Chains Tire Chains

GoodGuy · Jun 21, 2004

Last winter when moving snow in my 500' slight uphill crushed rock driveway I found myself sliding backwards down the drive on the ice with next to no control. There were even situations where the tractor would not pull itself up with the diff locked. (no load) I decided that chains were in order but when I priced them thru the JD Dealer, he told me $1600cdn for the rears. Here in N.S. we only have the dealers & local farm supply stores. The farm supply stores don't have a listing for my R4's that are 17.5 X 14's. My question is: (1) Do you guys/gals feel that chains do the job. (2) Do you run them on the front, rear or both (3) Do you bite the bullet and buy them or have you made your own, and if that's the case, I would appreciate any info you could share with me. Your thoughts & info...........
Thanks
Eric

Jim_Fisher · Jun 21, 2004

( I decided that chains were in order but when I priced them thru the JD Dealer, he told me $1600cdn for the rears. )

Not sure what that equates to with the exchange rate but I suspect that they must be gold plated.

Try this web site: TireChains.com

I haven't bought a set of chains from them (had some old grader chains that fit my turf tires perfectly) but I have bought tighteners and a coupling link. You'll probably find what you are looking for under the Grader and Heavy Equipment section.

( (1) Do you guys/gals feel that chains do the job. )

Yes. They make snow removal much more efficient. No sliding out of control on hills and very little spinning.

( (2) Do you run them on the front, rear or both)

I have a set that will fit the front tires but I have never needed them. Keep in mind that I live in Pennsylvania. In the great white north, you might find them useful.

Jim Fisher

beenthere · Jun 21, 2004

I made tire chains for the rears on my 4300. The concern I had on my R-4's (size just a hair larger than yours at 19.5-15.00) was the tight space between side wall and fender, even when the rims were at the widest spacing (gained about an inch when turned). I could not find a chain for the tire (did not try tirechain.com) that did not come down the side of the tire (too far IMO), so that is the reason I made my own. In the design, I lengthened the side chain and shortened the cross chain, so the side chain would ride in the depression (dip) at the ends of the lugs. They work great, after much concern on my part that they might slip off (over) the tire. With all the deep snow and thick ice we had two years ago last winter, their performance was 100%.

Cost of the chain materials was under $250 5 years ago when I made them (used them one winter since). I went to a supplier of trucks and industrial movers, that usually make up their own and repair their own. I took the cross link bulk chain (9/0 hardened) to a welder to have them torched to length, and then borrowed a tool to clamp the hooks tight that fasten the cross chain to the 6/0 side chains. On ice, they are a necessity.
Now I have a black topped (asphalt) drive and will need to learn how and what to do to maintain the driveway during winter.

NIXON · Jun 22, 2004

Eric . A site to add to our list of tire chain makers is
ST. Pierre manufacturing . www.stpierreusa.com
Ph# 1 508 853 8010
I bought a set of their double ring chains and spring chain tensioners last year . They were fast on delivery and very courteous and helpful .
I find that they are great in snow , ice ,and mud. I only run a set on the rears . John

GoodGuy · Jun 22, 2004

Thanks for post. Appreciate it !! If I buy the V-Link pair for $168us which works out to about $227cdn, I'll have to find out shipping and by the way what else do I need ?? What do you recommend for tighteners ?? The quote from the dealer that was so high here was because he said they didn't have any common size to fit my R4's and that they would have to be custom made. Thanks for this group, pays to have connections, eh ??
Regards
Eric

NIXON · Jun 22, 2004

( What do you recommend for tighteners ?? )

the folks you buy your chains from will be able to supply you with the needed tensioners . John

Jim_Fisher · Jun 22, 2004

Eric,

I use the spring adjusters which appear on the same page as the chains. They do a good job of keeping the chains tight against the tires and away from the fenders. They seem to be quite durable.

When I had my 4200, I used three tarp straps on each wheel and it worked just fine. Nothing high tech required. Just need to keep the slack out because of the close clearance.

Jim

Kubbruce · Jun 23, 2004

Living in Northern Vermont snow and ice are daily. I have used both front and rear chains on my R-4's. I first bought the rears and used them for three seasons. They worked ok but man they were heavy to install almost a two man job. Last season I bought a pair of fronts and it was excellent. I was able to push the banks of my driveway back better and I was always going where I wanted to go. My vote would be to go with fronts only.

Ole_Hickory · Jun 23, 2004

My vote would be to go with fronts only 

I agree,but if anyone is considering putting tire chains on the front tires and have R-1 tires be careful when you turn the steering wheel all the way to one side the chains can make contact with the tractor and catch on the bottom of the engine side cover's or the tubing etc.I know from experience.

KubotaSteve · Jun 23, 2004

I used springs from an old trampoline. Took a large washer and drilled holes around it then hooked the springs in the washer and then to the chains. It worked like a charm. After Isabelle came through last year, I seem to have an abundance of trampoline springs. Probably around 40, couldn't find the others /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif.