Top link hydro leak - repairable?

[buyerjohn]

see the attached top link picture (a CCM toplink that I painted)....it's leaking at the joint indicated by the arrow. It seems that I have to tighten this connection at least one full revolution to realign with the connecting stem...I'm wondering if this is even possible.

Is this an adjustable connection or is it factory set and not supposed to be adjusted?

Try it and see?

thanks

 

[3RRL]

John,
If that is a CCM set up, it is a banjo fitting. It's made of 2 pieces. It looks like one piece since you painted it.
The bolt goes through the part that connects to the double pilot operated check valve (DPOCV).
All you have to do is tighten that bolt until it stops leaking. Hold the part that goes to the DPOCV still (to keep it aligned) and tighten the bolt. Worst is you may have to replace the 2 copper washers between the banjo bolt and banjo fitting.
(click on picture to enlarge)

 

[buyerjohn]

John,
If that is a CCM set up, it is a banjo fitting. It's made of 2 pieces. It looks like one piece since you painted it.
The bolt goes through the part that connects to the double pilot operated check valve (DPOCV).
All you have to do is tighten that bolt until it stops leaking. Hold the part that goes to the DPOCV still (to keep it aligned) and tighten the bolt. Worst is you may have to replace the 2 copper washers between the banjo bolt and banjo fitting.
(click on picture to enlarge)

perhaps I'm missing something - yours has an additional nut between the "T" and the cylinder that mine doesn't have...the points indicated as "a" have threads, the point "B" is a weld, not a thread.

Or are you saying that the bolt just underneath the top arrow of "point A" goes thru the banjo fitting into the valve and therefore will stop leaks at both of the thread joints indicated by arrows "A"?

 

[tommu56]

buyerjohn

here is a pictuer of the parts in a banjo fitting

The bolt goes through the "banjo" with a copper washer on the head of bolt and throught the banjo and another copper washer and it screws in to the cylinder fittng. it seals on the faces of bolt banjo and cylinder boss not like "normal pipe therads".

BANJO, hydraulic pipe fitting,hydraulic hose fitting

Put a wrench on the hex on top of the fittng and turn it clockwise to tighten if it seals good if not back it off (counterclockwise) take bolt out get 2 new washers from hydraulic shop (in a pinch I found some copper oil drain bolt washers to fit) reinstall them and ypu should be good

tommu

 

[tommu56]

buyerjohn
Here is your pictuer with annations of parts

tommu

 

[buyerjohn]

buyerjohn

here is a pictuer of the parts in a banjo fitting

The bolt goes through the "banjo" with a copper washer on the head of bolt and throught the banjo and another copper washer and it screws in to the cylinder fittng. it seals on the faces of bolt banjo and cylinder boss not like "normal pipe therads".

BANJO, hydraulic pipe fitting,hydraulic hose fitting

Put a wrench on the hex on top of the fittng and turn it clockwise to tighten if it seals good if not back it off (counterclockwise) take bolt out get 2 new washers from hydraulic shop (in a pinch I found some copper oil drain bolt washers to fit) reinstall them and ypu should be good

tommu

thanks a bunch - that did the trick!

One more question, I need to turn the part marked "C" 90 degrees so that the hoses don't hit anything. Do I simply loosen the bolts labeled "D", turn part "C" 90 degrees, and then retighten the 2 bolts?

thanks.

 

[3RRL]

Or are you saying that the bolt just underneath the top arrow of "point A" goes thru the banjo fitting into the valve and therefore will stop leaks at both of the thread joints indicated by arrows "A"?

Yes, that's what I'm saying.
Mine needed adapters to fit the cylinder I chose because the banjo bolts were a different thread than the cylinder.
Looks like Tom clarified it for you too with the annotation of the copper washers.
Good job Tom!

 

[3RRL]

One more question, I need to turn the part marked "C" 90 degrees so that the hoses don't hit anything. Do I simply loosen the bolts labeled "D", turn part "C" 90 degrees, and then retighten the 2 bolts?

Yes again, that's exactly right.
Those nuts tighten onto compression fittings. Loosen them and turn 90 degrees, the re-tighten them up.

 

[buyerjohn]

thanks for all the help...I was able to stop the leaks and turn the part...all with just a crescent wrench and two minutes work!

John