Tractor age, value, finding the right tractor and deciding what's a good deal

[CaptainRedbeard]

Hey.

After creeping around this forum for the past few months, I figured it was finally time to maybe solicit some help in my tractor search. Sorry if I'm a little all over the place.

Bought a farm last summer with my wife; 80 acres in the Appalachian Mountains. 20 acres are fielded bottom land, 50ish are wooded hills/hillside, and about 10 are made up of a 15 foot creek that splits the property.

So. I'm looking for a machine. Goal is the maintain and beautify the property, which will consist of putting in some culverts, brush hogging, tree clearing, putting in fence, reinforcing some creek banks, grading some field, and removing rocks in areas (100-500lbs, probably). My wife's horses (two) will also probably move to the property sometime in the next couple years, and I'd like to use a small chunk of the field for some specialty forage for my family at some point (alfalfa? who knows. novice in that area).

I'd prefer to stay under $15,000. We have a baby, and we are rebuilding our savings after buying the property.

Concerns: I know that my budget will limit things. I'm mechanically inclined, but I've never owned my own tractor and assume it will take time to learn to properly fix/maintain a tractor.

So. How much do you consider age when buying something? I've been browsing for a long time, and it seems like some utility tractors hit a certain price point and remain static, regardless of hours and age. I feel like I need mfwd and a fel, but it seems like those two desires really push my prices up to the limits of my comfort range, even for tractors that are 25-45 years old.

Example: I'm looking at a Case-IH 885 that looks like good condition, but is it worth $15,000 or are the FEL and mfwd combination and a lack of supply pushing the price to that limit? There is a 1970ish International 844s that is significantly cheaper that checks those two boxes, but I'm worried that I'd find myself with a project tractor that I don't have enough experience to keep up repairs on. I guess I'm not sure what I should be weighing as "most important" as I sift through what is available.

 

[fried1765]

Hey.

After creeping around this forum for the past few months, I figured it was finally time to maybe solicit some help in my tractor search. Sorry if I'm a little all over the place.

Bought a farm last summer with my wife; 80 acres in the Appalachian Mountains. 20 acres are fielded bottom land, 50ish are wooded hills/hillside, and about 10 are made up of a 15 foot creek that splits the property.

So. I'm looking for a machine. Goal is the maintain and beautify the property, which will consist of putting in some culverts, brush hogging, tree clearing, putting in fence, reinforcing some creek banks, grading some field, and removing rocks in areas (100-500lbs, probably). My wife's horses (two) will also probably move to the property sometime in the next couple years, and I'd like to use a small chunk of the field for some specialty forage for my family at some point (alfalfa? who knows. novice in that area).

I'd prefer to stay under $15,000. We have a baby, and we are rebuilding our savings after buying the property.

Concerns: I know that my budget will limit things. I'm mechanically inclined, but I've never owned my own tractor and assume it will take time to learn to properly fix/maintain a tractor.

So. How much do you consider age when buying something? I've been browsing for a long time, and it seems like some utility tractors hit a certain price point and remain static, regardless of hours and age. I feel like I need mfwd and a fel, but it seems like those two desires really push my prices up to the limits of my comfort range, even for tractors that are 25-45 years old.

Example: I'm looking at a Case-IH 885 that looks like good condition, but is it worth $15,000 or are the FEL and mfwd combination and a lack of supply pushing the price to that limit? There is a 1970ish International 844s that is significantly cheaper that checks those two boxes, but I'm worried that I'd find myself with a project tractor that I don't have enough experience to keep up repairs on. I guess I'm not sure what I should be weighing as "most important" as I sift through what is available.

If you have the free time, and mechanical ability, in my opinion, the older tractors are the way to go.
I have a 68 year old Ford 8N (you do not want one).
A 1970 Ford 3400 TLB,
And..... a 1989 Ford 1920 FEL.
The 8N is in excellent condition ( I have not started it in 2 years) and I have restored the 3400 TLB and the 1920 FEL to like new condition.
Only the 1920 is 4WD.

I am long retired, so time is unimportant to me.

I VERY much like the idea of NOT having electronic gadgetry, or pollution control garbage.
I can FIX my tractors MYSELF!
I do not care how far away the nearest dealer lives.
The nice man in the big brown delivery truck will bring me any parts I might need.

An older tractor in good mechanical condition holds it's value very well, as you will learn when trying to buy one.
An older tractor will depreciate very little!

 

[jeff9366]

Tractors have brakes only on the rear wheels.

You need 4-WD on slopes for some semblance of front wheel tractor braking moving downhill, when tractor weight is mostly on the front wheels.

Without 4-WD a tractor runaway is a distinct possibility.



If you add your LOCATION to your T-B-N PROFILE, so it shows in every post you author, one of your respondents may clue you in on a good used tractor in your area. This happens fairly regularly.


VIDEO: How To Evaluate A Used Tractor - YouTube

 

[TheMadOne]

Without seeing the listing myself, a 80HP MFWD tractor with FEL for 15K sounds like a very good deal.

That was made in Case's Doncaster plant. Pretty much everything that left that line was quality, though I'm not that read up on the 885 specifically.

A quick google calls out that they use a dry clutch, so be aware of that. Apparently there was an issue with the brakes taking on air, there seems to be a fix for it, so make sure it was done, if possible.

Which trans does that one have? There were a few that tractor was built with. A regular syncro trans was an option, alongside a partial powershift and a shuttle. For FEL work you want the shuttle. For tillage you want the powershift.

As for how much I consiter age when buying a tractor...I don't. If I was in a financial situation where I could pay cash I'd gladly have a 4020 or other old chunk of iron. Not sure what I'd do with such a beast on my property, but I'd take one over a CUT any day. Sadly, I'm stuck needing payments for the next few years, so my little L3560 will have to do.

 

[jeff9366]

How much do you consider age when buying something?

Engine hours are the key metric. WELL MAINTAINED diesel engined tractors may run 10,000 engine hours before major work is required. However, you will replace multiple rubber/fabric hydraulic lines and hydraulic cylinders, pound out sheet metal dents, weld broken bits before 10,000 hours pass.

Age, in years, primarily important relative to parts availability.

Try to find a one owner, inside stored, 4-WD tractor with a dealer reasonably close.

 

[airbiscuit]

So, you could get a bigger tractor (60hp+) for all your needs, including fieldwork and haying (more expensive implements and less agile)
or
You could get a newer 35-50hp compact utility tractor - and let someone else do the haying on shares (less work and expense). It takes a little doing to grow alfalfa right.

If you gave us an idea of your location, TBNrs could give you an idea of your options.

 

[searcyfarms]

if that IH 885 is in descent shape descent hours/ loader and 4wd then you should be in good shape all around, they have been good tractors from what i know from people that have had them and treated them well

 

[newbury]

<snip>

Bought a farm last summer with my wife; 80 acres in the Appalachian Mountains. 20 acres are fielded bottom land, 50ish are wooded hills/hillside, and about 10 are made up of a 15 foot creek that splits the property. <snip>

The mountain range is mostly in the United States (U.S.) but it extends into southeastern Canada, forming a zone from 100 to 300 mi (160 to 480 km) wide, running from the island of Newfoundland 1,500 mi (2,400 km) southwestward to Central Alabama in the United States.[

Your talking about a wide range of conditions. I own about 73 acre near the northern end and 400 acres near the south. Quite a range of climate. The main thing is snowfall and cold. I've seen 3 feet overnight in Vermont, never more than 3 inches in Mississippi. I've seen 40 below in Vermont, nothing below 0F in Mississippi.

However for tractor selection I've a few questions - is the $15K for the tractor? What about associated costs - attachments, chains, tools to fix it, maybe a truck and trailer to move it, maybe a shed to store it in and work on it in?

I was in a similar situation - Just bought a house, w/ sheds and 73 acres in Mississippi in 2012. Needed a bigger tractor, SWMBO and I decided on a $15K target price. I felt I needed a tractor that would lift a ton on the back and 1,000 lbs on the front. I've moderate wrenching skills. After about 6 months of looking I found

a 1995 Kubota M4700, 50HP, MFWD, 1400 hours for $11.5K. I quickly spent the other 3.5 K on attachments.

So if you have moderate wrenching skills you should be able to get a suitable tractor and maintain it for your 15K. But it's probably going to take some looking.

 

[Professor Marvel]

If you have the free time, and mechanical ability, in my opinion, the older tractors are the way to go.
I have a 68 year old Ford 8N (you do not want one).
A 1970 Ford 3400 TLB,
And..... a 1989 Ford 1920 FEL.
The 8N is in excellent condition ( I have not started it in 2 years) and I have restored the 3400 TLB and the 1920 FEL to like new condition.
Only the 1920 is 4WD.

I am long retired, so time is unimportant to me.

I VERY much like the idea of NOT having electronic gadgetry, or pollution control garbage.
I can FIX my tractors MYSELF!
I do not care how far away the nearest dealer lives.
The nice man in the big brown delivery truck will bring me any parts I might need.

An older tractor in good mechanical condition holds it's value very well, as you will learn when trying to buy one.
An older tractor will depreciate very little!

YES THIS!!

 

[jaxs]

I advise hireing haying or better still,buy hay,require's too many empliments plus lots of knowledge/rxperience for diy. Hireing a pro with heavy equipment to get place in shape is a reasonable move and take's owning above 60 hp off the table. You say you are mechanically inclined,can you troubleshoot and repair automobiles built before 1975 without help/advice? I can,and all my machines are vintage BUT non are diesel. Basic troubleshooting diesel isn't bad but far more knowledge,experience and specialized tools are reforquired for repair than gasoline. Few owners can teardown their diesel engine. Paid for meals,beer and even overnight lodging for an experienced tractor gearhead going to look is worth 20 times what it cost's you. In view of the large % here owning tractors built overseas,I'll likely get flamed but
I'm convinced vintage domestic is by far better investment than newer foreign. To help you decide for yourself,look at for sale ads on NON_RUNNING tractors and note the number of each then consider how many were built.