Trail Root Removal

[TMR]

Good Morning...I have about 1-1.5 miles of trails of varying age. Some have little "extra" shoulder space with pine trees (and other trees) very close to the sides. The roots are generally pretty small...maybe 1-1.5" in diameter max.

The roots seem to surface over time and are not a positive for my lawn tractor deck/blades and spindles. Also a few rocks showing that should be dealt with soon.

My question is if I get a sub-compact or compact would a box blade be able to hock up the roots and just rip them out? Or would I end up bending or breaking something. In the regard...would a Kubota BX be much more likely to bend or break something as I try to pull roots out of the dirt? The roots are not too tough but as they are hooked up on a box blade "tooth" might that cause a problem? I assume the bigger the tractor and box blade the answer gets easier?

My primary choices are likely a BX or a B series Kubota.

Is there a better tool for say a Kubota BX than a box blade to pull out roots?

Thanks...TMR

 

[jmc]

On my property , the scarfiers would either pull up the end of the root without breaking it off, or break the root leaving at least one side of the break sticking up- making it worse, in either case.

If you had a bigger tractor you could mow with a rotary cutter that could be set high enough and wouldn't be damaged if you did hit something.

 

[TMR]

Perhaps a better way to word my question would be...what would be the best attachment to "rip" small roots out of my trail...realizing that once the root has been pretty well exposed and perhaps one end has broken off...I could then cut any remaining root off where it is still under the dirt.

My concern is not knowing what type of "pulling" pressure might end up bending a scarifier or another component of the tractor three point hitch? Also. is the Kubota BX much more likely to be at risk of bending a part than say a Kubota B series? BTW...the roots I am talking about are not very serious deep tree roots...just the kind that seem to follow the horizontal top layer of dirt.

Maybe a single point, center located, very sturdy "tooth" type implement might be a better bet? I think there is such an implement but can't place the name?? Actually, I think such a tool might also be helpful with some smaller, somewhat "aged" pine stumps?

Thanks...TMR

 

[jeff9366]

A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is what you need, not a Box Blade.

Ratchet Rake will allow you to grade after pulling roots. Used prudently, it will prize out 6" - 9" rocks.

Ratchet Rakes are available from the T-B-N Store, button at the top of this page. Delivery by FedEx.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

1) Also. is the Kubota BX much more likely to be at risk of bending a part than say a Kubota B series?

2) Maybe a single point, center located, very sturdy "tooth" type implement might be a better bet? I think there is such an implement but can't place the name?? Actually, I think such a tool might also be helpful with some smaller, somewhat "aged" pine stumps?

1) Unanswerable. A 1,400 pound (bare tractor) BX cannot exert as much strain on an implement as a 1,700 pound (bare tractor) 'B'. But you would buy one increment heavier implements for a 'B'.

Yes, the 'B' series is stronger. The additional 300 pounds is partly devoted to thicker steel.

2) Subsoiler. There is a great deal of difference between the quality steel used in subsoilers, buy one with a warranty/guarantee. Vet your potential subsoiler purchase here. Only buy a subsoiler with shear-bolt protection.

It takes a considerable amount tractor weight to pull a subsoiler through soil. You are highly unlikely to find either the BX nor B tractors satisfactory.

VIDEO: tractor subsoiler - YouTube

With 1.5 miles of trail your property must be fairly large.

Consider a Kubota L2501/HST, 2,600 pounds, (bare tractor) in lieu of the BX and B series. It will be satisfactory at the tasks you have outlined, the lighter Kubotas will not. L2501/HST is a STRONG little tractor.

VIDEO: kubota L2501 tractor - YouTube

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.

If/when you want to go 10" deep to pull roots and corms a spring-protected Field Cultivator is called for. You could likely pull three, possibly four shanks through MOIST soil with an L2501. You would want to do primary clearing with the Ratchet Rake, then follow with the Field Cultivator, which is a secondary tillage implement.

 

[TMR]

Thanks Jeff...for both of your posts. I think I am trying too hard to solve many problems with one "combo" tractor. I have pretty much decided to mow with something else and get a separate tractor w/o a mid-mount mower deck to mess with. Also, I think you are absolutely correct that I need more weight or I will find I either damage the tractor or can't use it for my land management tasks. L series may be the most appropriate weight level to start with. ****...that means new trailer and likely tow vehicle...oh well...current tow vehicle has 176K miles so it is time soon anyway. Thanks again...TMR

 

[jeff9366]

If you do not have too many obstacles to maneuver around when mowing turf, consider a tractor Three Point Hitch mounted Finish Mower. Cheaper than MMM. Much easier to mount/dismount.
Finish Mower does not impinge on ground clearance.

VIDEO: tractor finish mower - YouTube

VENDER: Iowa Farm Equipment -- Mowers: 3-Point, Pull-Type, Skid Steer, Rotary, Flail & Zero Turn

 

[jeff9366]

The roots are not too tough but as they are hooked up on a box blade "tooth" might that cause a problem?

Box Blade "points" are crimped on, providing a fail-safe function.

 

[mrmikey]

I made this scarifier for my tractor to clear out some alder roots and misc crap, I was worried that I might not have enough HP but it puled along easily. I made the teeth (1 3/8" dia bar)removable in case I couldn't move it

Rather that have to change back and forth to my backblade I added the grader blade in front that I can drop down to level out:

 

[MikeInEburg]

The BX series does not have adequate ground clearance for this type of task. B series would be minimum.