjustable for length.

Pull two pins (one on each side) on Stabilizer Arms for LOWER LINKS. Spread arms to tires. Insert pin on each side into first or second hole. One or the other set of these paired pin holes will set LOWER LINKS appropriate width for most implements.

Back tractor to implement. LOWER LINKS should fit into clevis "ears" if you have removable draft pins, or be just outside fixed, bolted-on draft pins, the other alternative.

Unlatch and lengthen/shorten horizontal LOWER LINK length adjustment within two inch adjustment space available.

Connect the left LOWER LINK first, which does NOT have vertical adjustment.
(Pull stabilizer pin to adjust width, if necessary)

Connect the right LOWER LINK second, using the screw adjustment in the center of the right LIFTING ROD to set correct vertical height.
(Pull stabilizer pin to adjust width, if necessary)

TOP LINK last.



~~~ Lube connecting pins. I use spray DRY LUBE which does not collect dust, but any lube will do.


VIDEO: How to attach a 3 point mounted implement - YouTube

 

[M5farms]

It moves in and out freely, by an inch and a half two inches or so when installed. The grass catcher sits on collapsible legs that get it to 95% of the operating height, so you don't have to raise it much with the turnbuckles to get the drive completely horizontal. For that reason even with the pto fully collapsed its about 1/2 in too long to get it attached. Its a simple thing once you realize it. just back up close and put the pto on first before attaching it and you are good to go.

as long as you're happy , I would have a cut off wheel on it before dark if it were mine.