TN60A starting problems

[klingen]

My TN60 won't turn over at all but has plenty of battery power. I am suspecting the mechanical shuttle safety switch. Anybody know where it is located or how to bypass it? The mechanical linkage disappears inside the transmission housing with no sign of a switch.

(It sucks when you don't have a shop manual)

thanks

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Since you found the right section I will post this link here as it will answer your NSS questions. The switch is rather inexpensive and only has two screws and a connector so it is rather easy to replace.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/91388-nh-electrical-systems-junk.html

RickB is a wealth of information on NH tractors so pay attention to his post.

 

[klingen]

Robert, thanks for finding that post. I did a couple of searches before posting but was probably not using good search terms or was searching in the JD forum (lol, chalk one up for the stupid people).

So, obviously I need to pull the tire (at least they aren't loaded). In the mean time, to try and get this thing started today. Any tips on bypassing all the safety switches? Seems like the safety circuits should be tied into the ignition system under the hood. If the switches are all NO i should be able to just disconnect them, right? Man, without a wiring diagram...

Cuppa coffee and then go crawl around under it.

Cheers, klingen

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I think I was able to just jump across the solenoid to start the tractor when my NSS kicked the bucket but I can't remember for sure.

As for a permanent way to bypass the switch, I would have no idea without actually looking at a diagram or playing around with the wires to see what would happen. Hopefully someone else will chime in and help answer that question.

 

[RickB]

The NSS is a ball-type switch screwed into the side of the transmission housing aft of the mechanical shuttle lever probably 3 inches or so from the top edge of the housing. If your TN still has the mechanical PTO lever to the left of the seat, you should be able to look down through the slot and see the switch. As the switch is above the oil level in the housing, they can occasionally stick, or get a little condensation frozen around the ball. If something like this has happened, working the shuttle in and out of either F or R may unstick it. I would develop the habit of setting the park brake and leaving the unattended tractor with the shuttle in 'N' especially in colder weather. That allows the switch to rest closed rather than resting open and being required to open immediately when you land in the seat and shift to 'N'. I could tell you how to bypass the NSS but I won't. If you figure it out on your own, your life (and maybe others) is in your hands, not mine. Bypass starting injured a friend, another acquaintance, and killed a person on the other side of town, all within 3 years.

Edit: If your TN(a) has a servo-applied PTO (small lever to the right side of the seat, probably on cab tractors only) be sure the PTO icon is not lit when you key up the tractor. This would mean the PTO NSS is not fully returning which may be corrected by lengthening the PTO cable or adjusting the switch. That switch is directly under the tractor next to the front driveshaft shield. I only had that happen a time or two.

 

[klingen]

R & R, thanks for taking the time to respond to my problem!

Access is surpisingly better from within the tirewell. OK well I didn't actually take the tire off since I just fit between the tire and fender, propping myself up on the axle housing (maybe you guys are a bit chunckier than me?) (or it might be those 14.9x34 tires have a lot of room inside 'em). The fuel tank is still in the way but I can get my hand in there. Two machine screws get the PTO SS off pretty easily. The quality of plastic/rubber parts on this model seems to be less than par... the little irritating things like the rubber bellows on this PTO SS which is all degraded on a two year old tractor.
Since the rubber moisture bellows was shot on this switch I first thought this was my problem. After pulling the connector off of it and jumping the connector with a short wire, still no luck. (Note: This switch is a double pole or dual switch for both the safety interlock and the console telltale light)

Reaching in further and up high on the transmission housing (Thx, Rick) I could just pry the connector off of the Mechanical Shuttle Safety Switch(MSSS). I was then able to fish the detached connector up through an unused control lever slot and get to it topside just below the seat. Viola! Jump it with a short piece of insulated and stripped wire and everything is good!

So...Upshot of all this is: I got the tractor started and the snow and drainage cleared so the greenhouse won't flood when it rains later this week. Wheww! Now I just have to figure out how to get that MSSS out of there when I get the new one. It is just going to be one of those struggles, cuz I sure don't want to take the fuel tank out!

Rick, It was stupid of me to even ask about bypassing the SS's. I forget that there are people with no common sense in the world because realistically you can only do so much to make a tractor safe and certainly _never_ completely safe. That is why I ALWAYS put the Mechanical Shuttle in neutral and set the parking brake before shutting it off. OTOH Why would anyone start a tractor without the clutch in? (or turn the key while standing on the ground) bet nobody does THAT, right?

Thanks again all!
Cheers, klingen

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I don't consider myself chunky but I have 16.9-30's on my TN and they are set in as narrow as can be so there is no squeezing in. It only takes a few minutes to pop the wheel off anyway though and is nice to be able to shine the light where you are working so you can see with your eyes and not have to guess by feel. I tried just reaching in at first but decided I was going to bust up my knuckles and still not have a clue what I was doing as I just couldn't see well enough.

You could have jumped across the solenoid to start the tractor though. Just make sure the key is at the on position and all the gears are in neutral. If for some reason you are in a bind it is much easier then messing around with the NSS.

 

[klingen]

Robert, Yeah I was kinda taking a risk there that ya'all had a sense of humor with the chunky comment... Anyway, my 380/85R34's are set pretty wide so the inside clears a 49" bed and I gained 5" in ground clearance using them instead of the stock tires (don't ask what the custom rims cost). I think the fuel tank on the TN60 might be mounted higher than on the TN65 I used to have. I mean I had to _shove_ my forearm in there to get to the Shuttle SS. In my case I don't see where it would make a ton of difference if I took the tire off. Using a cordless drill with a flexible shaft driver on it made short work of the machine screws holding the PTO SS on. That MSSS is sure a long ways in there tho... good to hear from Rick that it is above the fluid level.

come to think of it, I know the fuel tank is different from the TN65 because when i bought it I had them remove the tank from behind the seat and install the filler neck from my old TN65 on the new TN60. This fuel tank has better ground clearance but smaller capacity.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I wasn't bothered by the chunky comment.

I was wondering about that tire size as I have never heard of a TN having that size tire. Do you happen to have any pics of your setup?

 

[klingen]

Really? i thought you looked kinda chunky in that picture in the...never mind.

Hmmm...no pictures of the rig and I ain't taking any tonight but i will see what I can do and post them to this thread perhaps?

I picked out that particular tire after perusing about a thousand tire charts. Its a Michelin Agribib. It just fits with about 2" clearance from the fenders. I did have to get a custom rim made to mount it on the TN60. You do have to have a carefully matched front tire if you have FWD (5% lead on the front if I remember right) One problem with my setup is that because I need inside clearance of 49" my overall width is at about 79" on the rear and with a 72" bucket it isn't great for grading materials very far since the tire runs into the cut. No I don't want a 7' bucket but i wouldn't trade my 4-in-1 bucket for ANYTHING. Best investment I ever made, if you do any bucket work at all, get one. Ok, OK, I can feel the request for pictures coming already.