Trailer advice for GC2310

Chris_in_CO · Aug 18, 2005

Hi all!

I live in northern Colorado and need to trailer my GC2310 into the mountains over old logging roads to get to my family's property to do some fun...I mean maintenance tasks.

I'll be pulling it with a 4wd SUV that can tow 5000 lbs - so far so good. I think the best trailer bed for the roads (narrow and lots of 1' high waterbumps) would be 5' x 12' so the tractor fits yet I'm not dragging the back of the trailer and I'm able to make the tight turns sometimes required without hitting trees. (If you would recommend another size please let me know)

My question is: what can you tell about your experience with the following options on your trailer?

- Dual axle 3500# capacity each versus single 5200# axle - the sales guy sez dual axles are easier to find the right load center on. What about front to back tipping?

- Spring axle versus torsional axles - sales guy sez spring axle much less forgiving on payload and tow vehicle that torsional with things like diagonal water bumps (those are those speed-bump like things to divert water from washing straight down the road) and also the occasional large rock that cause one wheel to go higher than the other and tip the load sideways

- single ramp gate versus 2 slide-out ramps

- welded D rings for tie down versus stake pockets

- anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm sure someone's already figured this out!

Chris

LarryRB · Aug 18, 2005

looks to me your sales guy is telling you straight. I would never pull a tractor, even a small one like yours, on a single axle trailer. Single gate type ramps don't hold up well, especially with a 2310 going on and off all the time. Check before you buy, here in New England all trailer axles must have brakes. I know some areas still allow brakes on one axle. Other than this, I think your salesman is telling you right.

Ronster · Aug 18, 2005

Chris, you might want to check out a tandem axle deck over trailer. A little narrower overall, high ground clearance , and enough weight capacity. Aluminum ( $$ ) would be nice for cutting down on the total weight of the rig.

67PLY · Aug 18, 2005

Most people buy a 14 x 6 or 16 x 6 - trailer. I don't know exact weight with FEL & BH. My book says around 1400#s for just the tractor. Looked at a 14 x 7 w/7000# GVW. Empty weight was 1300#s (steel tandem w/wood deck & brakes)

skivt · Aug 19, 2005

Agreed on the longer trailer. I have a 2300 and it fits OK on my 12' trailer. My friends 2300 only fits it I place the loader in front of the trailer but behind the hitch. This puts way too much weight in the front. Also make sure that the #3500 you list is the weight allowance after the weight of the trailer is removed.

PS - I agree with the dual axle over the single.

Good luck,

Skivt

Chris_in_CO · Aug 23, 2005

Thanks everyone for your advice.

I think the dual axle would be best and yet it's at least 8 weeks away and nearly $3000 - that puts us into snowtime in the Rockies and then I won't be able to do the work I need to do anyway /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Interesting that the dual axle also comes with a loading ramp versus the single axle (with beefier trailer and brakes, btw) having stowable ramps. Seems like the ramps would be sturdier.

Also these are both 5x12 trailers - the narrower width should help getting up those logging roads but I don't know if there would be any problem with lateral (side-to-side) stability.

Thanks again to everyone who answered - really appreciate the support and info.

Chris

skivt · Aug 23, 2005

Be sure to call at least 3 stores for prices and features. I am surprised that you cannot find them both with a ramp/gate. Also, $3000 sounds a bit high. If it helps, I paid $1,200 for my single axle in NH.

skivt

Chris_in_CO · Sep 17, 2005

As an update -

I ended up getting a dual-axle 7000# 6x12 trailer with stowable ramps. It's actually more of a car loader design - very beefy frame with only a front rail made here locally in Fort Collins.

I had to play with the loading position and found that backing on was the best as it presents only the backhoe arm instead of the FEL to the back of my Volvo. I bought load straps at a farm store and strap down each corner. When the guy brought the trailer by for me to load his truck lifted up 2-3 feet when I drove on - scared me silly at first. Now I have a short block of timber that I put below the back end of the trailer - much safer feeling. I also used some marking paint and marked the center line of all four wheels on the wood bed with bright orange paint so it's easy to know where to be on the trailer.

I drove up and replaced my parents' culverts in one day. The plastic culverts strapped on the trailer made it look like I had solid-rocket boosters on my GC2310 - take a look at the attached picture.

Thanks again for the advice and help!

MrSteve · Sep 17, 2005

Chris...

Maybe this will help, maybe not about your trailer rear going down when loading. A easy way to fix that and also a more permanent fix.

Get 2 swing away trailer jacks (what holds the trailer up when not on hitch) and bolt them to the rear outside ends of the trailer. Then all you will have to do is swing them down when loading and unloading, then back up when transporting... NOW your trailer will be stable has a 10 ton rock front and back when taking your machine on and off. They would even help if for some reason you would like to put the tractor (or wood, dirt, stuff and so on) on the trailer when it isn't hooked up to your truck.

EDIT... Here is what I am talking about...