Top and Tilt l2501 DIY

   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #1  

650gSatoh

Bronze Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2022
Messages
59
Location
NJ
Tractor
Satoh 650g-Sold...Kubota L2501
Hi All,

I'm looking to piece together a t+t kit for my Kubota l2501. I want it for ease of use with my box blade. I don't have any rear remotes.

I'm hoping to fit the 2 spool valve in the area between the seat and fender on the right side. I like the idea of it here as I'm generally looking over my right shoulder and having the levers down low seems like a more ergonomic position as opposed to up on the fender, where I see most. Obviously won't know until I have the valve in hand but I have found a few older posts where this has been done, though on larger machines.

Other than the t+t cylinders I do not have a need nor do I see a need in the future for having rear remotes. I have a small property and the only other implement I'm considering getting is a pulverizer which will only use the t+t, although I may not need the pulverizer for trail maintenance as the added functionality with t+t may make it easier with the BB.

Given that, is there any reason why I can't have the cylinder hoses going directly into the valve body, and not using a set of quick connects?

I will be going into the power beyond circuit. I have watched ytube videos of installs of kits and I haven't seen anything in regards to a line going back to the tank but have read on various posts about this and not sure how to go about this or if it is used in my instance?
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #2  
I'm actually going to take my quick connects out (one of the hoses rubbed and I'm afraid of it blowing out completely). So I'm removing my quick connects. So the only time I did remove the TopLink was when I use my Post Hole digger... I rarely use that these days...

So, it's cheaper to buy a 3 spool now instead of adding a 3rd function for a grapple. That's what I did, (at the time) it was $60 extra and I don't mind moving a lever to close the grapple vs. pushing a button.

Just something to think about - Oh, and just in case I do need a 3rd remote out back, I can disconnect the grapple and run the hose to the rear end!
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #3  
I did this on my 2502. Here is where I mounted my valve.
 

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   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I'm actually going to take my quick connects out (one of the hoses rubbed and I'm afraid of it blowing out completely). So I'm removing my quick connects. So the only time I did remove the TopLink was when I use my Post Hole digger... I rarely use that these days...

So, it's cheaper to buy a 3 spool now instead of adding a 3rd function for a grapple. That's what I did, (at the time) it was $60 extra and I don't mind moving a lever to close the grapple vs. pushing a button.

Just something to think about - Oh, and just in case I do need a 3rd remote out back, I can disconnect the grapple and run the hose to the rear end!
Good to know, thanks.

I was looking at getting a grapple as they sure look like fun. But I have a set of forks and they have been fine for my usage and I can't justify the expense for my limited use and 5 acre property.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I did this on my 2502. Here is where I mounted my valve.
Did you think about dropping it down where I have mentioned? I just went out to my tractor and had a good look. It looks like there is plenty of room.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #6  
Did you think about dropping it down where I have mentioned? I just went out to my tractor and had a good look. It looks like there is plenty of room.
No, I really like the location of where I placed the valve. I had no use for tilt so I used that spool to run my grapple. The joystick that comes straight out is what controls my grapple and tip of that joystick to tip of my loader joystick is about 6" apart from one another which makes it perfect for operating the grapple. I love this setup and have controls for both hyd top link and grapple for around $400 (minus the cylinder).

Edit: If I ever needed tilt, I can quickly and easily swap lines from 3rd function and run them to the rear for tilt. I made a bracket that holds two sets of rear ports.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#7  
No, I really like the location of where I placed the valve. I had no use for tilt so I used that spool to run my grapple. The joystick that comes straight out is what controls my grapple and tip of that joystick to tip of my loader joystick is about 6" apart from one another which makes it perfect for operating the grapple. I love this setup and have controls for both hyd top link and grapple for around $400 (minus the cylinder).

Edit: If I ever needed tilt, I can quickly and easily swap lines from 3rd function and run them to the rear for tilt. I made a bracket that holds two sets of rear ports.
Gotcha.

$400, that sounds right in my wheelhouse. Do you have a write up on here of all the parts used etc?
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #8  
Gotcha.

$400, that sounds right in my wheelhouse. Do you have a write up on here of all the parts used etc?

I used this valve as well as the PB adapter sleeve.


Other than that you just need the fittings and hoses. Best place I found to get hoses was my local farm store. You can get a T to Tee into the tank port at the hydraulic block.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I used this valve as well as the PB adapter sleeve.


Other than that you just need the fittings and hoses. Best place I found to get hoses was my local farm store. You can get a T to Tee into the tank port at the hydraulic block.
Thanks for that. I had my eye on those 2 items or similar.
 

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