Too much play in 2520 joystick

[Birdmayon]

Just got my new 2520 with 200cx this past weekend and noticed when I go to curl the bucket back (joystick to left), the joystick moves 3-4 inches before it engages the valve, and hits my leg almost immediately after engaging the valve. So, I can't do a full speed curl without moving my leg to the left. Unfortunately, this requires me to take my foot off the forward pedal, so I can't curl back while moving. There are a few things that I noticed, the joystick rotates a bit on the rod that it is bolted to before it starts to rotate the rod. (that's a bit confusing sounding). That relates to almost an inch of play at the end of the joystick. The other thing, is there is almost zero play in the forward, back and right positions, only to the left. I'm guessing the linkage for back curl could be shortened, has anyone played with these adjustments? Or should I just load her back up and bring it to the dealer to sort out? If it's simple I'd rather just do it myself and save the time and trouble. Appreciate your ideas.

 

[Birdmayon]

Let's see if I can get this to work, attached a pic of the joystick assembly. After taking another look I'm guessing a fair bit of side to side play is normal due to the way it's built, however I think the lever is adjusted too far to the left and could be adjusted to the right by shortening the linkage (see parts 35 through 39). Probably remove nut (27), loosen nut (38), and screw in the tie rod (39) a bit.

Hope this makes my issue a bit more clear.

 

[skidoo]

I had a similar problem. I thought it was just something loose, until the stick virtually fell out of the assembly. Looking from the back, the screw was still there, but the whole washer, screw, and assembly (#7) kept creeping out of the cylinder. So, I found a larger washer to put in there so it could not pull through the cylinder. So, far that has fixed my problem...

 

[FastPauly]

Birdmayon;
Looking at the pivot points on the parts list, I think that by adjusting rod #39 would be adjusting the for/aft position of the control lever. Rod #32 is the one that would change the left/right position of the lever.

 

[Birdmayon]

I spoke with the dealer to be sure I was on the right track (normally I'd just tackle it and experiment, but, it's a brand new tractor). They confirmed that my explanation above was the way to go, and it worked perfectly. Fast Pauly, the parts I pointed out were the correct ones, it does look a bit confusing but you have to really pay attention to the pivot points in the schematic.

Simple adjustment.

 

[FastPauly]

Oh well...I will just have to stand confused. In my interpretation of the schematic, moving the lever left/right pivots off of PIN#8. This raises/lowers connecting stud on PART#5...which is directly connected to adjustable ROD#32.

I often go to sleep confused anf wake up even more confused?

The important thing is....your problem ended up being an easy fix.

FastPauly

 

[Birdmayon]

Left/right pivots around pin #7, forward/back pivots around pin #8

 

[FastPauly]

Not worth arguing Birdmayon....I know I am correct.....and you know you are. So unless someone else agrees with you or I, we will just call it a draw.

FastPauly

 

[Birdmayon]

I didn't realize there was an "argument".

Go look at your tractor for reference.

 

[FastPauly]

Birdmyon,
I just made a trip to the garage to check this out. I am now setting here watching the Las Vegas race while eating CROW....it ain't that bad if prepared correctly.

I apologize for being so pig-headed on this....I allowed the schematic to turn my thoughts 90 degrees.....I assumed the levers control input was perpindicular to the tractor....BAD assumtion.....I have to quit doing that

Again....my apology Birdmyon.

Fast Pauly

...the trick to preparing Crow is to par-boil in Old Milwaukee beer.