Total ignorance of hydraulics

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

But I still need to find a valve and possibly a divirter to run the cylinder on a 6' rear blade on a Kioti LK3054 BHFEL. I saw a valve on a northern tool page

Can any one say if this valve will do the job on it's own. What about attaching hoses to the ftgs on this directional control valve? Do hoses come standard, that fit the 2 3/4 and one 1/2" ftgs at one end and the quick connect hose [ where this hose is is still a mystery. I wondered if the two hoses that are supposed to be reconnected to eachother after removing the BH, would serve to get oil to the proper places to operate the cylinder to change the angle on my rear blade.

Sorry about all the questions....... I am not locked in to the valve in the attachment. But the price is more my speed if it will do the job.

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

P.S. Someone told me I could use the loader joy stick to use the cylinder on the rear blade by using angle iron judiciously placed to lock up the loader and I assume....? remove two hoses from there and put extensions or other hoses between the rear blade cyl. and the joy stick. If that is true, why is a diverter valve necessary if it use some other valve. I'm not question the wisdom of the people helping but need to learn about this stuff. Thank you for your time.

MtnViewRanch · Jan 28, 2016

ron45 said:
P.S. Someone told me I could use the loader joy stick to use the cylinder on the rear blade by using angle iron judiciously placed to lock up the loader and I assume....? remove two hoses from there and put extensions or other hoses between the rear blade cyl. and the joy stick. If that is true, why is a diverter valve necessary if it use some other valve. I'm not question the wisdom of the people helping but need to learn about this stuff. Thank you for your time.

Ron, you can use the loader valve as is. No steel supports required. Disconnect the curl circuit lines to the loader and get hoses long enough to go from the existing loader couplers in the middle back to your rear blade. Left joystick movement angles to the left and right movement angles to the right. Pretty simple.

The electric diverter would be so that the loader curl circuit does not have to be disconnected, you would push a button to actuate the diverter and then move the joystick left-right to angle the rear blade.

Or you can install a separate control valve (SCV) specifically for the rear of the tractor and use it. Here is a good example of a low cost valve that will work for you. You can plumb this directly to your power beyond circuit used for your back hoe and all will be good for you. :thumbsup:

Now I believe that it has not yet been established how exactly your hoe is connected. How this is actually done can have a big influence with how this all needs to be done. There are typically 2 different methods to do this and this can-will make a difference as to what way you decide to do all of this.

On a side note, you will not be making any adjustments manually with that cylinder on your rear blade, it does not work that way.

Confirm how your hoe connections are and all of this can be cleared up.

Coyote machine · Jan 28, 2016

Thanks Ron for taking my suggestion to bring your questions over to the Hydraulics section where knowledgeable guys like Brian of Fit-Rite can answer your questions more accurately than guys like me.

Brian is really good at doing the valve and hydraulic connection thing for all kinds of situations. (He setup my top-N-Tilt cylinders, and diverter valving on my Kioti. It works great; I installed it myself, having purchased the kit from Brian). You are now in good hands.

Thanks for getting involved Brian.:thumbsup:

LD1 · Jan 28, 2016

Hoses can be had with any kind of ends. And there are endless amounts of fittings and adapters.

So forget all that for now, we need to get to the core of how you are going to operate the blade.

Do you have rear remotes?
Do you have any need to want to use the loader AND the blade at the same time without swapping fittings?

Option 1: If you dont need to use the loader, you dont even need a valve. Just a pair of long hoses with QD's to plug into your curl ports on your loader valve, and the other end having whatever threads match the cylinder on the rear blade.

Option 2: If you want to use the loader and blade at the same time (which would be best all around) you can tap into the PB port on the loader valve, run a valve downstream like the one you show or the one brian linked. This will require 4 hoses. One from the PB to the new valve, one tapped into a return on your tractor, and then the two going from the new valve to the cylinder.

option 3: Or you can do a diverter setup off the curl of your bucket. This only requires the two hoses going to the blade, and requires no extra valve. It uses the curl hoses similar to option 1, but the curl stays hooked up. Basically, curl operates normally with the joystick. But push a button, and an electric valve diverts the curl hoses to the rear blade. So you push the button and use the left-right on the joystick moves the blade. DONT push the button and left-right works curl.

Both option 2 and 3 will allow you to use the blade and the loader. I dont think I would want to be using a blade, weather moving dirt or snow, and have my loader disabled.

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

I didn't like disabling the loader either. I got some great help on getting going thanks again going to order the valve in the link in Brian's post.

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

Hi Brian, I can't find the post I just sent, I went back to the `hydraulics post page and clicked this thread and don't see it. So. I'll order the valve and let the loader as is.

Other than a big honkin' handle to pull there are just the two quick disconnects that live on the rear, driver's right, axle. These supply the hoe. They were my first thought as a source for the valve but I was told there might be other things needed. I'm assuming that these hoses have some sort of ends on each so they only connect in the proper directrion. But you know how how assumptions are sometimes.

4k in So. Cal might put you in the Big Bear or Kern River area lsomewhere. I used to work at Mammouth Mt. in 73 and lived in the beach area from Venice and Malibu to Trancas Cyn before and after Mammoth. I still miss that area but living there is too expensive for us. New Mexico is a great substitute we are @7k at the btm of the Rockies chain in central New Mexico. Got snow on the ground, and seclusion and population density to die for.......