tie rod dust seal

[kbota]

When I bought my L3010, one of the tie rod end dust seals was torn, and I was trying to figure out how to deal with it. One weekend, I managed to bend that same tie rod on a pine stump hidden in vines. Figured the tie rod would have to come off to have hope of straightening it, so with my Son's help, we removed it, and straightened it, and re-installed. In the process, the tie rod removal fork damaged the other dust seal.

I decided I would attempt to replace the dust seals, so ordered two along with the retaining clips. Sorta been dreading the project, but finally decided to either fix it or plan on replacing the entire tie rod. Pulled the tie rod back off and removed the remaining pieces of dust seal. After getting the tie rod in the vice and looking things over, it was a snap to replace the dust seals.

Okay, it is difficult to grease them prior to install, and impossible after you install. Found a "grease needle" at NAPA, and bought one. It snaps on the grease gun, and you simply give the dust seal a "shot" with the needle, and then pump it up. It will self relieve if you pump to much grease in, and the grease the "relieves" back out the needle puncture will harden and seal the tiny opening. The needle I bought is probably .5mm. About the size of a pentel mechanical pencil lead. Be sure to use a lightweight grease.

The grease needles are cheap (2 for $5)
Everyone might think about using these to put grease in the dust cover for preventative maintenance every couple of years.

Comments or suggestions are appreciated.

k

Also posted in Kubota forum

 

[RalphVa]

I'd have replaced both tie rods. If they don't have grease nipples, don't grease them. More damage has been done by overgreasing tie rod ends than undergreasing. Why? Because overgreasing eventually damages the dust seals.

There are tie rod removal tools that won't damage the tie rod boots. Use a forked tool and plan on replacing the tie rod.

Ralph

 

[marq]

Not so sure about the potential damage to non-grease components. Assuming there is some correlation to automotive components the only difference between greasable and non greasable is the duty cycle, being that most cars do not come with the zerk fitting and most trucks do, nothing more. The grease is the same and excess grease simply spills out the relief port, again assuming they are the same as automotive parts.

Agree there is a tie rod press, similar to a bearing or steering wheel puller that is less damaging to the tie rod for removal.

 

[kbota]

I'd have replaced both tie rods. $150 vs $7

If they don't have grease nipples, don't grease them. More damage has been done by overgreasing tie rod ends than undergreasing. Why? Because overgreasing eventually damages the dust seals.

I cannot imagine leaving them dry. With power steering, the ball/socket would gall in short order which would require total replacement
The dust covers are simply made with an interference fit around the tie rod ball shaft, so any "extra" grease will simply squeeze out. Short of a power grease gun that might expand the dust cover with excess volume, I don't see any possibility of damaging the dust cover with to much grease using a hand grease gun.

There are tie rod removal tools that won't damage the tie rod boots. Use a forked tool and plan on replacing the tie rod.

The way the Kubota tie rod dust covers are made, the "forked" tie rod separation tool will always damage the dust cover. Unless I'm missing something about the proper use of the tool.

Thanks for your thoughts

k

 

[mrutkaus]

Kioti tie rod bent, ignored it, reset toe in, works great.

Rubber boots on tie rod ends, other things: refill with grease with needle/fingers as applicable, clean off exterior, apply "GOOP" freely, wrap tightly (if you are tightly wrapped!) with duct tape, let dry couple days. Good as new?

Mike