Tractor electrical problem - please help

midwestbob2000 · Jun 14, 2004

O.K. my tractor is a Hinomoto C174 approx. a 1985 which I have now found is the same as an Allis Chalmers 5015 or a Deutz/Allis 5215. (I HAVE MANUALS ON THE WAY) I also have found that this tractor has a 12 volt system and not a 6 volt as I previously assumed.

I have been able to jump start the tractor by jumping directly from my car to the starter but if I run the jumper cables from my car to my tractor battery it will not jump start. (not evena click - just dead) I have check and cleaned the main battery cable terminals. I checked the battery cables and they look good however I have purchased new cables which I will install this weekend.

I have tried a new ignition switch which did not fix the problem.

I have found thru research that the recommended battery is 720 crank amps and 575 cold crank amps. However, I do not believe that this size battery will fit in the tractor as I have a U1 size battery area (small) currently with 360 crank amps and 300 cold crank amps. (Which is a stronger battery then what was in the tractor when I purchased it)

My turn signal lights which used to work no longer work. (The head lights do not work but never have worked) I have replaced all the fuses.

Please help, I am at a loss of what the problem could be. This is getting VERY frustrating!!!

MarkStewart · Jun 14, 2004

I would check your battery cables for tight connections. Also check the negative cable where it bolts to the frame, make sure that the connection there is clean by grinding metal there for good connection.

TWINKLE_TOES · Jun 14, 2004

Bob, I know nothing about your tractor but perhaps some of the safety interlocks may not be satisfied. Seat occupied, PTO disengaged, Clutch depressed, gear selector to neutral.

Maybe, jump your car battery to the tractor and sit in the tractor seat engage start switch and depress clutch, gear shift neutral, PTO disengaged. Wiggle all these about a bit including your butt and see if it starts.

Soundguy · Jun 14, 2004

Get a test light or VOM and "follow the volts".

You know the starter works.. and you know the battery ( new one right? ) check everything in between in the starter circuit. That's what? A key switch/ ignition switch and a solenoid?

Try the solenoid first.

You might also have a relay run off the ignition switch that provides 'accessory' power to everything else once the key is on.. this may be the source of loss of power to the lights.. etc.

Make some jumper wires, and test around switches..

Soundguy

Ozarker · Jun 21, 2004

Check the main power line to the start switch for voltage. There may be a fuseable link there that has failed.

midwestbob2000 · Jun 29, 2004

Hello, sorry for the delay in my follow-up post. I have fixed my tractor! First I want to thank everyone for their suggestions and comments. All helped me in some way or another. Some people suggested near about what the problem was but one person actually was EXACT as far as what was wrong. It was a suggestion that I cast aside as unrealistic.

Let me give a brief synopsis of my trouble shooting. Upon arriving at my farm, I first tried turning the key to find the tractor completely dead. I had fully charged the battery so I new this not to be the case so I got out my trusty voltage meter. Not really knowing how to use it I first tested the voltage on the battery. Once finding a setting that read 12 volts I set out to do some more testing. From the battery to the frame 12 volts with the key off but with the key in the on position, it read 2.34 volts. Didn¡¦t seem right, but I wasn¡¦t sure. So, I decided to concentrate on safety switches. After examination, the only one I found was the clutch safety switch which I bypassed but still no go. Next I decided to jump from the battery directly to the solenoid and neg. to frame. Wow, I got idiot lights and it started right up. Now we¡¦re getting some where. Next I used only the positive to the solenoid and disconnected the ground. Nope would not start. Next I disconnected the positive and left the neg. hookup to the frame and it started. Well, I had previously cleaned the terminals and sanded the frame were the neg. hooked up so I new now it had to be a bad cable which I replaced with a new battery cable I had brought with me. O.K. Time to start it up, but no it was completely dead. Hmm, after scratching my head I disconnected the neg. from where it was connected and ran it directly to the frame (It was bolted to a steel mount that was connected on one end to the frame and the other end to the radiator). Yup, the problem was solved by moving the ground to a different place on the frame. I don¡¦t understand because the old ground was working for months but that was definitely the problem.

Well I still have a problem with my lights but I will wait for some time before making my new post for helpƒº

Thanks Again!!
Jim

MarkStewart · Jul 2, 2004

I'm glad to hear you got your tractor running again. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I was curious to hear what the outcome was. I kinda hate it when people post a problem and don't do a follow up post of what the outcome of it was and they just disappear. Thanks for letting us know you got it resolved. Good luck.