Traileing a 2N

[g42guy]

OK, I got a shot at a Ford 2N. Web sites have it weighing in at 2300-2500lbs.
I have a "single axle" trailer with 3500lb rating and a small SUV rated at 3500lb towing.
Now I know this may not be the best solution, but by the numbers it looks like it is within the limits. It is for one trip of about 225 miles.
Opinions???!!!!

 

[NCFERGY]

The warm and fuzzy feeling would be gone for me. I pull my ford 640 with fel with a full size truck and tandem trailer, and it is a load. Another thing to consider is the rear tires loaded on the n'ster? If so that will add 7 to 800 more lbs, which would put you way over your capabilities.
I would look for a friend with a tandem trailer and full size truck.
Good luck
Chris

 

[RobertN]

I would find another solution. Your 3500lb trailer probably has a capacity of maybe 2500lb(remember, the GVRW of the trailer INCLUDES the weight of the trailer itself, guessing at about 1000lb for trailer). So, there, your trailer is maxed out.

Does your trailer and tow vehicle have brakes set up? Try to stop that trailered tractor in a emergency with a lightweight SUV. No fun...

You may be within the limits, but barely. And, if you have no trailer brakes, well, I would not do it. I have, sad to say, towed without brakes while hauling my Kubota, which outfitted weighs about the same as the 2N. But, I did it with a 3/4 ton truck. Even then, it pushed the truck...I have full brakes on my trailer, with controller on the truck. I would never tow without trailer brakes again...

Check the "Hauling schedule" over on ytmag.com Maybe someone could haul it for you...

 

[F350Lawman]

IF you are going to do it make sure you do it off hours. trailering a marginal load in traffic is MUCH harder than on an empty road. That stopping and going gets old real quick especially if you have no trailer brakes as does the idiots cutting you and your load off.

I have done similar and I always made sure that I left plenty off braking space, went slow and had good safety chains. It sounds like your just under teh cutoff for by the book safety so I don't see why you CAN"T do it just drive accordingly.

It's up to you though, if you feel comfortable go for it if not don't. What is it they say, common sense is the better part of valor.

Oh... and leave the family at home so it's only yer' skin yer' riskin', that's how I'd do it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[s1120]

Now this "small SUV" what is it? If it is one of the small,unibody, carlike SUV's, run away. I would not tow more than a garden tractor with it. If it is a bigger one, like say a Exployer,s10 blazer etc, you probably have some room in the tow rating. Now for the traler, That single axle trailer with that tractor on it, is going to wag that SUV around like a dog with a toy. My roule of thum it to try to have the tower, almost as long as the towee.

 

[SteveM]

I have a 2n with loaded tires, and a Jeep Cherokee and Olds Bravada (blazer look a like) Both trucks are rated at 5,000lbs max, both have class III hitches.
Assuming you have a truck at least this heavy,

Here is what I suggest - go to U Haul and rent their car transporter. I pay approximately $49/day plus insurance for unlimited miles. Tell them you are moving a MODEL T ford. They do not allow tractors on their trailers (most are too heavy). You will need to bring 4 heavy chains or tension ratchet straps, and make certain to balance the load carefully by driving the N almost to the front of the trailer.

With this setup I have gone 5-6 hours in winding highways with no problem. The Uhaul trailers have hydr. brakes that work well if properly adjusted (!)

If by chance you have a smaller SUV like a Ford Escape, to not attempt this move. Your N will weigh about as much as the SUV, and things will get hairy fast. I know a guy who tried to move a 22' boat with a 2wd Ford Ranger. All was well until he got passed by a fast moving trailer truck. The buffet of wind got him swaying, and the softly sprung Ranger just added to the rocking- and the whole rig went careening off the highway in a tumble of metal and fiberglass....

Also, I would suggest always insuring a Uhaul rental - your car insurance will probably not cover you if something happens.

 

[pruntyc]

I agree with F350lawman, you can probably do it if you are very careful. Go slow and leave enough room to stop. A good idea that I have always used is to drive way ahead of where you are at. In other words, people often just look ahead a car or two, look farther ahead to see what is coming up, so you can react to it, before you have to. And as for the weight the trailer can carry, they leave them selves room, so you can be pretty sure, it will carry a little more. Same with the tow truck. I wouldn't do it all the time. But for a one time shot, I would do it, in like he said the off hours. Again like he said, that is just my opinion, you will have to make the final choice of what to do.

 

[Soundguy]

First.. if you 'suv' only has a tow rating of 3500 lbs.. then it must be a compact / small suv... Does it even have a class III receiver? or is it bumper or class 1/2 hitch?

I wouldn't want to pull with anything less than a class III hitch, and a tandem trailer.. for one, you would have to perfectly balance the tractor over the axle to get the right tounge weight... a strong wind or ahill/curve will change that.. coupled with your small tow vehicle.. you will probably experience alternating light front end/light rear end / fishtailing... pretty scarry. A 225 mile trip just doesn't sound fun that way. braking is another thing.. the breaks on an SUV not made to tow are going to be good enough to stop that suv.. not much else get something with electric brakes on at least one axle, and a decent controller... controllers can be had anywhere in the 40$ and up range. Get a good one.. don't risk your life / load on a cheapy controller... I paid 80 - 90 bucks for the ones I use in my 2 tow vehicles and feel real safe with them. One sign of whether your vehicle was really menat to tow or not will be the presence of a factor brake/tail light harness prewired under the das, and to the bumper area. This facilitates pluggin in the brake controller, etc.

Most newer full size trucks / suv's have them.. my dodge ram truck and yukon xl had them. Took 10 minutes to install a brake controller by plugging in the harness, and adding a fuse to the right spot under the hood. Took longer to mount the box to the dash than to do the electricals.. etc.

good luck and be safe. Sounds like a rental truck.. or a rental friend with a real truck.

Soundguy