Traction Traction with/without Chains

[wolc123]

Just to set the record straight, Ag tires are best in snow, R4's second best, and Turfs provide the least traction in snow.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Also, that really shocks me that ag tires don't do better in snow. I would have them them to be great for snow. Maybe only great for real packable snow.

You hit it there. Packable is better with R1s. Otherwise they claw down to the bottom and go anyway. The inherent larger diameter helps too. Iv never noted a problem with 5' dia tires on any snow around here. They work fine on snow on gravel. I dont plow tho. I use a snowthrower.
larry

 

[KarlJD3520]

I have an extremely long drive, blacktop, with two steep sections which can ice up. I have used a 1070 with front mounted blower and switched last year to a 3520 (cab) which I also run a front blower on. The 1070 had Ag tires and the 3520 has the R4. Up here, we get lake effect snow with average 9ft-16ft per season, and frequent storms that can dump 14-30 inches in 24-36hrs. Drifting, of course, makes for deeper sections.

I used to run a spreader on the back of the 1070 for increase weight and tried last year no added weight on the 3520 cab. (the cab adds 670lbs to the back). Both had no problems with 4 wheel drive on the level. Both had traction problems with the blower down in float going up steep sections when ice/ packed snow was present. Raising the blowers weighted the front wheels and mostly allowed the tractors to get to the top and then blow again coming down. Both sometimes required a bit of a running start and some momentum to get up and had traction problems.

This year, I'm exploring running chains and pricing them out now, and will add the ballast box, but expect to run out of front end traction first with the blower in float and will have to lift it to weigh the front wheels.

If the gravel surface you are working is level, you should have plenty of traction with a 4WD tractor/Ags without chains with rear weight such as a ballast box, and you can add wheel weights as needed. Raising the FEL will load the front tires when needed. If you have any packed snow and ice, and a slope, you will need chains or studs.

 

[DuaneW]

Ok WOLC123, I have to answer you on youre ASSesment of the r1 ag tire. Would love to see some facts to back up your opinions. Problem is, you wont find them. Ever notice that really good snow tires do NOT look like mud tires, ever wonder why? How about even wondering about siping tires, and why does that work? A good 'SNOW' tire will have lots of little edges built into the tread pattern, siping a tire adds to these little edges. All of the little edges INCREASE the friction coeffiecient to give better traction, big solid blocks simply pack the snow and make ice when the tire spins. Some tirf tires would do excellent in snow, some (ie the diamond block tread pattern) would to TERRIBLE also. All this assumes you are running on cement/asphault, if you are rough terrain, then the condition of the terrain will dictate what tire you need. Snow on ground does not always equal frozen ground and anything other than a r1 will fill up quickly with mud and packed snow... see where this is going... depends on use and conditions. Least favorable tire to me would be the R4 for snow, not a good tire in mud and really packs snow into ice quickly.

All of this is my opinion and my opinion only, and is based on years (35+) of experience on operating tractors and heavy equipment.

DuaneW.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Ok WOLC123, I have to answer you on youre ASSesment of the r1 ag tire. Would love to see some facts to back up your opinions. Problem is, you wont find them. Ever notice that really good snow tires do NOT look like mud tires, ever wonder why? How about even wondering about siping tires, and why does that work? A good 'SNOW' tire will have lots of little edges built into the tread pattern, siping a tire adds to these little edges. All of the little edges INCREASE the friction coeffiecient to give better traction, big solid blocks simply pack the snow and make ice when the tire spins. Some tirf tires would do excellent in snow, some (ie the diamond block tread pattern) would to TERRIBLE also. All this assumes you are running on cement/asphault, if you are rough terrain, then the condition of the terrain will dictate what tire you need. Snow on ground does not always equal frozen ground and anything other than a r1 will fill up quickly with mud and packed snow... see where this is going... depends on use and conditions. Least favorable tire to me would be the R4 for snow, not a good tire in mud and really packs snow into ice quickly.

All of this is my opinion and my opinion only, and is based on years (35+) of experience on operating tractors and heavy equipment.

DuaneW.

If I were going to try to get somewhere thru deep snow on any surface I would choose Ags. However, in many cases I would not choose Ags to plow snow, and if I did the plow would be behind. The less aggressive tread tires work well on shallow/pre-plowed snow over a paved surface - the Ags do not. In such cases the former tires busy tread can get traction by making many shallow tracks in the snow which serve as mechanical interlocks. The ag tread suffers in this condition. On gravel where theres more to grab and you want to stay a few inches off the surface the ags will outdo the others even with a front plow. It occurs to me that the traction comparison is being biased toward conditions suitable for cars. That doesnt equate to which tire is actually better in the snow.

larry​

 

[jcmseven]

Glenn,

I have not read all the responses you have received, but I can say although we do not get as much snow volume, the conditions in which I plow are very challenging and I use a 3720 JD. If you can get them and have the time to mount them, get the chains. There is no tire; no tire which would equal the traction of chains. To me, like anything else, there is plowing and plowing well. Sure, you could get by without, but with the small investment you could be much quicker and more productive regardless of conditions. I have tried the additional weight strategy, but no amount of weight I added made as much difference as the chains did.

John M

 

[Wildbill34]

I get about the same amount of snow here. I have yet to use chains in 4 years with r4 tires. However, I did notice that if I was trying to stay ahead of the snow and was blowing the driveway (all paved and about 500') while it was still snowing I would slide. I have a pretty good incline to the garage pad and was slide back down backwards. Was stuck to the seat as I thought I was going to hit the snow blower on the RR ties. Needless to say, I wait until the snow event is done then use the blower going down the hill and not as much going up. Secondly, I was not using the ballast box at the time. I have much more agressive tires on it now and will be using the ballast box this year. We'll see how it goes this year.

 

[deere755]

I personally hate chains. They are a big help in icy conditions. They really can scuff up a concrete or asphalt driveway if you start spinning. I had one come loose several years ago when I was spinning and ended up replacing a fender as it beat the daylights out of before I could get it stopped. I have not used chains since. I have to work alittle harder a moving snow but it is worth it to me not having to worry about what chains are going to tear up.

 

[wolc123]

I use a rear blade to push snow. On my 4120 with R1's (rears loaded with calcium solution), I get very little if any wheel slip without chains even while pushing deep, wet, heavy, snow uphill. This machine is about twice as effective at pushing snow as my 8n ford was with chains on loaded rear R1's. Based on my experience I will say that 4wd makes a much bigger difference than chains. That 8n did tear up some blacktop when the wheels spun, while the unchained R1's on the 4120 do not hurt a thing. Give me a 4wd with loaded R1's any day for plowing, I do not believe there is a better combination. For pushing snow with a blade you need traction and weight much more than whith a blower. If you have a 2wd or even a 4wd with unloaded turfs then you would be a lot better off with a blower. Yes, you can add chains to the turfs or R4's to gain traction but blacktop repair will be necessary in the spring.

 

[jcmseven]

I feel this is true. Unfortunately, where I live, sliding equals potential death. We have 20-30% gradients at some places with sharp, tight turns and no shoulder. I do not care as much about damage, as most of my drive is gravel (not all) and I plow a neighborhood road for the plowing guy, who interestingly will not do it due to its steepness. I do not like chains either, they are a hassle to put on, can potentially damage the fenders and provide an awful ride. But, if you want ultimate traction in tough situations they are the pinnacle of this. Or--you could do what I did and buy an XUV Gator. With ITP Mudlites it will plow circles around any tractor I know, using less fuel. You would not believe the difference. I only wish it had PS and it would be perfect.

John M