Tie Rod out of adjustment

[TMAC]

It's been awhile since I've posted but sure feels good to be back on TBN again. So much has happened since I was last on. I must say wow what a TEXAS SIZE team effort on the bridge for DON(txdon). Well done!!!! Sorry for the long post but here goes.

Took my TC45DA SS down to the dealer last Tuesday morning to get the front end looked at and my 50hr service done for free labor just the cost of filters and fluid.

If not for the front end being a little out of adjustment I would've picked up the filters myself and done the service but what the heck it's her first 57hrs and labor was free.

<font color="red">Anyway my point of this post was to ask if anyone has had problems with their TC's toeing out of adjustment? And do you think this could be more so Super Steer Related than not? </font>

I noticed mine was really out of wack the last time I cut with it. It was really noticeable when I went to make a turn. One tire was no where near in the same turning angle as the other.

I called the dealer today and it's ready to pick up so tomorrow I'm going to pick her up. He told me that the left tie rod was 3/4" out of adjustment and said he thinks Super Steers tend to have a better chance of this issue happening due to the over traveled steering. I'm just happy she's fixed and ready to start working again. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Happy tractoring all!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[TCBoomer]

My TC21D was off by about 3/8", and that was when it was new...I checked it right after it was delivered and I reset it to <0.00(slightly toed in) Bet the PDI boys at the dealer rarely ever check it, if at all /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Yours may have been off when delivered too. I'm not really familiar with SS but I've seen it operate. Anything that puts a strain or impact on the steering linkage, could cause it to change the total toe reading. I've smacked a car tire with a rubber mallet several times while it was on the alignment rack and it would affect the readings every time. The amount of change was minimal(0.01/0.02*, and some of the change is normal due to design clearances), but none the less, it changed. Multiply this change X many many impacts, and eventually it could add up to a significant #...like the 3/4" you mention. Everytime you jar the front tires...rough terrain, rocks, curbs, holes, etc, there is a chance you might affect the toe setting. Even more so, if you do alot of FEL work. The extra weight just amplifies the shock, all the way to the steering linkage. It doesn't mean you need to babysit your wheel alignment, just keep it in mind if a situation arises like you had.

Checking toe on your tractor might be worth adding to your maintainence list...say every 200 or 300 hrs(IIRC somewhere it is listed as a item to check), but I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if I didn't. It mostly depends how rough you are with the machine.

BTW...and you thought your post was long?? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I can get a little long winded myself...
if you haven't noticed /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[dliston]

OK. Here is something I didn't know to check - how do I check it?

Doug

 

[TMAC]

Correction on my last post TCBoomer mine wasn't 3/4" it was 3/8" as well. Thought I edited that when I was changing my spelling on another word yesterday.

I got her home this morning and looked at my tie rods. He told me they adjusted the left side from the drivers seat view. But as I looked at the right tie rod I noticed the dang nuts were both loose. I spun them with one finger. Called the dealer and they said they never touched that side. Anyway I've tightened them up since then. They must loosen up over time after all the vibration and type of terrain one works on as you said. Isn't that the manner of all things though.

Also sorry for kind of posting the same issue as you did earlier. After I posted I realized how much you guys already talked about some of the answers I was looking for. Thanks for posting though. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

And yes tie rod "watch" will be in effect on the maintence list from now on. Thanks!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[TCBoomer]

Easy to do...

Park on a level surface with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Use a tape measure and measure the distance between the front tires(using the wheel and not the tire would be more precise) in 2 places, one in the front and one in the rear. What you need to do is make sure you use the centerline of the axle since the wheel is set with a positive camber. Make sure you take the reading in the same position on both front and rear. If I could post a drawing, I would, but I don't even know how to make a drawing on this laptop /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Think of it this way...compare a clock to your tire. Measure at 3:00 for the front and 9:00 for the rear. Sometimes it might be difficult to measure at those points due to driveline components or something being in the way. So then you have to improvise and calculate the differences. On my TC21 and my new TC24, I can get a straight shot at both front and rear.

With these 2 measurements, subtract one from the other. For example...say the front measurement was 4' 1/8" and the rear was 4' 1/4", then the front wheels are toed in 1/8". If the #'s were reversed, then the front wheels would be toed out 1/8". I would shoot for 0(both measurements equal) or slightly toed in, but even the 1/8 toe in is OK and in spec.

Hope this helps, but ask me if you need any clarification.

Bob

 

[TCBoomer]

Ahh, sounds better...3/8 is probably what they set it to when it was built. 3/4 did sound a little excessive, but if the nuts loosened up, it could have been even worse. I'm surprised the dealer said they didn't touch the other side... even if they didn't, they SHOULD HAVE at least checked to make sure EVERYTHING was tight. Since you had an alignment issue, all the hardware should have been checked for proper torque. I don't want to knock your dealer, so I won't. Now that you know a little about alignments(read my other post to dliston) you can do it yourself. Good thing you saw the other tie rod nuts loose, because it would have eventually caused problems.

<font color="blue">Also sorry for kind of posting the same issue as you did earlier.

<font color="black">Don't sweat it...your situation was in reguards to a problem you noticed. Mine was a design issue and I was interested as to what purpose it served.

Glad I could help...

Bob

 

[RickB]

It probably was out of spec from day one. If it ain't loose or bent, and the paint isn't cracked anywhere, it simply was wrong from the get-go. PDI Should have picked that up, but I'll bet not one in 100 SuperSteer or not get checked for anything more than loose hardware. That is the reality of it.

 

[TMAC]

Thanks Rick. I wouldn't doubt it one bit. But I checked all nuts and bolts shortly after putting 20 hours on it and everything seemed to be tight until the 50 hour service came up. I don't know but now that I'm on top of things and more aware I feel much better. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[JimR]

Another way to measure the toe in is to jack up the front end and using a scriber on a wooden block. Just spin the wheel and mark a line around the tire in the center. Then measure both front and rear and subtract the difference. The rear should be a little bit longer than the the front. Mine is set at 1/16". Another note on turning and the tire angle. Whichever way you turn the tire on the inside will be turning more of a radius than the outside tire.