towing CK20

[ChasK]

I know the topic of towing is tired and I've gone back and searched old posts, but I haven't found answers and I am preparing to purchase a vehicle to tow my CK20, FEL, and RFM. I have totaled the weight from Kioti website and believe my tractor with those implements to be about 3100 pounds. Do you all agree?

Furthermore, what are the specs of the trailer I should purchase (I would think tandem axle w/ brakes on both axles) and would a vehicle w/ a 5000 lb. towing capacity be enough? Do I have to include the weight of the trailer when I consider my soon-to-be vehicles towing capacity?

I've not purchased a vehicle to tow with or a trailer before so I'm kind of flying blind here...

thanks a bunch...
ChasK

 

[GerardC]

<font color="blue"> Do I have to include the weight of the trailer when I consider my soon-to-be vehicles towing capacity?</font>

YES. That's the first thing that gets deducted for towing.

 

[RedRocker]

I'd go with at least a 3/4 ton truck, a lot of vehicles look good on paper, but you'll be a lot safer with as much truck as you can get. There's more to towing than towing capacity, you have to manuver and stop a lot of weight. I'd rather do an emergency swerve in a one ton dually than a 1/2 ton Tundra or S-10. I'd also get more trailer than you need too with brakes on both axles for sure.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I tow a slightly lighter tractor, and a slightly heavier tractor. Both get towed on a 7000# GVW tandem axel trailer. Usually I have 1 but sometimes I have 2 implements on the trailer. The FEL has always been on when towing. I use a Mercury Mountaineer (V8), which is a 1/2 ton with a modest towing capacity.

It's NOT great going UPHILL but otherwise handles the loads without any problem. I don't know where in Indiana you are, but there are flat parts and there are very hilly parts. If you are in a hilly area, then I'd go with 3/4 ton & get a diesel engine for some extra torque. If you're in a basically flat area like I am in, then a full size 1/2 ton 5000# capacity truck/suv will be fine (stay away from the compact trucks they are too light for good towing even if they say they have the towing capacity, you don't want the tail wagging the dog).

 

[Dargo]

Yes, I agree with the others. Towing over the rated towing limit (very easy to do with a 1/2 ton truck) will not only likely end with trouble, but will land you in trouble with the law if you cause an accident or injury. It is your responsibility to have your load under control at all times. If you tow with something that is even technically overloaded, in the eyes of the law, you did not have control of your load. You are then in big trouble if there is an accident.

 

[Egon]

3/4 ton - preferably diesel - trailer rated at too or above the trucks tow capacity. It will be much different between a fith wheel or bumper pull.

Your original starting load will somehow grow as the years go by.

Egon

 

[TractorLegend]

I know they just changed the laws in Washington state to make it a criminal act to have unsecured loads since so many people have been getting killed with projectiles from other peoples rigs thru the windshield.
Im all for 3/4ton truck and sizeable tandem axle trailer for transport- likely you will get more implements as time progresses.
The door plate tells towing capacity.
In the auto repair field I see too many people attempt towing huge trailers and boats with Jeeps, S-10's, mini pick ups and small suv's. You can pull something down the street with them, but when it comes to mountain passes on a 95 degree day it will put your fire out power-wise right away, and the anemic brakes make stopping no fun and bakes them, and they suffer premature powertrain failure due to overload.

 

[VictorW]

You'll need a double axle trailer and the most common around here are 7000#. Brakes on both axles are a wise choice. Let the trailer stop itself. 5000# towing capacity would be a little light. Any swerve or panic movement probably would push the tow vehicle. I had a Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4, 350 engine with 3.42 ratio axles, and towed just about what you mentioned in weight. It did the job but I didn't feel comfortable with it. Slow on the hills, braking was fine with the electric trailer brakes set properly, but if I had to swerve, I think there would have been trouble. I now have a Ford F250SD with a V10 and 3.73 axles. No problems at all pulling the trailer and the CK30hst with fel. Don't have the back hoe yet but still shouldn't be a problem. Diesels are nice but the extra cost is high. The CK30hst is 3055# with the fel around 700#.

 

[KAB]

Here is a web site that might help you decide how much weight you will be towing. It is aimed at RV'ers but helps you to think about what else you might be carrying with you. Tow Calculator Demo.


Depending on Where (hills or flat), How Often, How Far, and What Else (will you be taking anything else with you) will decide on what size vehicle and trailer you will need. Yes, a 3/4 ton truck w/diesel would be ideal but a 1/2 ton truck will do the job (depending on the above answers). I have a ck20 that I tow on a regular basis about 15 miles each way, and a few times a year a 100 miles round trip. I use a '90 full size Blazer with a 350. It has a hitch rated at 6000# that I stay under. Your numbers sound correct at 3100# for the equipment that you currently have. A trailer will weigh between approx 1200# (Aluminum) to over 2000# which will probably put the total tow weight in the 5000# range.

Can you get a "midsize" truck or suv that is rated to tow this much? Yes. Do You want to? Probably not. (unless towing on a limited basis) Why do I say this? Width of tow vehicle as compared to trailer width. It can be fun making sure the trailer axles are in your lane. At minimum (depending on what you will be doing) you be a 1/2 ton truck or full size suv. Most (possibly all) available in this size will be able to tow what you have asked about and then some. In this class of vehicles you would want to get something with a V8 and possibly the largest rear differential possible (a 4.10 would be better that a 3.43, 3.23, 3.73, etc.). Once again depending on what exactly you will be doing. If you will be doing heavy towing, carrying a lot of other heavy equipment then you would probably (preferably) step up to a 3/4 ton truck/SUV.

As for the trailer... I am using a 16', 7000# gvw car/equipment trailer which is the smallest that I would go with. I was actually looking for an 18' 7000# trailer but got a deal on the 16'. There are a lot of personal preferences when it comes to trailers but I think most will agree that brakes on both axles are a most. Some will suggest a steel deck (downside slippery when wet), mine is a wood deck (more maintenance, and not as convienent to haul dirt or gravel), dove tail vs flat (ease of loading), Tilt vs no-tilt (ease of loading), removable ramps vs tilt up ramps, under bed axles (keeps width to a minimum), and many more personal preferences. Listen to all of the pros and cons of each and decide as for what your needs are based on needs and price restriction.

Note: If you go with a 1/2 ton and some 3/4 ton truck you will need to invest in a weight distributing hitch. This will help with sway issues on any truck and is needed on all 1/2 tons for proper weight distribution.

Kurt

 

[RedDog]

Well ChasK I'm going to go against the trend here, unless you are wealthy. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Are you planning to purchase a new truck and trailer?

I would definitely get a tandem axle trailer with brakes on both axles. Do not mess with the one axle brake trailers. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif That is just a manufactures way of cutting corners!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif


I think any of the Big 3 (Dodge, Ford, and GM) make 1/2 tons more than capable of hauling that load. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I wonder what I need to tow my tractor with loader, boxblade, and 12' Bushhog?? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

RedDog