Tractor weights compared to weight in specs

[screamin400]

Going out looking at trailers in the next few days. I am pretty sure a 7k is borderline but hoping it will work. I have a new Mahindra 2538 which has a spec weight of around 32-3300 pounds. I have a 1000 pound loader on it and about 800 pounds in the rear tires. Anyone ever weigh a tractor to see how close the weight is compared to advertised weight? These weights put me right at the max for a 7k trailer. I am thinking about taking it to get it weighed but it would be a hassle to get it to a scale. What have you folks found?

 

[oosik]

I've done an estimate of my tractor weight and then put it on the grain scales at the Archer-Daniels-Midland milling facility. I was about 300 pounds light in my estimate. The trouble with all this is the spec weight for my tractor was without loaded tires, FEL with grapple & 3-point implement. I had to use spec/calculated weights for all three of those weights also.

However - for my concerns, I guess my estimate would have been close enough. Surprisingly - starting with a spec weight of 4785 pounds for the tractor - the total package weighed 9690 pounds on the grain scales. The "total package" was - tractor, FEL w/grapple, rear tires loaded with Rimguard, and roll-over box blade on the 3-point.

 

[4570Man]

I'm betting it's pretty close. Is the published weight dry or with all fluids filled?

 

[arrow]

If you are concerned, it may be wise to move up to the 10K trailer. For not too much more money, you buy peace of mind (depending on what that is worth to you) and a bit more utility. There may come a day when you want to mount another implement to the tractor and just drive it on the trailer. Also, you get beefier tires with the 10K trailer. Could be advantageous to you in numerous ways.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would move up to a 10k trailer if buying new and make sure you have brakes on both axles. The small price difference will add a lot of peace of mind. The weight difference is minimal and won't make any difference to the pulling rig. I would also get one with a long enough floor that allows you to properly balance the tongue and axle loads. An 18 to 20 ft floor comes to mind, and would allow you to haul a longer implement such as a brush mower.

 

[stuckmotor]

Junk yards have scales.

 

[jeff9366]

Tractor specs are dry weight. That is the way tractors are shipped to dealers. You need to allow for fluids when estimating operating weight.

In some cases FEL weight includes the bucket, in other cases it does not, especially if multiple buckets are options.

 

[Zebrafive]

I would move up to a 10k trailer if buying new and make sure you have brakes on both axles. The small price difference will add a lot of peace of mind. The weight difference is minimal and won't make any difference to the pulling rig. I would also get one with a long enough floor that allows you to properly balance the tongue and axle loads. An 18 to 20 ft floor comes to mind, and would allow you to haul a longer implement such as a brush mower.

Ditto the move up 10K or even 14K. I went 14K since the spare from my truck would work in a pinch. Also ditto on brakes both axles. Some states require them. I bought 18' and should have bought longer. Next time!

 

[Midniteoyl]

My rule of thumb is - if I calculate that I will be ~75% or more of a trailers capacity, I move up to the next size trailer if I have the truck for the total weight.. If not, the load gets split between two trailers, or runs if there's only one truck/trailer. Bigger/more brake capacity is always a good thing. I've done the whole 'at max capacity' thing before and it was not very fun.. :ashamed:

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

I say go larger as well, but keep in mind truck takes 10-15% of the load.