TnT Tilt cylinder stroke length

[bubbacuse77]

Anybody who has a top and tilt they have bought or made please tell me if they have a 4" or 6" stroke on the cylinder. It seems 4" is common but I'm wondering if 6" wouldn't be better if it fits?
I already built my top link and that works good but now I need to order the tilt cylinder to make that up and I don't want to order the wrong one.

 

[bubbacuse77]

Bump. To. Top

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you are a "GOOD" welder, then you can get a 6" stroke cylinder to work. You are not going to have much if any rod left showing when you are done and the unit is fully retracted. That is based on that you get the right welded cylinder to start with and that you want an equal amount of tilt to each side. If you build it how most of the JD units are that I have seen, it basically only tilts in one direction and a 6" stroke will fit no problem.

 

[bubbacuse77]

I measured it all out against what I have and can use a 4 or 6 inch cylinder but I was more worried if guys end up having issues of more movement on the swivel eyes of the top link and lift arms than they are capable of and I run the risk of damaging something or bending metal

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I believe that in your conditions, the 6" stroke will not put anything in a bind. The only time that I have seen a binding problem has been when there are 2 hydraulic links and they are maxed out to the extreme opposite adjustments and even then there is not always binding. You will be fine with the single 6" stoke side link.

 

[bubbacuse77]

Brian thanks for helping us guys who like to fabricate. I know TNT kits are your thing and it would be easy to ignore us DIYers.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No problem, I can't do them all anyway. I hope that your side link comes out as good as your top link did. :thumbsup: Are you going to make your clevis, or use the OEM one? I believe that the OEM clevis is cast steel, not 100% sure though. You could try to find that British thread and just screw it on like the OEM unit is.