TIPS ON TSC 4.5 INCH METAL BANDSAW
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I was at tractor supply and they had a 36" metal bending break made by Clark , Harbour freight has one similar to it, I was wondering if anyone has one of them or used one? If so will they bend sheet metal the thickness of auto body panel and can you get a good sharp 90 degree angle on the metal. I talked to the salesman at tsc and he said that it wouldn't but I got the feeling that he really didn't know and I wouldn't want to get one just to see if he was right or wrong and find that it wouldn't. Is the brakes that have the moveable fingers worth the extra you would pay for them? Sorry for side tracking the thread but some of you were mentioning harbour freight and northern so I thought some of you might know.
MrJimi
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
Zick said:If your up around this area for any reason, bring it with. I'd buy it!
Right
Like Bob Barker always says
Come on down
It's still for sale
Jim
AlanB
Elite Member
toy said:
Yes, I have one, have not done any body panels with it, but did my AC doghouse. I think it was 22 gauge.
I think they go on sale at HF for $179, hard to beat at that price.
Not sure if I have any auto body steel downstairs, will try and remember to look, and can snap shots of it, but I do not see a problem.
wafwot
New member
There is a Yahoo Group specifically geared for this saw. Search for '4x6bandsaw' at Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums & communities and after joining you can read posts from others that have this saw. There are many modifications you can make on it, starting with replacing the flimsy stand it comes with. The first thing many recommend doing is open the gear box and check for crud left over from manufacturing. I own one of these saws but it gets very little use after buying a Milwaukee portable bandsaw.
AlanB
Elite Member
toy said:
Sorry for the delay, I forgot about this post.
Looking on Whitney
Flat Sheet Metal - 12"W x 24"L : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories
Looks like they are saying 22 gauge, so I would say between 20 and 24 is probably reasonable estimates, and that brake should do that thickness well. I thought I had some old deck lid material a guy I was teaching to weld left here, but I think he took it all back (or I threw it) as I did not see any.
I can take some shots if you would like, but not sure what exactly you would like to see. I am having a hard time resizing photos at the moment. (hi Zuke program, low tech operator) Adobe photoshop for those interested.
but PM me so we can not distract any more from this thread (or start one on the brake) and we can go forward.
I did the C's, S's and other mounts to do my AC doghouse and it handled them fine. Obviously it is not as nice as a box type brake, but for limited home shop use, it is a pretty decent peice. The scary part is I do not think I can buy the metal, for the price of the brake........
We are sending our livelyhoods to China, and we are helping to wrap, package and ship them on their way. Of course, that said, I probably could not buy a Tennsmith or Pexto for less then $1000 (if I could find one that cheap) and it allows me to do my own work here.
I didn't see it anywhere in here, so thought I'd point out the 4x6 Bandsaw FAQ
After doing a bunch of research, I wound up with the same Clarke from TSC as the one that started this thread.
There are basically two models:
The Clarke, every current Grizzly, and the HF red saw are all the former style, which tends to be the preferred one.
The HF green saw is the latter style.
Within the cast blade guide group they're all functionally identical (I put grizzly parts in my TSC saw), but the execution of details like handwheels, bearing and seal quality, etc varies widely.
I wish my TSC saw was a Grizzly. I had no idea how much better the execution could be until I walked into the Grizzly showroom. Their version is far nicer.
My saw leaks oil around the driven bandwheel when I leave it in the "down" position. I let it get too low once, and it cost me the large gear (which is why I have a Grizzly gear in there). Other than that, it works like a champ.
Oh, and like others have said: a bi-metal blade changed everything. It cuts so much better with the bi-metal blade.
/chris
After doing a bunch of research, I wound up with the same Clarke from TSC as the one that started this thread.
There are basically two models:
- Those with cast iron blade guides that slide inside the head casting
- Those with sheet metal blade guides that bolt outside the head casting
The Clarke, every current Grizzly, and the HF red saw are all the former style, which tends to be the preferred one.
The HF green saw is the latter style.
Within the cast blade guide group they're all functionally identical (I put grizzly parts in my TSC saw), but the execution of details like handwheels, bearing and seal quality, etc varies widely.
I wish my TSC saw was a Grizzly. I had no idea how much better the execution could be until I walked into the Grizzly showroom. Their version is far nicer.
My saw leaks oil around the driven bandwheel when I leave it in the "down" position. I let it get too low once, and it cost me the large gear (which is why I have a Grizzly gear in there). Other than that, it works like a champ.
Oh, and like others have said: a bi-metal blade changed everything. It cuts so much better with the bi-metal blade.
/chris
For what it's worth, I cut all my tube, (round & square) plus heavy plate and light guage tin with a metal cutting wheel in a table saw. Its far better a tool than a band saw for precision metal cutting. Its a Craftsman from 25 years ago and does all metal work for me.
I would not waste my money on a band saw because the cost of a good one is 10 times the cost of a used radial arm or table saw. Metal cutting wheels are inexpensive, easy to change, run true, and the saw can be converted to stone or wood in a very shart amount of time. No special cutting oil needed either. Put a wide grinding wheel in it, too for sharpening mower blades. You can buy the wide wheel cutout / insert at any Sears store.....
I would not waste my money on a band saw because the cost of a good one is 10 times the cost of a used radial arm or table saw. Metal cutting wheels are inexpensive, easy to change, run true, and the saw can be converted to stone or wood in a very shart amount of time. No special cutting oil needed either. Put a wide grinding wheel in it, too for sharpening mower blades. You can buy the wide wheel cutout / insert at any Sears store.....