top link length for rear blade?
- Thread starter Adj100
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Adjust the top link to about center position(length) and lower the blade. The front-to back main beam should be about level and the line between the cutting edge and the top of the blade should be about vertical. If so, your top link is OK.
Maybe your blade is too light, the ground too hard, or the cutting edge too dull.
Bruce
Maybe your blade is too light, the ground too hard, or the cutting edge too dull.
Bruce
yelbike
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Adjustments are sort of a fine lost art, lost cause forget how you did it last time.
Long top link makes cut more, short of rides over ground.
Long top link makes cut more, short of rides over ground.
Soundguy
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generally the rar of the blade must be a lil down, and the front of the blade a lil up.. then it should suck into the ground pretty good when driving forward.
scarfire teeth down for a pass or two then up, helps loosen things up if in hardpan..
scarfire teeth down for a pass or two then up, helps loosen things up if in hardpan..
LD1
Epic Contributor
I try to set mine up so the 3PH frame is level. Doing that makes the kingpin vertical. IF this isnt how you got it set-up, if you angle the blade, one side will be lower than the other. But with the frame level and kingpin vertical, you can angle it however you want and not have to re-adjust anything.
That said, Longer TL bites more, shorter bites less. But it sounds like a combination of a light blade and rock-hard ground. In that case, there isnt much you can do until you break up the soil somehow. Tiller, middle buster, box-blade with rippers, plow, disc, etc. My 700lb blade dont even bite well if it is really hard-packed like cement.
That said, Longer TL bites more, shorter bites less. But it sounds like a combination of a light blade and rock-hard ground. In that case, there isnt much you can do until you break up the soil somehow. Tiller, middle buster, box-blade with rippers, plow, disc, etc. My 700lb blade dont even bite well if it is really hard-packed like cement.
