Tractor for ditch digging ?

[hz293]

In looking at the pictures of a subsoiler and middlebuster, it brought up a question in my mind. Is there any reason that you could not make a middlebuster by replacing a box blade ripper with a longer shank and a ripper tip to get down deeper?

Harris

 

[bcarwell]

In looking at the pictures of a subsoiler and middlebuster, it brought up a question in my mind. Is there any reason that you could not make a middlebuster by replacing a box blade ripper with a longer shank and a ripper tip to get down deeper?

Harris

Harris,
Hmmm. I've got a box blade with rippers and am taking a welding class in a few weeks. Sure seems to me all you'd have to do is make a longer ripper and insert it in the pre-existing slot of your box blade and save the money of the redundant TPH. Maybe that'll be my first welding project.

Bob

 

[bcarwell]

Thanks to all who replied. I understand now. And the auto wire laying contraption is really nifty.

One thing did seem odd to me though. Particularly with the subsoiler (although from the pictures it seemed to be true of the potato digger as well) it seemed a universal problem was the tool would certainly dig as intended but wouldn't get the dirt out of the hole.

Sure seems like there is an opportunity for some creative home brewing here then. I can't imagine why one (me, maybe after the welding course I'm about to take) could not fashion some sort of tool dragged behind the subsoiler whose sole function was to get the dirt <out> of the hole.

Anybody know of such a thing ?

Farmer Bob

 

[patrick_g]

The box blade may likely not be engineered to take the forces generated buy a way over standard length tooth. Expensive to mess up the box blade to avoid buying a subsoiler. I have both the subsoiler and middle buster and they are the same implement with different blades bolted on. I bought the one (don't recall which) and just bought the other blade so in a few minutes I can swap from one to the other. I have toyed with an idea but not acted on it. That is to use the frame/3PH part and build my own blade. It would be designed to dig a trench . . .A N D . . . remove most or all of the loosened soil. I have mused over various configurations, including but not limited to:

1. a rectangular chute with a twist on the back side to deliver a continuous chip (forgive wood working term, I don't know what to call the dirt coming out) to the top of and to one side of the ditch.

2. I have considered just fabricating an accessory to go with the subsoiler blade as their blade is hardened and I would only have to work with mild steel. Basically a three sided chute with a twist in it to let the removed dirt be forced up and to one side above the surface.

I don't see why this would not work BUT I also don't see why if it is so easy they aren't being marketed by King Kutter or whoever. Likewise the cable layer/ tubing layer. If they are so easy to build then why aren't there a few competing brands out there of already built ones? One day, I'll just have to build some of these things to find out.

patrick_g

 

[texasjohn]

bcarwell, Austin soil is highly variable... from Houston Black Clay which is multiple feet deep and grows cotton to shallow calcareous soils that have rocks on the surface and really big rocks just under the surface. What you will be able to do all depends on the soil you are digging in. You say you are intrested in a 3 to 4 inch irrigation line... that's a pretty big line... I hope you have access to an extremely large and cheap source of water, otherwise there is no need to put in such a large line. A smaller line, say 1.5 inches or smaller can be pulled by the subsoiler (assumig you don't hit rocks) at one time for quite a ways when the soil moisture is right (not too wet or too dry). This avoids the need for removing soil from the ditch. As far as a freeze line... if you get the water line 6 inches deep, it won't freeze. There can be other reasons for digging it deeper, but that is clearly sufficient to avoid freezing in Austin. PM me or call to discuss how I have put in water and electric lines in the Jarrell area.

 

[DavidPerry]

The sub soiler is not supposed to remove the dirt from the narrow trench you cut. Think of a zipper. Pull it along to open a 2" trench for a very short time just long enough to lay conduit, pipe or wire in the ground. Then it closes back up and you barely notice you did anything.