Trailer Bearings?

[SCOOBY14B]

This is probably a dumb question for most of you guys, but for me I am stupid in this area.

I have a lawncare/ landscape business and currently use a 5X10 open trailer. I've had it for 4 years and pretty confident that the bearings need to be repacked. This trailer hasn't been used much at all until this year.

Can anyone give me a "how-to" on removing bearings, packing, etc? I don't have a press, so will I need to take anything to a shop, or is this something I can do at home? The axle is a 3500lb axle, no brakes, 15" wheels/tires. The axles have a small metal cap on the end...if that helps.

Hopefully this is the last full season for this trailer. Hoping to upgrade to a Horton 7X14 or 7X16 enclosed next year.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[Sandlot]

Try this one.

Servicing trailer bearings - 1

 

[Bird]

The link Sandlot provided gives the right information, but it sure can help if you have someone with experience with you the first time. That link mentions pulling the brake drum off, and of course if you don't have brakes, you pull the hub assembly. Then it tells you to pry the seal out of the back. There are a number of ways that can be done; some easier than others, most will severely damage the seal, although there is a way that is unlikely to damage it. However, those instructions mention installing a "new" seal. Personally, I always do use a new seal. If you can't read a parts number on the old one, many auto parts stores, such as NAPA can match them if you just take the old seal to them. And when it says to use a hammer to get the new seal in, that's right, but if you don't do it properly you'll damage the new seal. Repacking wheel bearings is a dirty, messy, but very simple job after you've done it once or twice.

 

[California]

That list is excellent. I'll add a couple of points I didn't see there -

As soon as you have the wheel off, put it under the trailer, and slide it over until it is under the axle. This is for safety. It will keep the trailer from going all the way to the ground if your jackstand slips.

Throwaway gloves are nice. Grease will weaken and break cheap latex gloves so wear two pair, or preferably get the more expensive nitrile (blue) gloves. Personally I use latex over nitrile and discard the latex ones after each project, since once they have grease on them they would rot before their next use.

 

[Dusty]

It is important to clean the old grease completely out of the hub and to carefully examine the old bearings. While you have the bearings and seals out, buy a spare set and keep it in the truck for the day that you need it on the road. Two bearings and a seal isn't a lot of money, but will be a life saver if you break down and can't find them locally. Buy a good grade of wheel bearing grease, and when you are finished, make sure that the wheels spin freely, but the bearings are properly seated. You will have to tighten the spindle nut and then loosen it a few times until you get the feel that you want. Always use a new cotter pin when you are done. One more thing, the spindle can have sharp edges, so be careful not to cut your hands and fingers. Once you do it the first time, you will wonder why everyone has all this advise for you. Dusty

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Scooby,
After you pull your assembly off and repack, you might think about Bearing Buddies ! I bought a set from Northern. They take the place of your dust cap and occassionally I give them a shot of grease ! Relatively inexpensive !

 

[SCOOBY14B]

Thanks for all the advise.

I remember helping someone do this about 10-15 years ago. I do remember when we were installing the new bearing and seal we used a block of wood to make sure everything was driven down even.

As for grease, I currently use Mobil 1 syn grease in everything I have.

Only thing that I'm not sure about is how to judge the "preload". I suppose that once I do it, I'll feel what I need.

THANKS!!

 

[Bird]

Only thing that I'm not sure about is how to judge the "preload". I suppose that once I do it, I'll feel what I need.

Yep. I guess I do it just a little differently than the instructions in that link. I'm usually turning, or spinning, the hub as I tighten the castle nut with pliers or wrench. I tighten it pretty snug; i.e., until the hub doesn't turn quite as freely, then back it off slowly until the hub spins freely again and the holes are lined up for the cotter pin. One last check, before installing the cotter pin, to make sure the hub cannot be pushed or pulled; i.e., cannot move in or out on the spindle. If so, tighten then back off the castle nut again.

 

[Iowachild]

Yep. I guess I do it just a little differently than the instructions in that link. I'm usually turning, or spinning, the hub as I tighten the castle nut with pliers or wrench. I tighten it pretty snug; i.e., until the hub doesn't turn quite as freely, then back it off slowly until the hub spins freely again and the holes are lined up for the cotter pin. One last check, before installing the cotter pin, to make sure the hub cannot be pushed or pulled; i.e., cannot move in or out on the spindle. If so, tighten then back off the castle nut again.

I have certainly had good luck with this method described by Bird!

 

[schmism]

i like a bit more preload on my bearings other than just hand tight. I judge proper preload based on the drag on the hub.

its a feel thing you learn with expeirence. (some might spec a spring tension) but i do it by feel.