Tractor storage - floor weight limit?

[redsox1]

Here's a question for you builder types... I am thinking of building a wood framed storage building (approx. 14'X28') and to keep cost down have considered putting frame onto blocks. This would raise the building up off the ground a short distance (maybe a foot or so) and eliminate the cost of frost wall and poured cement floor. I'd rather a cement floor but am trying to be economical. Do you think a raised wooden floor could support the weight of my compact TLB tractor? The weight being about 4800 pounds w/ FEL and BH. Another related question is doing the frost walls but skipping the poured floor and just having a dirt or stone floor. Any major disadvantages to this other than not being able to roll attatchments around on dollies?

 

[k0ua]

I have a Derkson Portable building that I store my L3400HST with LA463 loader with Loaded tires and my ballast barrel on the 3pt It has a wooden floor, and does not even flinch, creak or groan when I drive it in. Used if for about 3 years now. and over 1 year with the L3400HST. No damage.

James K0UA

 

[5030]

I keep my tractors, implements,and hay in a clear span storage master fabric covered engineered truss building with a graded on level sand floor and have for 5 years now with no problems. It's all about proper drainage.

Best $6000.00 I ever spent.

 

[Carl Bert]

Here's a question for you builder types... I am thinking of building a wood framed storage building (approx. 14'X28') and to keep cost down have considered putting frame onto blocks. This would raise the building up off the ground a short distance (maybe a foot or so) and eliminate the cost of frost wall and poured cement floor. I'd rather a cement floor but am trying to be economical. Do you think a raised wooden floor could support the weight of my compact TLB tractor? The weight being about 4800 pounds w/ FEL and BH. Another related question is doing the frost walls but skipping the poured floor and just having a dirt or stone floor. Any major disadvantages to this other than not being able to roll attatchments around on dollies?

It certainly can be done, but I personally would much rather a poured slab.

To start off you need to dig down 6 to 8 inches and fill with gravel and level. Lay 6x6 treated RR ties along the 28' sides of the shed, and 1 line down the middle. Frame the floor with PT 14' 2x12's spaced 1' on center. This way your longest span of unsupported 2x12 will only be 7'.

Use 3/4" ply to cover the floor. Make sure you run the grain opposite the floor joists. In other words, run the long side of the ply with the 28' side of the shed. 2 layers of ply, staggering the seams, would be even stronger.

Keep in mind between the 2x12 the 6x6 and the ply, you will now be about 19" off the ground.

My brother-in-law just did a pole barn with individual tubular footings. Then you can have just a dirt floor or gravel, and you can always decide to pour a slab at any time, which is what he did about 2 years later. I think this is your best bet, since it leaves your options open.

Look into the pole barns, the prices may surprise you. (in a good way). Good luck

 

[radioman]

I added a garage extension in back of my attached garage and put my walls on top of PT wood attached to posts in ground. I have a crushed stone floor and no problems for over 3 yrs. Only disavantage is going down on ground with knees to look at tractor is not nice to my kneecaps on the crushed stones, otherwise no problem.

 

[Danno1]

Any major disadvantages to this other than not being able to roll attatchments around on dollies?

How about moisture coming up through the ground? Looks like a good potential for rust on everything.


.

 

[RickB]

Here's a question for you builder types... I am thinking of building a wood framed storage building (approx. 14'X28') and to keep cost down have considered putting frame onto blocks. This would raise the building up off the ground a short distance (maybe a foot or so) and eliminate the cost of frost wall and poured cement floor. I'd rather a cement floor but am trying to be economical. Do you think a raised wooden floor could support the weight of my compact TLB tractor? The weight being about 4800 pounds w/ FEL and BH. Another related question is doing the frost walls but skipping the poured floor and just having a dirt or stone floor. Any major disadvantages to this other than not being able to roll attatchments around on dollies?

Central Mass? Frost will raise havoc with the building the first year. Each block or support will heave and settle a different amount.

 

[flusher]

With MA winters, I think I'd not waste time and money on the approach you're considering. I'd get a concrete slab poured with embedded anchor bolts to hold down the shed. You'll eventually regret going with that wooden floor approach.

 

[jfay]

You definitely should not put your building on blocks. The frost will cause it to heave and settle unevenly, making doors, windows, etc. go askew. If you want a wood floor, just support it on PT posts set at least four feet into the ground and you should be fine. You could also do a crushed stone floor, just put filter fabric down (over a sheet of plastic if you are worried about moisture) and cover with a few inches of crushed stone. Make a solid floor, just not one that is easy to work on.