All, I looked around to finger out how to change the boots on these (TN 55, 60, 65, 70, 75 cab models). All I learned is that others asked similar questions as well as a locking pin problem (locks the joy stick motion -- sliding collar on the joystick) but didn't list what they did or how they did it. So, to not loose the 'lessons learned', as the repair manual wasn't any help, I'll post my findings. YMMV on non-cab models, but probably not by much.
1. Joystick. To replace the boot do NOT try to take the knob/handle off. It's splined (pressed) on to the shaft. Will not help, as the sliding lock ring can't come off that direction anyhow. The joystick shaft is connected to the mechanism via threads and loctite (or similar thread locking compound). I used 2 Vise-grips to get it off. Had to clean up the new custom knurling. As the hand throttle knob is also pressed onto the throttle shaft, you can't take the 'console board' off. You take the Phillips screws out of the console and maneuver it enough to get the bottom of the boot over the joystick mechanism housing.
2. The joystick lock ring is attached to a sliding pin at the bottom of the joystick. When the ring is slid down the pin sticks out the bottom of the mechanism locking it up. Once you get the boot off you can see a slot head screw (decent sized) in the slot, and screwed into the pin (the screw is what the sliding lock ring acts on). When I reinstalled mine I used some green loctite (the weak stuff). I figured it was enough strength. If you tighten the screw too much it binds up on the shaft. I'm doing this from a week old memory, so fine details may be a little off. You get this far you'll see how it works.
3. Shifter boots are nothing special after doing the joystick. The base of the boots is retained by Phillips screws. You have to remove the shafts and slide the boots from the bottom of the shafts. The bottom of the shafts attach to the rest of the linkage (bell crank) by sliding into sockets with a locking bolt (bolt is similar to a set screw in that it tightens into a groove or divot on the shaft). Easy access from underneath.
4. Foot throttle boot. The T top of the throttle is held on by a roll pin. If you've been wanting to own a set of roll pin punches now is your opportunity. Some of you didn't even know they existed. Anyhow, tap out the roll pin and the T comes right off. Replace the 2 (yes, 2) boots. I gave up on the outer one seating on bottom ring and left it mounted to only the upper ring.
You can't get replacement floor mats for the early cab. The light lense is ridiculously priced (especially for the dismal glow it puts out). As was the windsheild washer bottle. I'll be sourcing answers for these seperately.
I do wonder why the light swtich next to the joystick turns on 2 lights (the white lights next to the headlights). Zero value to those. And the switch shows the work lights on the front top of the cab. Stranger things have been wondered about Italian mechanical devices. And that's not one that matters.
I hope you find some use for these.
1. Joystick. To replace the boot do NOT try to take the knob/handle off. It's splined (pressed) on to the shaft. Will not help, as the sliding lock ring can't come off that direction anyhow. The joystick shaft is connected to the mechanism via threads and loctite (or similar thread locking compound). I used 2 Vise-grips to get it off. Had to clean up the new custom knurling. As the hand throttle knob is also pressed onto the throttle shaft, you can't take the 'console board' off. You take the Phillips screws out of the console and maneuver it enough to get the bottom of the boot over the joystick mechanism housing.
2. The joystick lock ring is attached to a sliding pin at the bottom of the joystick. When the ring is slid down the pin sticks out the bottom of the mechanism locking it up. Once you get the boot off you can see a slot head screw (decent sized) in the slot, and screwed into the pin (the screw is what the sliding lock ring acts on). When I reinstalled mine I used some green loctite (the weak stuff). I figured it was enough strength. If you tighten the screw too much it binds up on the shaft. I'm doing this from a week old memory, so fine details may be a little off. You get this far you'll see how it works.
3. Shifter boots are nothing special after doing the joystick. The base of the boots is retained by Phillips screws. You have to remove the shafts and slide the boots from the bottom of the shafts. The bottom of the shafts attach to the rest of the linkage (bell crank) by sliding into sockets with a locking bolt (bolt is similar to a set screw in that it tightens into a groove or divot on the shaft). Easy access from underneath.
4. Foot throttle boot. The T top of the throttle is held on by a roll pin. If you've been wanting to own a set of roll pin punches now is your opportunity. Some of you didn't even know they existed. Anyhow, tap out the roll pin and the T comes right off. Replace the 2 (yes, 2) boots. I gave up on the outer one seating on bottom ring and left it mounted to only the upper ring.
You can't get replacement floor mats for the early cab. The light lense is ridiculously priced (especially for the dismal glow it puts out). As was the windsheild washer bottle. I'll be sourcing answers for these seperately.
I do wonder why the light swtich next to the joystick turns on 2 lights (the white lights next to the headlights). Zero value to those. And the switch shows the work lights on the front top of the cab. Stranger things have been wondered about Italian mechanical devices. And that's not one that matters.
I hope you find some use for these.
