Top or Tilt?

[DK35vince]

Like any hydraulic on the tractor, once you start the machine you simply move the control to reposition the cylinder.

Dont get me wrong, I feel that top and tilt is a great option and I would not be without it.

I just wanted you to be aware that you have to periodically check the position.

I have top and tilt cylinders with check valves.
With the check valves they never leak down. They stay where you put them.
Something like this for a top link.2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder | AMA | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[Gordon Gould]

Like others have said get at least two and maybe 3 rear remotes. I got 2 from the dealer. Then later added a 3rd function valve and now I am thinking of adding more rear remotes. You never know what you will want in the next 20 years or more. It's cheaper now.

I have Top-N-Tilt from Fit-Rite on a 30 hp tractor. The best addition I have made for road work. I watch the blade and make adjustments to make it cut the way I want. On my roads it is not realistic that you can set up the blade angles and then not have to adjust them during the whole job. So it is not a bother or even noticeable if they leak down a little over time because I am adjusting them as I go anyway.



gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

To answer your actual question Top or Tilt first. My choice would be Top. For me it is the most useful. If you are running an angled implement like an angled rake or rear blade you can control the tilt with a Top Link. Set the top link so the horizontal shaft or boom (not sure the actual name) of the blade is parallel to the road when you lower the blade. The blade will be parallel to the road surface when straight and at any angle. If you shorten the top-link with the blade angled at 45* to build a crown the ditch side of the blade will drop and the driver side (road center) will raise giving you a crown cutting angle, cutting more on the inside than the center.. Lengthen the top-link and the opposite happens.

And with a box blade it is all about top-link length.

gg

 

[DK35vince]

On my roads it is not realistic that you can set up the blade angles and then not have to adjust them during the whole job. So it is not a bother or even noticeable if they leak down a little over time because I am adjusting them as I go anyway.

Try brush mowing for hours with a side link that leaks down some time. Very noticeable, very annoying. (1/2" leak down at a tilt cylinder can = inches on the outside of a brush mower)
Been there done that. That's why I replaced those cylinders with top/tilt cylinders with check valves. They stay where I put them.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Try brush mowing for hours with a side link that leaks down some time. Very noticeable, very annoying. (1/2" leak down at a tilt cylinder can = inches on the outside of a brush mower)
Been there done that. That's why I replaced those cylinders with top/tilt cylinders with check valves. They stay where I put them.

I understand what you are saying. I was not trying to say that dual pilot operated check valves were useless or a waste of money. I was just describing my situation where adjustment change requirements are noticeable weather from leak down or changing work conditions and not particularly bothersome. Everyone's operating preferences or needs are different and there are usually enough options available to keep everyone happy.

gg

 

[wagne223]

I have top and tilt cylinders with check valves.
With the check valves they never leak down. They stay where you put them.
Something like this for a top link.2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder | AMA | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

I'll have to consider the check valve option for the tilt. Thanks for the info.

 

[Bird]

I put both on my B2710 a long time ago, but did it all myself, with some help from other TBN members.

 

[Whitbread]

I built my own top and tilt setup on my 1620 and it's been absolutely fantastic. As others have said, it makes hooking up sooooo much easier when working alone. My only half-complaint is that I didn't use check valve cylinders. I say half complaint because I don't do any rear mowing and put the tilt cylinder in float all the time when box blading the driveway to gently smooth it over without changing the contours. With a check valve tilt cylinder, I couldn't put it in float. If you did a non check valve top cylinder, you could float it when bushogging instead of disconnecting/swinging/chain.

A lot hinges on what your intended uses are. For me, touching a lever once in a while with non check valve cylinders isn't the end of the world and doesn't affect anything. For others, it would be extremely annoying.

 

[/pine]

Never really thought about it because I'm usually making minor adjustments anyway...But wouldn't temporarily disconnecting the rod end hose from the QD on the tilt cylinder solve a bleed down issue? Seems like it would be easier than removing the cylinder for a solid lift arm when mowing etc...?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Never really thought about it because I'm usually making minor adjustments anyway...But wouldn't temporarily disconnecting the rod end hose from the QD on the tilt cylinder solve a bleed down issue? Seems like it would be easier than removing the cylinder for a solid lift arm when mowing etc...?

Yes, disconnecting the rod end hose coupler solves the bleed down issue. As mentioned, it really makes a difference as to what the main uses are. To the best of my knowledge, most people that have made use of the float feature with their top & tilt units would not go back to a non float featured valve.

What I usually tell people is that if cylinder leak down affects the operation of the tractor, then it is an issue that should be dealt with in some way. There are several ways to deal with the issue, least costly money wise is to simply disconnect the rod end hose coupler. Again it makes a difference as to what task is being done and the leak down is an actual problem.

An extreme case was a customer used his tractor every 3-4 weeks. He had no leak down issues when operating his tractor, but he did not like having to readjust the side link each time that he went to use the tractor every 3 or 4 weeks, so he ended up installing a check valve.

Most people are realistic about these things, others not so much. :confused2: