mowingcorey
Member
I am thinking of putting a toothbar on my 30 inch dirt scoop. Does anyone have any hints to help me build this?
Toothbar for dirt scoop?
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Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I can't say I've ever seen a toothbar on a dirt scoop... I guess you could find and adapt and weld on some kind of tooth tip for a box blade ( with replaceable teeth ) etc??
Soundguy
Soundguy
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
I just got a dirt scoop - the $220 Howse from Northern - and was having similar thoughts. I have a bunch of old RR spikes - maybe cut the heads off, bend them into a slight S-shape and attach them directly to the cutting edge.
First I'll get some hours on the scoop to see if I need them. I have the Red Dirt here so I might. In your experience do you feel they are needed?
Brad
First I'll get some hours on the scoop to see if I need them. I have the Red Dirt here so I might. In your experience do you feel they are needed?
Brad
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
The rr spikes welded to the underside of the cutting edge with the heads cut off would probably look good.
As for needing it? I'm not sure it will. The idea of the scoop is to slice or cut into your pile or plane off a section of a run.
I've loade dboth clay and dirt from a pile, and from an embankment using both a rear scoop, and a loader with very agressive teeth. Net result is about the same as long as you get the angle of attack on the scoop correctly, and apply some lift right at the end of the cut.. etc.
Here's a pic of a maneuer bucket on the 1 arm loader on my 1955 ford 660. the tines on the tip of the bucket are 5 or 6 inches long.. that's fairly agressive. Here is a pic of me digging some clay out of a small stockpile on my property.
I just grabbed a little for the pic.. the bucket actually mounds up well unless the clay is hard packed like concrete.
As for needing it? I'm not sure it will. The idea of the scoop is to slice or cut into your pile or plane off a section of a run.
I've loade dboth clay and dirt from a pile, and from an embankment using both a rear scoop, and a loader with very agressive teeth. Net result is about the same as long as you get the angle of attack on the scoop correctly, and apply some lift right at the end of the cut.. etc.
Here's a pic of a maneuer bucket on the 1 arm loader on my 1955 ford 660. the tines on the tip of the bucket are 5 or 6 inches long.. that's fairly agressive. Here is a pic of me digging some clay out of a small stockpile on my property.
I just grabbed a little for the pic.. the bucket actually mounds up well unless the clay is hard packed like concrete.
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Thanks for the informed response,
I tried the scoop out tonite. Just a couple of scoops. It seemed to scrape good once I got the top link adjusted. The real test will be dry virgin soil which has been known to make my spade buckle like a tin clicker.
It was after dark already since I spent some time massaging the latch mechanism. The latch catches on a 1/2" bolt that came with a loose piece of tubing over it, presumably to act as a crude roller. I bored a piece of 1" solid to 1/2" and with grease it rolls like the journal bearing it is.
Anyhow, the latch works fine but the bucket pivot was so stiff it wouldn't fully dump. I loosened the bolts and greased them and worked it and it feels quite a bit better but I didn't try it again.
TGFDST anyhow! (Thank God For Daylight Savings Time - I just made that up /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
Brad
I tried the scoop out tonite. Just a couple of scoops. It seemed to scrape good once I got the top link adjusted. The real test will be dry virgin soil which has been known to make my spade buckle like a tin clicker.
It was after dark already since I spent some time massaging the latch mechanism. The latch catches on a 1/2" bolt that came with a loose piece of tubing over it, presumably to act as a crude roller. I bored a piece of 1" solid to 1/2" and with grease it rolls like the journal bearing it is.
Anyhow, the latch works fine but the bucket pivot was so stiff it wouldn't fully dump. I loosened the bolts and greased them and worked it and it feels quite a bit better but I didn't try it again.
TGFDST anyhow! (Thank God For Daylight Savings Time - I just made that up /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
Brad
surfran
Platinum Member
You might be able to use windrower guards. I was thinking of using these to make a toothbar a couple years ago but ended up buying the teeth and building one as I was concerned about durability on toothbar.
For your application they make work out well. Easily replaced and available.
For your application they make work out well. Easily replaced and available.
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andyfletcher
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2004
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- 65
The old horse hay mowers have the hardened teeth already slotted for welding. You may want to try those.
These mowers can be got for scrap and even in bad shape and w/missing teeth has you'll only use a few teeth out of the set anyway.
These mowers can be got for scrap and even in bad shape and w/missing teeth has you'll only use a few teeth out of the set anyway.
