Top-Link Ram problems??

[Gregster613]

Hi all,
I've been having an issue with my top-link ram; when connected to my Woods BB60 box-blade. I've attached a few pictures to help me show my problem.

I've managed to bend the ram (somehow - probably when pushing in reverse w/BB) so I know I need to repair it or most likely just replace the entire ram.

I also don't like the location where the hoses attach // I'd prefer it if they were on the side, vice bottom/top. While in the midst of operating, I keep forgetting to not retract fully and end up breaking the adapter fittings!

It also has smashed-up the ram end-cap by crunching it against the BB whilst fully retracted (so I can get maximum scarifier length into ground).

My BB is the only attachment giving me this problem, and I'm looking for suggestions to correct it.

1. My ram retracts all the way to the swivel end. I've determined that I need at least 3&1/2" from ram end-cap to center of BB attachment.
2. Ram in question is a 12'' X 2"? cat1 by Gearmore. What I'm wondering is what length rams do you experienced users use? I like the length I've got now; allows me to extend & retract fully for work I've done, but is causing problems.
3. Can one specifiy certain off-set lengths? [If that's what the length from ram to swivel is called?]
4. How about placements of hose fittings? Can they be requested to be located upon the sides? Or is something else wrong with my set-up that I'm missing?
5. Where do you current users suggest looking for replacement top-link rams? I've seen ads at various places here on TBN, but when I researched somewhat they were all limited to only 2 or 3 cat1 top-link rams.
6. My experience, so far, has been that it's probably cheaper to replace than repair.
Thanks for any suggestions on a fix, I feel kinda dumb cause I know I need a replacement ram but I'd like to buy a correct one once vice buying several to try. Greg

 

[jinman]

I think I'd be grinding my boxblade a bit to keep it from smacking the cylinder when retracted. Your cylinder has been so badly damaged that you may never get the end off to replace seals if needed. I think you need a shorter cylinder with maybe a longer ram or a modification to the boxblade so it won't hit the cylinder.

 

[Leejohn]

Also look into some stop collars and use one when you use the BB. Like jinman said, get the grinder out, that well fix it.

 

[J_J]

Try here.

Standard Hydraulic Cylinders

Port can be rotated on the cyl below.

http://baileynet.com/index.php?id=29

http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-strse-Top-dsh-Link-Cylinders/Categories.bok

On a tie rod cyl, you should be able to turn the ports to the direction you need. The one shown, has the ports on the side.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that you would be better off with a 10" stroke. It looks to me that you don't need 12" of adjustment. Get a cylinder with a 10" stroke and you may well find that your problems will go away.

What implement do you use that you need 12" of extension?

 

[kennyd]

That cylinder is shot...Kiss it goodbye. Give Mark at CCM a call or get one from the Surplus Center.

 

[Eagleview]

Hi all,

I've managed to bend the ram (somehow - probably when pushing in reverse w/BB) so I know I need to repair it or most likely just replace the entire ram. Greg

When pushing in reverse , the top of the BB frame is pulling on the ram , not pushing so that will not bend the ram . Your problem is that the collar on the ram is fouling the frame and when you lift the BB or it rides up on a mound , the ram cannot pivot on the pin which has bent the rod . You need to grind/oxy/plasma cut (as mentioned) a concave curve at the point where the ram touches the frame so it has clearance so the ram can pivot on it's arc .

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that Iron Horse may have the best solution so that this doesn't happen again once you get a new top link.

 

[Gregster613]

Jinman & Ironhorse,
Thanks for your input ideas. I thought about doing just that but am afraid it'll weaken the BB A-frame? Ram rubs just under the mounting hole.
Perhaps I'm just too cautious, but don't wanna weaken a solid working unit. I thought maybe it was just the wrong type of ram in the first place?

I don't know - my tractor seller got both of my rams for me when I first bought the tractor, the top & side-link rams, both Gearmore. I just told him to get me what would fit the TYM, as I was a novice then. Much more familiar w/tractor stuff now!

Kennyd, Hi, yes I know ram is shot - but it still works, doesn't leak unless I bang a fitting against the BB. Guess I'll keep using it until the seals go bad then "kiss" it goodby!

Brian, If'n I just get a shorter ram - how will that stop the rubbing effect? Whenever I retract fully, ram connects with the BB A-frame? Don't I need to get an extension on the ram end? What is that called - offset? That's the area that I'm unsure about. If I get a 10" ram, with a 12" cylinder then I'd have 2" of room at A-frame end; but won't that also make the ram more prone to bendage??

Lastly, if you guys believe that grinding on my A-frame is the best fix -- then guess I'll bite my teeth & just grind out a notch. I just don't want to ruin a good tool by doing something unnecessary.
Thanks for all the ideas thus far. Greg

 

[jinman]

Lastly, if you guys believe that grinding on my A-frame is the best fix -- then guess I'll bite my teeth & just grind out a notch. I just don't want to ruin a good tool by doing something unnecessary.
Thanks for all the ideas thus far. Greg

Greg, think about it. The only time the boxblade pulls against the toplink is when you are using the boxblade in reverse (or when you raise if for transport). All forward blading has that A-frame pushing into the toplink.

The idea of a shorter toplink is that you will be able to put your boxblade tilted forward enough without retracting the ram all the way. You are right that a longer piston ram would stop the problem, but you need a shorter toplink with a longer ram to accomplish that too. Adding any kind of bracket to your boxblade for an extension is just going to reduce the forward angle of your boxblade. That's why a shorter toplink or grinding the blade A-frame are the only two real choices as I see it.